This Mortlach 1998 is the first bottling by The Whisky Shop Dufftown, run by Mike Lord. It’s a refill sherry hogshead selected from the Gordon & MacPhail stocks.
With 6 active distilleries (Mortlach being one of them, and the Glenfiddich / Balvenie / Kinivie group being the best known) in a town of merely 1200 people, Dufftown is said to be the whisky capital of Scotland.
Mortlach 12 yo 1998 (59,1%, Gordon & MacPhail Exclusive for Whisky Shop Dufftown 2010,
Nose: instead of the expected sherry notes, the first things I get are herbal tea and lots of mint and pine needles. In my opinion, Mortlach is often blemished by sulphury off-notes (not from bad sherry casks, but probably due to to a lack of copper contact during distillation and/or the usage of worm tubs), but this one is (almost) clean, with nice raisins and fruit marmalade. Burnt sugar and hints of bread crust. Water highlights red fruits. Mouth: again an unusually mentholated profile. On a second level there is strawberry jam and chocolate coated nuts. Well spiced. Rounder and fruitier with a few drops of water. Still rather herbal. Finish: quite long, peppery with a repetition of the herbal sherry theme.
Considering the fact that I’m not a big fan of Mortlach, this is definitely enjoyable and rather unique.
The Arran Malt recently announced some revisions of its range. First of all, there’s this new Arran 14 Years old which will take the place of the 12yo as the oldest whisky in the core range. Then there’s a limited 15th Anniversary Edition and a consolidation of the finishing experiments in three wine finishes at 50% (Port, Amarone and Sauternes – pictured to the right).
Establishing a new distillery is a tough job and the 14 Years old can be seen as a milestone for Arran. They’re now able to provide products in a slightly higher market segment and they can start making profit. On the long-term plan, the core range would be consist of a 10, 14 and 18 year old.
The 14 Year Old was re-racked into fresh bourbon barrels and fresh sherry hogsheads two years ago – two-thirds into American oak and one-third into European oak. They wanted the classic Arran sweet-fruity notes to shine through with the sherry very much in the background for depth and balance.
Arran 14 yo (46%, OB 2010)
Nose: starts malty and clean but quickly there’s a burst of fresh fruits: citrus, peaches, caramelized apples, some melon and berries. Nice hints of buttercups in the background. Hints of sweet oak with whiffs of vanilla and coconut as well. Cleaner than the 12yo, very rounded and really nice. There’s a nice interplay between sherry and bourbon influence (reminiscent of the Arran Peacock). It doesn’t need water, but a few drops make the citrus stand out. Mouth: creamy attack, initially less sweet than I thought it would be. Also more oak than expected. Malty centre with hints of citrus and pears. Obvious vanilla. Developing more spicy notes towards the end, nutmeg and light pepper. Finish: medium length, slightly biscuity with barley sugar and lingering spices.
The Arran 14yo is a balanced dram with a natural profile. It takes the distillery character to a higher level, and I’m sure we can expect even nicer results from this distillery as their spirit matures further. Around € 45 and arriving in shops as we speak.
This story starts a few months ago, when Glenfarclas collector and connoisseur Luc Timmermans poured me a dram from a sample bottle and told me it would be the successor of his rather legendary Glenfarclas 1968 cask #699, bottled last year. Luc is following the 1968 casks (his birth year) for a long time and it was clear that he had found another Glenfarclas gem, albeit with a rather heavy sherry influence. The former cask was very sensual and silky and to appreciate this new one you really had to be a sherry lover. Still I was looking forward to the bottling date.
Then, a couple of weeks ago, I received four mystery samples with no further information. “One of them will be my next bottling”, Luc said, “I’m considering different options again, let me know what you think”. So I tasted them all and had two clear favourites.
Afterwards, it turned out to be a nifty selection (left to right in the picture):
The first sample had lots of chocolate truffle, dried figs, forest fruits, mint and walnuts. Very intense but not really subtle. It reminded me of the one I had tasted before and indeed, it was the same cask #702, a first fill Cream sherry hogshead (February 1968).
Sample n°2 clearly had a different maturation. It showed old roses, wax, precious wood and a whole range of herbs and spices (sage, thyme, cloves). This was just as intense but in another direction, with more obvious woody notes. It was drawn from cask #5240, a first fill Fino cask (which is not very common). Distilled December 1968.
The third sample was the most vivid one. It showed dried fruits as well as fresh red fruits, mixed with nice touches of oak polish and spices. After half an hour in the glass, this one really stood out. It was clearly the most balanced so far. Afterwards it turned out to be a vatting of the two others. One and one is three, no… four!
Finally there was a placebo: it was last year’s cask #699. I didn’t recognize it, but I discovered some new elements, which proves that it surely was a complex whisky.
No need to tell you that I preferred n°3 and n°4 in the blind tasting. Another great Glenfarclas was ready to be bottled!
The casks will be bottled as we speak, on this very day, and we can expect the bottles to be available soon. It’s great to see that Glenfarclas was willing to modify the official Family Cask label and blend in the hand-written style of the other Thosop bottlings. Very clever!
Glenfarclas 41 yo 1968 (49,7%, OB 2010 for Thosop, cask #702 & 5240, 318 btl.)
