I can’t get enough of old Caperdonich. Not only do they show very high standards (exceptions are very very rare), they’re also quite accessible and reasonably priced. The distillery was mothballed in 2002 but the stock of old casks still seems pretty large among independent bottlers (especially 1970′s Caperdonich).

Caperdonich 36 yo 1968 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice 2004, refill sherry)

Nose: the usual fruit basket is slightly less expressive here, it’s more a sherried fruitiness with waves of dried peaches and raisins. Blood orange. Warm oak. More herbal notes than expected (hints of eucalyptus, pine wood, rosemary). Quite some mint as well. Subtle hints of ashes and bread crust in the back. Even some peat shining through. Greater complexity than most 1970’s Caperdonich but oakier and less exhuberant fruits. Mouth: again quite a lot of woody and herbal notes, with a subdued fruitiness as a result. Toffee and raisins. Milk chocolate. Spicy honey. Pine resin. Yellow grapes and candied notes. Finish: dry and oaky, medium length.

Bottled at the right moment, before getting too oaky. It’s clear that 1968/1969 Caperdonich is different from the highly praised 1972 versions. Both periods are great, the older stuff being less tropical and more influenced by the oak. Still available – around € 125.

Score: 87/100