Sullivan’s Cove is the first Australian whisky I’ve tried. This single malt is distilled by Tasmania Distillery using Tasmanian barley and pure rainforest water. The Double cask version is a marriage of one American oak barrel (ex-bourbon) and one French oak barrel (ex-Port wine). Both are also available as separate bottlings at 60% ABV.
Sullivan’s Cove Double Cask
(40%, OB 2010)
Nose: once it opens up, lovely sweet fruit appears (grapes, apple pie, gooseberry). Quite oily, with hints of scented candle wax and even hints of motor oil. Some cinnamon and subtle vanilla. White chocolate. Fresh wood chips and dusty cereals. Mouth: still quite an oily mouthfeel. Round, malty and fruity although the oak is a little heavy, with faint hints of varnish. A hint of leather. Not too complex. Finish: medium length, still heavy oak.
Sullivan’s Cove Double cask is a smooth single malt, but in today’s market it’s not exceptional. While the distillery claims this is their best so far, most reviewers seem to give higher scores to the other versions. The distillery definitely shows some promise. Around € 60.
Glenrothes (spelled Glen Rothes on some independent bottles like this one) has a big history in sherry maturation so it’s no surprise that this 1972 cask #12368 was a sherry butt. Based on the colour, I would say it was second or even third fill.
Nose: not so sure… On the one hand, there’s plenty of fruits (tangerine, banana) with honey, but on the other hand there’s a faint sulphury / rubbery smell that I don’t like (fortunately it’s almost gone after 20 minutes). Hints of roasted sesame and moss. Nutmeg. Old roses. Beeswax. Pine needles. A bit unusual but very complex. Mouth: quite a peppery attack. A lot of resinous oak and grapefruit. Tangerine again. Peppermint. Fades out on more gentle flavours like honeyed pastry. Finish: rather hot, spicy and fruity. Quite long and intense.
A highly expressive Glenrothes, but it takes some time before you discover its strengths. Better enjoyed neat. Still available in several stores. About € 165.
In 2005 some very old Ardbeg was accidently mixed with one fifth of 12 year-old Glen Moray. The result turned out to be very good, and it was bottled as Serendipity. Lady Luck is a similar vatting, this time made on purpose by independent vatting wizard John Glaser. It contains three casks:
Caol Ila 29yo 1980 cask #8165
Caol Ila 25yo 1984 cask #5384
Imperial 14yo 1995 cask #100049
Lady Luck (46%, Compass Box 2009,
Nose: elegant and gently ashy, like a fireplace that is cleaned the morning after. Some toffee, vanilla custard and sweet orange. Hints of cinnamon and cardamom. Coal and yellow apple. Nice to have the restrained Islay character together with the candied, fruity Imperial. Works really well. Mouth: oily mouthfeel. Peatier now with big tobacco notes. Again a nice sweetness but it’s mostly the Coal Ila talking. Quite briney and coastal with subtle lemon. Finish: long and dry on liquorice and olive juice.
After experiments such as Canto Cask, Compass Box is again proving that whisky doesn’t have to be single malt to be great. A bit expensive, but you do get old Coal Ila of course: about € 150.
The Ardbeg shop promises the Supernova 2010 edition to be deeper, stronger and earthier than the 2009 edition. Let’s see if the slightly higher ABV really makes it different. Be sure to compare with my Ardbeg Supernova review of 2009.
(60,1%, OB 2010)
Nose: it shares a lot of elements with the 2009 edition of course: oily peat, pepper, tobacco and a touch of citrus and apple. There are bigger notes of graphite and phenols / gouache paint in the 2009 edition. On the other hand Supernova 2010 seems to boast more sweet apple, grass and camomile (some call it soapy because of this, but I don’t really mind). I would say 2009 is rougher and 2010 is smoother and better balanced. Mouth: very earthy and grassy now, with wet hay. Slightly less peaty than the 2009, or so it seems. Very bitter coffee. Some salty notes. Big big liquorice. Lemon zest. A bit of menthol and anise towards the end. A bit sharp and bitter maybe. Finish: hot and quite sharp. Liquorice and dry pepper.
