Some of the titles that are given by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society are wonderfully accurate and witty at the same time. I wonder where the description “Smoked duck à l’orange” came from.
It’s a 17 year-old Highland Park bottled in 2001.
Highland Park 17 yo 1987
(51,3%, SMWS 2005, 4.102, 260 btl.)
Nose: curious combination of heather and flour. Hints of pineapple, mango and vanilla. Quite some wax. There’s indeed a lovely hint of orange candy, like the hard candy in the form of a mandarin slice. Mouth: roasted nuts, sugar coated almonds, mocha. Then mixing with fresher citrus notes. Toasted, sour yet quite sugary. Yellow plums. Also faint smoke. Finish: nicely candied, with oranges, a little liquorice and a hint of mint.
I guess the comparison with duck à l’orange lies in the roasted / orange combination. A slightly odd Highland Park. Around € 80 back then.
You probably won’t find many independent Isle of Jura bottlings in your local store. This 1990 single cask was bottled by Duncan Taylor last year, in their Rare Auld range.
Isle of Jura 18 yo 1990 (52,4%, Duncan Taylor 2009, cask #6401, 312 btl.)
Nose: a flintly / mineral profile, but much sweeter than the sharper flintiness as found in some Highlands whisky. Despite the sweetness it’s not really fruity (hints of citrus and apple candy maybe). Also a dusty maltiness with some soaked cereals and soft smoke. A little pepper. Not very sexy but interesting nonetheless. Mouth: develops on the same notes: first sweet notes (pear drops, ), then spicy malt and grains and finally a big wave of grassy and earthy notes. The grassy notes are rather sharp, rather bitter. Water highlights the sugary components. Finish: medium length, with a distinct leafy bitterness.
While the nose was quite positive, it took a nosedive in the palate and finish. Still available in some places. Around € 70.
The Glenrothes 1978 was the last release from the 1970’s vintages. In the past we’ve had vintages all years between 1970 and 1979 except for 1976. This 29 years old 1978 was chosen as the Best Speyside whisky in the 2008 World Whisky Awards.
(43%, OB 2008, 5600 btl.)
Nose: stewed fruits and apricot marmalade with dashes of honey. Less tropical than most 1968/69/70 Glenrothes, with much more beehive notes and a rather uncommon heathery note. Also intense spices (cinnamon, mint, aniseed, vanilla). Very light sherry influence (raisins, chocolate). Mouth: not the most powerful attack, but very balanced. We get sweet citrus fruits, plenty of honey again, some vanilla. This evolves into spicy fruit cake with a little ginger and liquorice. Is that a delicate whiff of smoke in the background? Finish: half sweet, half spicy. Quite long.
A sweet and spicy Speysider. When I opened this during a tasting with friends the other day, it was well received. Nonetheless most people prefered the Glenrothes 1970 by Dyncan Taylor. The 1978 is quite expensive: € 300 and more.
After the peated Kornog Taouarc’h Kentan and Kornog Taouarc’h Eilvet , let’s try the non-peated expression from the artisan distillery Glann Ar Mor in Bretagne, France. Contrary to the peated version, which uses malt from Scotland, this version uses French malt.
Taol Esa (which means “the try-out”) was first released in 2008, but I’ve tried the 2009 release. All of the Glann Ar Mor releases are limited and unfortunately hard to find.
Glann Ar Mor ‘Taol Esa’ – 1ãn Gwech (46%, OB 2009, second release December 09)
Nose: malty and very fruity, albeit a candied and slightly artificial kind of fruitiness (due to the young age I guess). Full of tinned pineapple, citrus, fragrant peaches and orange blossom. Guimauves. A lot of vanilla as well and hints of cinnamon and mint. Marzipan to round off, and a faint waxiness. Reminds me of the Our Angel bottling (Irish whiskey) Mouth: quite a sweet start again (banana, peach, apple) although it’s a little more spicy now (soft ginger, more cinnamon). Almonds. A little too grainy for my taste. Growing grassier towards the end. Finish: quite long, less sweet. Waxy and slightly resinous finale.
A curious young whisky which combines profiles of certain Irishwhiskey and some young Clynelish. Promising. Difficult to find.
This Glenglassaugh was distilled on the 5th of June 1967 and bottled on the same day in 1998. It was bottled by Signatory Vintage in the Silent Stills series. These bottles were nicely packaged with part of the barrel wood inside the box, as well as a miniature sampler.
As far as I know, there have been 5 batches of Silent Stills (1997 – 2001) and one batch for the USA. It’s a wonderful overview of distilleries that are sadly gone and the whole range is highly collectable. Note that Glenglassaugh was silent since 1986 but it has been revived in 2008.
This is another dram that I brought home from the great Lindores festival in Oostende. I had to fill samples because I had a cold and couldn’t taste anything at that moment.
Nose: an old, subtle nose. It balances between delicate fruity notes (citrus, gooseberries, tangerine), some hay and a faint minty / medicinal side. Some lemon balm. The fruitiness gets bigger with some hand warmth and mixes with a lovely dustiness – nice! Mouth: drier than expected, very much on grains and wood now, without many additional flavours that stand out. A bit of citrus zest. Faint vanilla. Getting grassier and slightly bitter / herbal over time. A tad waxy as well. Finish: citrus, grassy notes and a salty / coastal edge.
A delicate old Glenglassaugh. It owes the high score mostly to the wonderful nose.
Nose: fruity (peach, oranges) with a minty and leathery character. Hints of pollen and flowers. A little cardamom. Subtle Turkish delight. Not spectacular and maybe a little underpowered, but flawless. Mouth: sweet and fruity again. Grapefruit. Vanilla cake. Nutmeg. Getting drier over time and maybe slightly tannic. Finish: tannic and slightly bitterish. Medium long.
An enjoyable Tomatin with a slightly subdued fruitiness and a bitter tang.
This Ardbeg 1993 seems to be the first Ardbeg bottled by Duncan Taylor (let me know if you know another one).
Ardbeg 15 yo 1993 (58,9%, Duncan Taylor 2009, cask #1724, 292 btl.)
Nose: nice combo of heavy smoke notes and floral elements. Soot and coal with a few farmy notes (stronger when you add water). Heavy peat. Brunt heather. A few marine notes (brine, tarry rope). Rough like most official Ardbegs lately and a little mono-dimensional. Mouth: oily, very very peaty, dry and ashy. Sea brine and lemon. Rather grassy as well. An independent Supernova, so it seems. A little sweeter in the aftertaste, especially when you add water. Finish: long, peaty, fading on salty liquorice.
Intense Ardbeg. Recommended for those who liked the Supernova and are looking for a single cask variation on the theme. Don’t expect major complexity though. Around € 95 at the time. Now sold out.