Mortlach 35 yo 1936 (43%, G&M Connoisseur’s Choice for Pinerolo Import 1972, 75 cl)

Nose: wow, very fragrant. The more ‘direct’ notes are those of old leather, coal smoke, prunes and library dust. There’s a sherried fruitiness, with fruit compote and plum jam, but it’s pushed aside by this lovely pre-war style of coals, herbs and oils. I couldn’t possibly mention everything, but I also noted eucalyptus, pine resin, fruit cake, camphor, tobacco, herbal liqueur, raspberry ganache, mint, cedar, caramelized sugar… All of this on a background of typical 1940′s-1950′s blend notes. Mouth: the first thing that struck me was “babelutte”, a kind of hard butter toffee typical for the Belgian coast. Quite spectacular. Then the other notes appear: smoke, wax, sultanas, almonds, mint, red fruit gums, Turkish delight… It keeps developing on toffee / mocha / chocolate notes, really great. Hardly any oak, hardly any bitter notes, no dryness whatsoever – rather perfect. Maybe a few metallic notes but very few considering it spent nearly 40 years in glass. Actually it’s an asset here. Finish: really long, with smoke and soft resin. Hints of tea as well.

It doesn’t require an elaborate conclusion to know this was exceptional. Pre-war whisky, from directly fired stills, with old-style sherry and smoke harmoniously mixed. Try to taste this kind of whisky before it’s gone forever! Value of the bottle: not sure, around € 1000? Heartfelt thanks Johannes.

Score: 95/100

Mortlach distillery uses stills of different forms and types, some of which are really uncommon and weird. They were never changed though, because the results were surprisingly good and complex.

Apart from a couple of Rare Malts versions and a 1971 vintage bottled in 2004, there is just one official release, a generally highly regarded 16 year old bottling in the Flora & Fauna range, although that one’s hard to find sometimes since there’s not much 16yo stock available. Most of the production is used for the Johnnie Walker Black label blend, which means it’s uncertain if and when there will be a single malt Mortlach again.

Mortlach 22 yo 1972 
(65,3%, Rare Malts 1995, 75cl.)

Nose: interestingly different. Grainy, with hints of freshly baked bread, and very waxy.  Something that reminds me of bee pollen. Some flowers. A bit buttery. Mashed potatoes. Yeast. Rather smokey for a Speysider. Complex and very nice. Mouth: rather dry at first. Flowery citrus and lots of nutty flavours. After a few seconds, it suddenly gets sweeter (honey) and a whole lot hotter. Develops on apricot jam, spices (nutmeg, pepper), honey. Great evolution. Finish on caramel and slightly nutty, smokey notes. Again quite grainy.

A good one. Certainly not the sherry bomb we now from the Fauna & Flora release. Multi-layered and very warming. Currently worth around € 350.

Score: 87/100

With 6 active distilleries (Mortlach being one of them, and the Glenfiddich / Balvenie / Kinivie group being the best known) in a town of merely 1200 people, Dufftown is said to be the whisky capital of Scotland.

Mortlach 12 yo 1998 (59,1%, Gordon & MacPhail Exclusive for Whisky Shop Dufftown 2010,
cask #14438)

Nose: instead of the expected sherry notes, the first things I get are herbal tea and lots of mint and pine needles. In my opinion, Mortlach is often blemished by sulphury off-notes (not from bad sherry casks, but probably due to to a lack of copper contact during distillation and/or the usage of worm tubs), but this one is (almost) clean, with nice raisins and fruit marmalade. Burnt sugar and hints of bread crust. Water highlights red fruits. Mouth: again an unusually mentholated profile. On a second level there is strawberry jam and chocolate coated nuts. Well spiced. Rounder and fruitier with a few drops of water. Still rather herbal. Finish: quite long, peppery with a repetition of the herbal sherry theme.

Considering the fact that I’m not a big fan of Mortlach, this is definitely enjoyable and rather unique.

Score: 83/100