Nose: the sweeter sherry is easy to notice, but it shows much more layers. There’s a fresh layer of sweet fruits (mirabelles, redcurrant marmalade, lovely ripe tangerine and even raspberry jelly) and a darker layer of dried fruits (dates, raisins), chocolate and toffee. And a third layer of spices, oak polish, cigar boxes and some mint and eucalyptus. Just a hint of dusty oak and old leather book covers in the background. After some time it gets more playful, the fruits becomes bigger and the masculine side of the sherry makes place for a feminine softness and sweetness. A thrilling nose with awesome complexity. Mouth: a firm attack. There are woody notes, prunes, lots of dark chocolate and some cold coffee. A few notes that remind me of a meat sauce with wine (must be the mix of sherry with the herbal elements). A little mint and soft pepper. Fig and blackcurrant jam. A tad less wide than on the nose but really impressive at this age. Finish: long, drying, with lingering fruits.
In a way, this is like a richer, more powerful version of the official Glenfarclas 40yo: it shows different types of Glenfarclas style (with just two casks!), mixed together to create an even better result. Not nearly as elegant as last year’s cask #699, but just as good in its own style. Now let’s stop typing and simply enjoy…
Glenturret is a small distillery, part of the Edrington group and the spiritual home of the Famous Grouse blend. Apart from the markethouse 8 and 10 Years Old, single malt bottlings are scarce. Overall, the distillery doesn’t seem to have much fame.
This 1990 vintage was matured in German Oak (not sure what to expect).
Nose: notes of lemon and cake. Tinned fruits on syrup. Ginger lemonade. So far so good, but then there’s wet newspaper and disturbing notes of brown liquid soap. Once you’re focused, it’s hard to get over them. Mouth: lemon candy, with some sour orange moving in. A slightly bitter note of gin tonic with the same soapy bias again. A bit weird and not totally enjoyable. Finish: sharp and very short.
The fact that Glencraig has SMWS number 104 indicates that it’s a rare distillery. In fact it’s not even a real distillery, the name was used for the Lomond stills that were operating inside the Glenburgie distillery.
I’ve only been able to taste one Glencraig before, and interestingly it was from the same year: Glencraig 1974 (Duncan Taylor cask #2922). I still have that sample so I’m using it as a benchmark. This Scotch Malt Whisky Society bottling was tagged “Church incense in naughty dungeons”.
Glencraig 34 yo 1974
(50,5%, SMWS 2008, 104.9, 204 btl.)
Nose: certainly in the same vein as the other 1974. Very much on garden fruits. Flower blossoms, green apple and nice hints of wax. Light, grassy notes and some cereals. Quite oily. This one is a bit more expressive and more complex. Incense? Well, if you taste them side by side, then yes, there are hints of dusty cellars and churches, but it would be difficult to notice on its own. Mouth: close to the other one at first, but then growing sweeter and evolving on pink grapefruit, apple candy and spices from the oak. Cinnamon and liquorice. Finish: half fruity, half spicy. Quite long.
Compared to its Duncan Taylor sibling, this Glencraig 1974by SMWS is better across the board. It’s more complex on the nose and wider on the palate. Very pleasant whisky with a nice development. Two extra points. Worth around € 150 in auctions.
As you may know, one my favourite drams so far is a 30yo Brora 1976 by Douglas Laing. It goes without saying that I’m on the lookout for similar bottles. This is one of them, although 1981 is usually a lesser year than 1976 for the distillery. Like the other one, this sherry cask is released in the Old & Rare Platinum series of Douglas Laing, and there are just 93 bottles!
Brora 28 yo 1981 (57,4%,
Douglas Laing Old & Rare Platinum 2009, 93 bottles)
Nose: starts rather prickly and sharp. Wet dogs, leaves, drying hay, walnuts… A vegetal kind of farminess this time, no sheep involved… Anything but sweet, although this changes over time with some dried fruits, ginger ale and even coconut shining through. There’s also a Karuizawa kind of gunpowder, quite uncommon. Complex yet different from the 1970’s style. Gets more grassy with water, and it shows hints of tobacco. Mouth: again very vegetal, with leaves and sharp peat. Lemon balm. Hints of tobacco. Very herbal and grassy now. A lot less subtle than how I remember the 1976. When water is added, there’s wax to be found. Finish: long, on sharp peat and some pepper. Hints of gunpowder again.
This Brora is not as brilliant as its older brother, but it’s still excellent with a few unique touches. A bit too austere for me to get a higher score, but maybe you like this type of Brora more than I do. One problem: it’s around € 450 which I find quite hefty – the official Brora 30 yo’s are better value.
Last year, GlenDronach malt whisky selected a single cask and took it round Belgium in the back of a van! The Cask in a van tour proved so successful that they’re repeating it this year.
The current offering is a young GlenDronach 2002 vintage, which has been matured in a Bourbon barrel. I’m not sure if it’s going to prove as popular as the widely praised sherry casks… but let’s wait and see.
Want to fill your own bottle by hand, straight from the cask? Here’s the schedule:
Moonshine, white dog… new spirit is marketed in different ways and quickly becoming a product on its own. While age used to be an important indication of quality in whisky, nowadays it’s not a necessary element anymore to sell a spirit.
Georgia Moon is a Kentucky corn spirit with an ageing period of less than thirty days. “Guaranteed!” says the label – that’s a relief then. It’s “jarred” rather than bottled. There are peach and lemon flavoured versions as well.
Georgia Moon (40%)
Clear like vodka (no, the jar on the picture is not empty). Nose: liquid popcorn. Quite funny. Sweet sugared corn with a slightly sour overtone. Hints of Dutch “jenever” and a slightly flowery / plummy note. Peanuts also. Mouth: popcorn again. Peanut butter. Roasted corn. Highly diluted though, which makes it a bit bland. Whiskey lemonade, American style. Finish: what finish?
On this blog, we give high rates to what we appreciate as being good whisky. If anything, this is not good whisky. As a spirit drink, it’s more palatable than you may think, but very mono-dimensional. I think it has cocktail potential as well.