Before we move on with the BenRiach single casks, I’d like to draw your attention to a few other new releases. September / October tends to be an interesting period as bottlers present their new releases for the rest of the year. The festival season has started so there should be a chance to try them in the near future. Unless they are sold out by then…
The Whisky Agency has a new Anatomy series which features sketches of Leonardo on the labels. This is the line-up:
Inchgower 36 yo 1974 ex-sherry
(very citrusy with little sherry)
Glenlossie 35 yo 1975 ex-bourbon
Lochside 29 yo 1981 refill hogshead (quite a grainy nose and truckloads of citrus, mainly grapefruit)
Bowmore 15 yo 1995 ex-sherry
Reviews of the Bowmore and Glenlossie are coming up.
On top of this, there are new additions to the Perfect Dram VI series:
Linkwood 36 yo 1973 ex-bourbon
“A Speyside” 41 yo 1969 ex-bourbon (Glenfarclas?)
Glen Moray 36 yo 1973 ex-bourbon
Glen Elgin 35 yo 1975 ex-bourbon (review coming up)
It’s interesting to see a lot of joint bottlings and similar casks, a concept that has become very popular lately (more exposure, or a cheap way to have more limited releases?). The Lochside and Bowmore bottled by TWA are also available from Daily Dram which means you can buy the same whisky in different bottles. Note that their Bowmore is bottled at 46% whereas TWA bottles at cask strength. Although both are releasing a Linkwood 1973, there is no mention of co-operation so it’s probably just a similar cask.
I was able to try the last two recently (thanks Jeroen). The Banff is really good and highly recommended but the Clynelish didn’t seem to be on the same level as other Clynelish from the same year (this one was pretty sharp and mineral, I like them rounded with more vanilla). As far as I know, the LMdW versions are yet to be announced.
Conclusion? A lot of new and promising (premium) expressions to choose from, many of them with a label of your choice!
The BenRiach 1979 cask #7501 is one of four unfinished releases out of the ten single casks this year. It’s quite a rare vintage, as far as I know this is only the third single cask 1979.
BenRiach 30 yo 1979 (47,9%, OB 2010,
cask #7511, bourbon barrel, 173 btl.)
Nose: apple peel, ripe banana and rich honey. Then some tangerine and a big vanilla / cinnamon wave. A bit of toffee / natural caramel as well. Warm oak that’s well integrated, with whiffs of mint and nutmeg, and a faint leathery note. Overall a classic interplay of fruits and spices. Mouth: rich and fresh with honey, citrus and spices (mint, a little pepper and ginger). Vanilla and white chocolate. Unripe pineappple with coconut and a buttery / creamy note. Nutmeg and mint again. Finish: quite a lot of sweet oak, but enough fruit to counterbalance. Still some spices.
An vivid old BenRiach with all the typical elements you’d expect from a high quality Speyside distillery. Around € 190.
We’re not on the same level as Spain of course, but Belgium has quite a reputation in the field of food pairing and the molecular analysis of flavours and flavour combinations.
One of the key persons in this movement is Bernard Lahousse, a bio-engineer who runs a food consultancy company called Sense for Taste and organises The Flemish Primitives, a congress about new developments in gastronomy.
He also developed the Food pairing website where you can find a database of flavour molecules in ingredients and the combinations that go well with it.
Recently he has worked around wine & food pairing, but he also teamed up with Dave Broom to develop a new whisky wheel. While this was created primarily for the cocktail summit Bar.10, it’s still interesting for whisky lovers to have a look at it.
It’s based around the molecules in whisky, rather than the resulting taste. For instance you will find “mango” several times, depending on the different molecules causing this association. Great background knowledge, I would say.
There are two Virgin Oak releases (i.e. matured in new casks) in this year’s single casks from BenRiach. This one is a 1991 vintage which was finished in new American oak after the regular ex-bourbon maturation. The other one – a 1980 vintage – was fully matured in Virgin oak.
BenRiach 19 yo 1991 (54,9%, OB 2010, cask #4389, Virgin American Oak finish, 306 btl.)
Nose: nutmeg and orange peel. Tangerine. A few nutty notes and roasted grains. A little ginger, vanilla and heather. Hints of butter toffee and freshly sawn wood as well. No excessive oak though, since it’s only a finish. It seems to follow the BenRiach tradition, only spiced up a bit. Mouth: initially a sweet attack on fruitcake and toffee. Stewed fruits. Hazelnut paste. A lot of cinnamon and vanilla, with a peppery kick. Finish: dries out steadily with vanilla and warm oak.
This BenRiach is sweet and really spicy. It amplifies the classic Speyside character. Very punchy yet very drinkable. Around € 85.
Yesterday our friend Jeroen from The Bonding Dram organized an open bottle day presenting the new single cask series from BenRiach. They were bottled in July 2010 and they’re now available in most markets. Some of them have already sold out, especially the 1976 and 1980 are almost impossible to find.
