The undisclosed Master of Malt 30 years old was our favourite expression in the Master of Malt series so far. They also have a 40 years old version and even a 50 years old. They’re competitively priced considering their age, so let’s find out how they perform.
Undisclosed Speyside distillery 40 yo
(40%, Master of Malt 2008)
Nose: big notes of dates and dried figs. Oak polish. Sour notes of red fruits (redcurrant, raspberry) and tangerine. Hints of sherry vinegar that work quite well. There’s also a great nuttiness in the background. The whole is a bit sharp but very entertaining. I hope I can be just as vibrant at the age of 40. Impressive. Mouth: fruity start, good attack but the fruity notes can’t keep up very long. The oak comes rolling in and takes over the whole mouthfeel. Tannic and resinous. Again some notes of vinegar. Finish: long, nutty and fruity. The oak is less prominent. Hints of dark chocolate.
Good stuff but a malt of ups and downs. The nose is very nice, the palate is disturbed by the oak and in the finish the battle between fruit and wood seems to end in a draw. Around € 160.
Longmorn 37 yo 1972 (51,3%,
Whisky Agency & Three Rivers Tokyo 2010, Perfect Dram IV, 231 btl.)
Nose: superb refill sherry – it shares a lot of influences with the LMdW bottling, but it’s definitely more elegant. The fruity side is bigger (mostly tangerine, banana and mango) and there are more flowery notes (violets and rosewater with some dry flowers). Big hints of furniture polish and cake. More almonds. Rum & raisins. A delicate whiff of peppermint. The heavy sherry of the LMdW bottling made place for a more fragrant and more complex profile with a better balance. No smoke in this one. Water brings out more red fruit (lovely redcurrant) and amplifies the flowers. Really outstanding. Mouth: very rich with lots of red fruits but also apples and apricot marmalade. Leather. Hints of tea yet never dry. A bit of water makes it even more juicy with fresh figs and lush forest fruits. Finish: very long. The oak is easy to notice but it’s not nearly as invading as in the LMdW.
This Longmorn is exactly how I like my sherry bottlings! One of the best sherried whiskies I’ve come across lately, so “Perfect dram” may well be the truth! Around € 185, but sold out in most places. Too bad I didn’t discover it a bit earlier, because this is a jewel…
Gordon & MacPhail have provided La Maison du Whisky with a few remarkable Longmorn releases. In 2007 there was this Longmorn 1972 (cask #1088), followed in 2008 by a Longmorn 1964 (cask #1538) and a Longmorn 1969 in 2009 (cask #5295).
This Longmorn won a Gold medal in the 2006 Malt Maniacs Awards.
Longmorn 34 yo 1972 (45%, Gordon & MacPhail for LMdW 2006, cask #1088, 607 btl.)
Nose: obviously first fill sherry, but very fresh and lively. The usual raisins and dark chocolate are present, but there’s also fresh raspberry, apricot, banana and a few tropical notes. Gentle smoke. Really heavy sherry with beefy notes. A drop of water makes it slightly more herbal but it also amplifies the lush red fruits. Mouth: more smoke now, a few earthy notes and much more wood. Lots of kirsch and Mon Cherie. Moving to liquorice and almonds. Water adds bitter chocolate. Finish: more liquorice, plain salt and Ginjinha (Portuguese cherry liqueur). Long but a bit too dry and rather oaky.
A great Longmorn. The beefy nose and oaky finish will probably appeal to sherry lovers only, but it’s perfectly clean and pretty complex. Long gone.
I think this is the first Glenesk I’ve ever tried, they’re quite rare (I’ve tried a Hillside 1970 / 1996 Rare Malts though, which was distilled at the same distillery). Glenesk was closed in 1985 and dismantled in 1996, but it’s still operational as a maltings plant.
Glenesk 25 yo 1983 (55,7%, Duncan Taylor 2009, sherry cask #4931, 294 btl.)
Nose: very rubbery and huge notes of Maggi (herbal extract for making soup). Chicken stock. Dried peas. Muesli. Hay. Ferns? Very organic. A bit of sulphur as well. Water brings out hints of wet cardboard and other moist things. Mouth: pungent and very herbal. Lots of pine resin. Big pepper. Bitter orange peel. Espresso. Dark tea. Hints of salty butter. A few drops of water add chocolaty sherry notes, but not enough to really sparkle through. Finish: spicy, mashy and grassy.
