The name ‘Beinn A’Chaolais’ comes from the narrow water channel between the island of Jura and Islay. This Jura Paps was finished in Bordeaux wine casks (Cabernet Sauvignon). This grape variety has a distinct aroma of green peppers or asparagus caused by the pyrazine molecules.
Jura Paps ‘Mountain of the Sound’
(46%, OB 2009, Cabernet Sauvignon finish, 1366 btl.)
Nose: very fruity again, but this one has a slightly nuttier / woodier profile. Hints of blackcurrant and cedar wood with almonds with whiffs of milk chocolate. Cantaloupe (hami melon). Cloves. Mouth: obvious red wine taste. Spicy taste. Orangettes (chocolate covered orange candy), toffee. Sweet and honeyed. Nutmeg towards the end. Finish: spicy cake aroma, nutmeg and chocolate again.
Isle of Jura really managed to get the wine finish right, which is not at all an obvious achievement. In general I’m not a big fan of wine finishes, but this is interesting. Around € 100.
The Jura Paps ‘Beinn Shiantaidh’ was finished in Barolo wine casks. The name of this peak is derived from local rumours that it hides the remains of the Lords of the Isles. Barolo is an Italian wine, one of many to claim the title “Wine of the Kings”. It is produced from the Nebbiolo grape and is known for its characteristic aromas of tar and roses.
Nose: fragrant and fruity. You certainly notice the grapes but they’re well integrated. Notes of red berries, tangerine and oranges. Pomegrenate. Lots of floral notes as well: rose water, honeysuckle, some lavender. Really elegant. Mouth: sweet. Slightly more wood influence now, and caramel (natural I guess). Toffee, still some berries and oranges covered in chocolate. Finish: sweet with some wood but still nicely balanced. Not too long though.
I like the nose very much. The typical Barolo aroma of rose petals works very well. Around € 100 which is too expensive though.
In June 2009, Jura Distillery launched a limited edition of 3 single malts inspired by the Paps of Jura mountains that dominate the skyline of the island.
The trio is 15 years old and finished in different types of wine casks.
Jura Paps ‘Beinn An Oir’ Mountain of Gold: Pinot Noir finish
Jura Paps ‘Beinn A’Chaolais’ Mountain of Sound: Cabernet Sauvignon
Jura Paps ‘Beinn Shiantaidh’ The Sacred Mountain: Barolo finish
Only 1366 bottles are released, signed by Master Distiller Willie Cochrane. If you buy the full set (€ 300), there is a fancy case that holds the three individual boxes. Stay tuned for reviews of the set.
A couple of weeks ago, I made a city trip to Valencia (Spain) and stayed in the Hilton Valencia (now Meliã Valencia). Their Podium bar had a decent range of +/- 40 single malt whiskies, the crown jewel being a Linkwood 1954 G&M (€ 58 for 4cl – quite outrageous but at least it’s excellent whisky – the others had a more reasonable price by the way). I decided to try a Millburn 1976, bottled by Gordon & MacPhail in their Connoisseurs Choice range.
Millburn distillery was originally know as “Inverness distillery” and was mothballed in 1985. In 1988, it was destroyed and the site now houses a restaurant. There was an original bottling in the Rare Malts series, and a few releases from independent bottlers. This Millburn 1976 is from a refill sherry butt.
Millburn 27yo 1976
(46%, Gordon & MacPhail 2004)
Nose: very rich. Starts rather perfumy on white peach, lavender and dried apricots. Develops some dusty notes over time (incense, old books). Some very light smoke in the background. Linseed oil. Quite complex. Mouth: malty start. Very spicy and peppery development, rather hot. Some peat smoke. Dry walnuts. Charred oak. Finish: sweet start with spices (nutmeg). Getting drier in the end (cloves, sherry wood).
Interesting stuff. Not perfect, but very complex and rewarding, especially on the nose. On the palate, it’s not really dynamic. Not available any more.
Redbreast is not a single malt, but pure pot still whiskey. It’s made from a mixture of both malted and unmalted barley. It’s not strictly a blend either, because the mixture is distilled at once instead of blending them afterwards. Although it’s typically Irish, nowadays the tradition is taken over by malt whiskey.
Redbreast 12y (40%, OB 2008)
Nose: creamy and fruity. Pear, banana and peach, with a layer of sweet honey. A bit of marzipan. Very rich vanilla pudding. Fresh cake and hints of sherry. Slightly waxy. Some red pepper in the distance. Mouth: oily mouth-feel, fruity again (cassis, strawberry). Coconut with peach. Gingery notes as well. Finish: growing spicier with hints of liquorice. Pears and honey. Quite some nutmeg, and a slightly winey aftertaste.
The nose is very attractive. On the palate it slows down a bit, but it’s still a very decent Irish whiskey at a great price.
This 12 year-old Talisker was bottled in 2007 but it re-appeared in some FOTCM stores a few weeks ago. It seems they didn’t manage to sell all of their bottles? This release was matured in European Oak.
Talisker 12yo (45,8%, OB 2007, for Friends of Classic Malts, 21.500 btl.)
Nose: unmistakably Talisker. Grilled notes, freshly baked bread. Some peat. Hints of sherry, a wee bit of sulphur maybe. Some spices, mostly pepper and chilli. Slightly maritime (sea-weed, oily fish). Mouth: in the same league as the standard Talisker 10yo, but sweeter at first. Honey. Spices and toasted notes. Sugar coated nuts. White pepper. Hints of mustard. Finish: getting more salty. Slightly peaty and smokey. Some sweet oak influence.
Compared to the standard Talisker 10yo, this one is a little less spicy with a more generous dash of honey. Creamy but not really worth the extra cash.
Tomatin is an active Speyside distillery founded in 1897. It had a period of rapid expansion during the 1960’s and was working at full capacity between 1975 and 1980. After bankrupcy in 1985, it is currently owned by a Japanese group.
This 31 year-old Tomatin was distilled in November 1976 and matured in a refill sherry cask.
Tomatin 31y 1976 (49,6%, Scotch Single Malt Circle 2008, cask #19085, 336 btl.)
Nose: ooh, honeyed and tropically fruity like old Speysiders (let’s say Glenrothes or Linkwood) or even old Bowmore can be. Exotic fruits: mango, pineapple, tangerine marmelade. Demerara sugar. Banana. Strawberry. Hints of cigar box and lavender. Slight waxy notes and silky vanilla. Just marvellous. Mouth: still very fruity (banana, apple, berries) but a lot more wood now. Hints of kirsch / rum. Resinous notes. Slightly tannic and sourish. Fading towards grapefruit. Finish: rather long, more wood, half fruity / half spicy with a faint bitterness. Even a salty edge (liquorice).
The nose of this Tomatin is tropical perfection, but on the palate there are a few less gentle (out of tune?) notes that counter-balance the overall fruitiness. A real treat anyway. Around € 155.