Ardbeg Supernova 2010 is very powerful. Deeper, stronger and earthier than last year? Well, not quite. On the nose, I was charmed by the balance of the new one, but on the palate the added harshness and bitterness push me towards the 2009 edition. In the end both are very similar, so there’s no reason to alter the score.
For what it’s worth, here’s a rough comparison. Mind that the differences are much more subtle than the plusses may indicate.
Bruichladdich is regularly producing whisky made of traceable barley, grown by 14 Islay farms. It is 100% organic and local malt, with the Optic variety having the largest share nowadays (together with 7 other varieties).
The distillery already jumped on this “terroir” wagon in 2004, when whisky was distilled from Chalice barley grown on the Kentraw farm, less than a mile from the distillery. For Feis Ile 2010, this first Islay grown whisky was released as a five year-old.
Note that using local barley was obviously very common in the past, so this Bruichladdich is more precisely the first “remake” of local Islay whisky in the past few decades.
Bruichladdich Islay barley 2004 (57,5%,
OB for Feis Ile 2010, fresh sherry butt #1667, 1060 btl.)
Nose: sweet and sour notes. Redcurrant, gooseberry… Rhubarb pie. Pêches Louis with brown sugar. There’s also a burnt element in the background and a winey overtone. Mouth: sweeter now, with notes of red candy and milk chocolate. Quite sour and sharp nonetheless. Roasted peanuts and bittersweet notes of caramel. A hint of soft pepper. Finish: warm and sweet.
A Bruichladdich with a big malty profile and highly acidic fruit notes. Not too bad but a nice marketing concept rather than a nice drinking whisky.
Glen Grant 30 yo 1979 (52,5%, Douglas Laing 2009, 60th Anniversary bottling, brandy butt – sherry finish, 282 btl.)
Nose: starts on notes of burnt sugar, smoke and honey. Bread crust. Caramelized apples. Slightly dusty. Chocolate. Cinnamon. Interesting but quite winey. Mouth: full and rather winey again. Sour apple cider, a sharp maltiness and a lot of oak. Tangy herbal elements (cough syrup, ginger). Sweet / sour combo, some cocoa. Gets very bitter in the end, rather difficult to enjoy. Finish: long, with liquorice and herbs.
I guess this cask was selected for its unusual maturation and equally unusual flavours. A shame really, I could think of a dozen other Glen Grants that are better suited to celebrate your anniversary. Around € 240.
Linkwood is part of the Diageo empire. Together with the surrounding distilleries in West Speyside, it holds an annual competition for spirit yield efficiency (litres of spirit per ton of malt), and Linkwood regularly wins it, together with Glen Elgin.
Although most of the production goes to Johnnie Walker and White Horse, independent single malt bottlings are fairly common as well. This 36 years old Linkwood 1973 was bottled for the 10th Anniversary of The Whisky Exchange in 2009.
Linkwood 36 yo 1973 (49,7%, The Whisky Exchange 10th Anniversary 2009, bourbon cask)
Nose: a delicious old Speysider, vibrant and utterly fruity. A vanilla infused fruit salad with ripe banana, some mango, dried apricots, papaya… Hints of good piña colada. A little polished oak. Pancakes (VIPS tortitas anyone?). Faint tobacco leafs and spices in the background. Really outstanding. Mouth: fruity again, some pineapple, orange and apricot but less abounding in vitality than on the nose. A more spicy kick with ginger, cinnamon and soft pepper. Oaky in a good way, giving it a lot of depth but not the dryness. Finish: long, growing more tannic and resinous now, although the fruitiness seems to go on and on.
Clearly the best Linkwood I’ve had so far. A stunning nose and overall on par with the lovely Clynelish TWE 10th Anniversary, although that one still has a slight edge in complexity for me. Around € 170, still available from TWE.