BenRiach 32 yo 1978 (48%, OB for Asta Morris 2011, sherry hogshead #7037, 79 btl.)
Nose: very jammy, with big apricots and thick honey. Tropical fruits as well: mango, guava, clementine. Pineapple syrup. Faint camomile tea. Less citrusy than #7227, less complex and more direct as well, but really juicy and delicious. Mouth: again quite direct, with a nice coconut / banana combination and citrus (oranges and mandarin). Some “darker” elements like natural caramel – even hints of bread crust. Strawberries and cream. Light vanilla. This one doesn’t show the 1975/76 grapefruit in the end, but stays on warm, oak-infused flavours. Finish: lengthy, still fruity and full-bodied with soft spices.
It seems most people think of the 1975 as a slightly higher class than this 1978, but personally I think the difference is not that big. Different styles – both quite excellent. Around € 210. Now sold out.
This is one of the latest Karuizawa Noh releases, a 1977 from a single sherry cask released in 2010. I’m curious for the future – all remaining Karuizawa stocks have been bought by Number One Drinks, the UK distributor behind these Noh series.
Karuizawa 32 yo 1977
(60,7%, OB 2010, cask 4592, 190 btl.)
Nose: earthy and meaty. Roasted coffee. Incense. Charred steak. Very smoky for a Karuizawa. All of this mixed with a lovely sweetness of chocolate and black cherries. Precious spices like Szechuan and cardamom. Sandalwood and tobacco. Mouth: hot with big peppery notes. Quite sharp at first, then some dry walnuts and leather, sweeter caramel, dark chocolate and bags of cigar leafs. Lovely chocolate / cherry combo. Really great. Camphor, hints of tar even. Some liquorice. Wow. Finish: long and rich, spicy..
Another extreme Karuizawa. Interesting to see it shows a bigger and different kind of smokiness – not the usual matchstick notes from other bottlings. The savouriness is quite exceptional. With a slightly bigger fruitiness this would have been heavenly. Originally around € 170 – now sold for crazy amounts.
I’m always delighted when casks from rare distilleries find their way to the market. Glenburgie can be hard to find.
A sister cask #11242 was bottled last year by Duncan Taylor, but I couldn’t find it outside of Japan. This cask #11239 is available in Europe.
Glenburgie 22 yo 1988
(57,3%, Duncan Taylor Rare Auld 2011,
cask #11239, 233 btl.)
Nose: nice and sweet, with yellow orchard fruits (yellow plums, apple compote, quinces) and traces of tropical fruits (mango) and pineapple sweets. Some vanilla and faint nutty notes. Several kinds of honey. Mouth: very sweet again, with a nice vanilla / coconut combo, pineapple syrup, mango sweets… very jammy. Sweet almond paste. Some creamy mocha and toffee towards the end. Finish: long, sweet and sugary. Again traces of tropical fruits.
Quite a lovely Glenburgie, with a sweet profile that’s referring to grain whisky at times. The tropical fruitiness (which made me think of much older BenRiach) and vanilla makes it hugely drinkable and easy to enjoy. Excellent value for money – around € 75.
Caroni is a heavy-style rum made in Trinidad & Tobago. The distillery, which had been operating since 1918, was closed in 2002, which caused some of its large stocks to become available for independent bottlers. Bristol Spirits claims this cask (fully matured in charred barrels in the Caribbean) is among the oldest Trinidad rums ever bottled.
Caroni 34 yo 1974
(46%, Bristol Spirits 2009, 1500 btl.)
Nose: starts on those wonderful diesel- and tar-like aromas that you sometimes find in old rum. Baked apples. Burnt sugar. Sultanas. Grows more herbal and spicy (pepper, cinnamon) after a while. Some oak. Not immensely complex but quite intriguing. Mouth: again it reminds me of car workshops. More oak now, with a dryness and notes of liquorice. Definitely tarry. Quite herbal as well (cough syrup). Dried fruits in the background. Maybe some eucalyptus. Finish: long, dry, with the liquorice standing out. A faint rubbery hint in the very end. The dry glass shows lovely sultanas, more than while tasting it.