This BenRiach 1984 is the only heavily peated release this time (the other 1984 seems to be peated as well, although it mentions “Classic Speyside style”). That same year already brought us a few enjoyable peated releases. A sister cask (BenRiach 1984 cask #4049) was bottled in 2007.
BenRiach 25 yo 1984 (51,7%, OB 2010, cask #4052, peated / Tawny Port finish,
Nose: rich, straightforward “Speyside” peat. It’s rounded, rich and smoky but not in the coastal / medicinal “Islay” way. Smoked tea with some resinous notes. After a while, a second layer shows up, with sweet oranges and a little grenadine. Faint hints of strawberry. Nice. A touch of eucalyptus / peppermint. Mouth: even more peat now, quite huge in fact. There’s a fruity edge but it seems to be drowned in the peat waves. Some resinous notes again. The spices are abundant: bags of pepper, a bit of nutmeg and getting really herbal in the end. Hints of liquorice. Finish: long, with a warm and peaty character.
This one is a little on the peaty side – it doesn’t feel like a 25 year-old and the fruits struggle to get the attention. I won’t say this often, but a little more wine influence could have helped to find a nicer balance on the palate. The nose is the best element for me. Around € 120.
Tamdhu has recently been mothballed. It was founded during the whisky boom of the late 19th century and was soon taken over by the Highland Distillers group (later Edrington), after a big fire in their Glenrothes distillery.
As a single malt, Tamdhu was most successful in the value segment. This is one of the reasons for its closure, as the other Edrington distilleries (Highland Park, Glenrothes, Macallan) are aiming a bit higher.
Nose: starts malty and very rubbery, with cereal grains and porridge. I can’t really appreciate this rubbery side, but it’s something I’ve come to expect from Tamdhu so it’s not a specific problem of this expression. After a few moments, it develops on fruit compote (apples, oranges) and big herbal notes (mint / verbena tea, ginger, a little nutmeg). Hints of pine resin and wax with a soapy edge. Mouth: in line with the nose: a fruity / malty centre with oranges, many pears, nutmeg and ginger. Pine wood and liquorice root. Quite herbal towards the finish. Finish: orange marmalade, a little dark chocolate and slightly bitter cloves.
I should probably add that I’ve rarely been impressed by a Tamdhu so far – it doesn’t seem to be my style. This 25 year-old is very expressive though, with a big emphasis on herbal notes and spices. Available from Whisky-Doris (Germany) for € 95.
Longmorn distilled in 1990 already surprised me once (Longmorn 1990/2005 by Berry Bros). After getting a nice review on Whiskyfun, this similar release in the Single Malts of Scotland series is now sold out.
Longmorn 19 yo 1990 (54,5%, Single Malts of Scotland 2009, cask #25003, 219 btl.)
Nose: immediately expressive, with big spicy notes on a background of slightly bubblegummy fruit. A lot of mint and nutmeg, some vanilla and eucalyptus. Kumquat. Apricot. Pencil shavings and sawdust. Floral notes as well. Quite modern in style – accessible but with a nice complexity. Mouth: clean, punchy and fruity, like a fruit liqueur, with hints of pear drops, very sugary barley and Frosties. Some honey. A little chlorophyl. Hints of moccha. Finish: long and malty, on sweet oak and icing sugar. A little mint again.
A punchy and modern Longmorn, with a creamy texture and fruity notes that made me think it was a couple of years younger. Nicely done. TWE now has a similar 1989 version on sale (around € 60).
Based on last year’s single cask series and the single cask for LMdW, 1972 seems to be a special year for GlenDronach, like 1976 for BenRiach. In the 2010 single cask series, GlenDronach bottled a sister cask (first GlenDronach 1972 cask #719, now #718). I hope to discover another gem.
GlenDronach 38 yo 1972 (51,5%,
OB 2010, Oloroso sherry butt #718,
Nose: wow, this is quite surprising. Plenty of fruits here, but not the obvious dried ones. There’s poached fruits (pears, yellow plums) but also overripe mango, blood orange, some passion fruit and notes that remind me of different sorts of fruit jelly (quince jelly, raspberry gums and cassis sweets). Some butter toffee. Faint hints of cardamom. It keeps developing. This is like a wicked genius: you don’t understand it completely, but you do realize that it has a special and totally intriguing character. Mouth: continues in the same direction, with slightly sour stewed fruits and soft vanilla, but slowly changes character to milk chocolate and all kinds of nuts (mainly walnuts and almonds). Oak as well, but less tannins than in the 1971 version. Finish: very long, slightly fruity but really dry with notes of walnut skin.
After the great reviews of last year’s 1972, this cask was highly anticipated. In my opinion it’s less flawless but slightly more unique. It’s different from cask #719 and certainly different from the rest of the series. I’m curious to know what happened in 1972 to achieve such outstanding casks? Around € 350.