I don’t think I’ve ever come across something like this. I’m not sure what to think of it. It’s quite harsh and certainly not my definition of an enjoyable dram. I hope one day I’ll find a Glenesk that I really like… Around € 110.
Lord of the Isles is a vatting of Ardbeg casks distilled in 1974, 1975 and 1976. It contains 15% sherry matured spirit and 85% ex-bourbon.
Ardbeg ‘Lord of the Isles’ 25 yo
(46%, OB 2007)
Nose: starts quite shy and mostly fruity. After being warmed up, it shows a remarkably gentle and elegant character. Very leathery, with mellow peat smoke, orange marmalade, yellow apples, marzipan, warm cake… Subtle hints of boat rope and tar. A light layer of earthy and farmy notes. Some tobacco. Overall very complex, very integrated and a masterpiece of balance. Jim Murray says there’s a light soapiness on the nose – I don’t agree, although there’s a noticeable floweriness. Mouth: still quite some fruits, a tad more tropical and sweeter than on the nose (lime). More peat and smoke now. Leather and tobacco again. Walnuts. Some spices (pink pepper). Lightly salted. Finish: long, drier, smoky and slightly medicinal. Hints of chalk.
An Ardbeg in the old style, a lot more refined than the modern stuff. Respect. It could have been truly heavenly at cask strength though. Still available in a few stores for around € 300.
There’s one thing I don’t like about the restyled The Nectar of the Daily Drams bottlings, the fact that they give us little information. The labels simply state the distillery, the age and the year of distillation / bottling. None of the recent bottlings include a cask number, the number of bottles available, the cask type or other information that in my opinion adds to the professionalism of a bottler.
This is a 25 years old Glen Elgin distilled in 1984. Did you know the Glen Elgin distillery was designed by an architect named Charles Cree Doig who designed a whopping 56 Scottish distilleries and co-designed a similar amount? He’s also the inventor of the pagoda roof.
Glen Elgin 25 yo 1984
(43,8%, Nectar of the Daily Drams 2010)
Nose: juicy and fruity in the great Speyside tradition, with quite some citrus and pear, peach and a dash of honey. There’s also a crisp spiciness and hints of heather and orange blossom. Soft wax as well. Malt and grains. Punchy enough despite the slightly lower strength (note that it’s probably still cask strength?). Mouth: starting fruity but not overly sweet, quickly getting drier and developing on a sourish wood / lemon skin combo. Citrus again (grapefruit rather than oranges). Hints of ginger and mint. Growing quite malty, oaky and salty, balanced by tangerine and a faint hint of smoke (or is that just imagination?). Finish: warm, malty and oaky with hints of cider apples.
A diverse Glen Elgin. The nose is definitely the part I like the most. Around € 95.
The Meliã Valencia is a splendid 5* hotel in a 35-floor building, the highest of the city. Located near the congress centre, it’s mostly business-oriented. The Podium Bar in the lobby is specalized in single malt whisky and offers the most interesting range in the city. When I visited it in 2010, it was still Hilton Valencia. I’m not sure about the current state of the bar, but it looks like they’re still serving a lot of malts.
Location: Avenida Cortes Valencianas 52 – 46015 Valencia (Spain) Range: +/- 40 single malts (menu available with good descriptions) Price: € 8 to € 34 (2cl – 4cl also available)
First of all, I’m not a beer connoisseur and I’m not planning to review beer on a regular basis. But I’m a gastronome with a few links to Spain, so whenever Ferran Adrià’s elBulli develops something new, I’m in the front row to try it. Moreover, this beer pretends to have a uniquely crafted character, so there are some parallels with whisky.
The Inedit beer was developed by elBulli and Spanish beer brewer Estrella Damm as the optimal beer to accompany food. As such it is a light, hazy “Celis white beer” served in a white wine glass and presented in a great 75cl design bottle.
Estrella Damm Inedit (4,8%, OB 2009)
Nose: very aromatic and quite fragrant for a beer. Huge notes of coriander seeds with layers of orange, tangerine and lemon. Malty with lots of added aromas, so it seems. Mouth: mild and fresh, very summery with a slight fizziness. A little flowery. Oranges again. Light peach. Finish: light spices with hints of liquorice.
Inedit is a clean beer with a nose that’s more interesting than the slightly boring palate. Good but nothing unique if you have access to a zillion beers here in Belgium. Indeed better with food where the light taste doesn’t mask the food flavours.
Around € 10 at restaurants.