I find this quite amazing. By that I mean it’s uniquely disturbing (for someone used to whisky) rather than being immediately attractive. I can imagine some people will find this too weird as well. Around € 175. Thanks Jack.
Edinburgh-based grain distillery North British is usually found in older expressions (we’ve even had a 48 year-old). Here’s a medium aged single cask version bottled by Master of Malt.
North British 20 yo 1991 (55,8%, Master of Malt 2011, first fill bourbon, 244 btl.)
Nose: rather warm at first with plenty of vanilla and fresh oak shavings. Soft white chocolate / very light mocha notes in the background. Sweet and thick. After some time it seems to loose some of its vanilla creaminess and it gets a little sharper, with traces of grass and Nivea cream that I found before in much older North British. Mouth: very sweet and quite surprising. Big notes of Pisang Ambon (banana liqueur) and Malibu (coconut liqueur). Very thick and almost sticky. Sweet corn. Pineapple syrup. Butterscotch. A burst of pepper and ginger in the end. Finish: not too long, still extremely sweet with some spirity notes and an oaky / spicy edge.
This is not a complex grain whisky but it’s interesting as it lacks some typical grain flavours but also shows a few less common elements. Around € 52.
Michael Jackson called Tormore the most elegant distillery (architecturally speaking), but I don’t agree. It’s modern (built in 1958), slightly bombastic and it doesn’t fit my image of a distillery.
Anyway, the whisky is part of the Ballantine’s blend and there’s an official Tormore 12yo and a 15yo.
Tormore 10 yo ‘Pure malt 100%’
(43%, OB for Dreher Milano, around 1980, 75cl)
Nose: quite mild. Cereal notes with fruity bits. Red berries, oranges, pears. Heering cherry liqueur. Hints of malt and praline as well. Mouth: it seems bigger than 43% and balances between sweet notes and sourish / resinous elements. Apples with caramel sauce. Mint, cloves and bitter oranges. Nutty notes, with some sharpness in the aftertaste (like radish). Finish: a bit undefined, with hints of oak. Not too long.
This Tormore shows a great fruitiness on the nose. The palate is slightly less interesting but still full-flavoured. You’ll often read Tormore from this period seems more intense than you’d expect, which is a quality in its own right. Collector’s item.
Nose: all kinds of oil and wax: linseed oil, engine oil, brylcream… Rather dusty with hints of old libraries. Hints of vegetables, moss, wet fern forest. A little mint. Not bad but slightly uninspiring. Mouth: a watered down oak infusion, or so it seems. Quite tired I’m afraid. Cloves. Wax. Tobacco. Faint eucalyptus, but all of this is rather soft and quiet. Then developing some farmy notes and something bitter. Finish: bitter, dry, tannic and even a bit medicinal.
I expected a lot from a 1960’s Springbank but unfortunately this is not a highflyer. At first I thought the sample could be tainted, but then it turned out other reviewers mentioned the same disappointment. Oh well… Around € 300 if you happen to find a bottle.
I already highlighted this Port Ellen at the Wild West Whisky Fest last year. Now I had the chance to taste it in depth.
Port Ellen 26 yo 1983 (54,6%, Duncan Taylor Rarest of the Rare 2010, cask #674, 282 btl.)
Nose: hey! Even better than I remembered it. Relatively soft sooty and smokey notes with hints of cured meat. A bunch of sweet notes as well: chocolate ganache, praline and Black Forest gateau! Fruity cherry / mixed red fruits jam. Hints of tobacco with a very delicate medicinal touch. Warm precious wood like rosewood and sandalwood. Few of the sharp / austere notes that you find in other Port Ellen. When compared to Port Ellen PE1 for example, it becomes clear how extremely luscious this is. Just excellent. Mouth: sweet peat and ashes mixed with rounder notes again (cocoa, sweet almonds, berries, figs). A hint of peppermint. Slowly drying towards tobacco. Finish: very long, drier and a little peppery.
An extraordinary Port Ellen with an almost perfect sherried style. If you liked PE1, then you’ll love this. Around € 190. I’ve spent some time trying to find it, but it seems to be sold out.