Based on last year’s single cask series and the single cask for LMdW, 1972 seems to be a special year for GlenDronach, like 1976 for BenRiach. In the 2010 single cask series, GlenDronach bottled a sister cask (first GlenDronach 1972 cask #719, now #718). I hope to discover another gem.
GlenDronach 38 yo 1972 (51,5%,
OB 2010, Oloroso sherry butt #718,
Nose: wow, this is quite surprising. Plenty of fruits here, but not the obvious dried ones. There’s poached fruits (pears, yellow plums) but also overripe mango, blood orange, some passion fruit and notes that remind me of different sorts of fruit jelly (quince jelly, raspberry gums and cassis sweets). Some butter toffee. Faint hints of cardamom. It keeps developing. This is like a wicked genius: you don’t understand it completely, but you do realize that it has a special and totally intriguing character. Mouth: continues in the same direction, with slightly sour stewed fruits and soft vanilla, but slowly changes character to milk chocolate and all kinds of nuts (mainly walnuts and almonds). Oak as well, but less tannins than in the 1971 version. Finish: very long, slightly fruity but really dry with notes of walnut skin.
After the great reviews of last year’s 1972, this cask was highly anticipated. In my opinion it’s less flawless but slightly more unique. It’s different from cask #719 and certainly different from the rest of the series. I’m curious to know what happened in 1972 to achieve such outstanding casks? Around € 350.
At the end of the 1960’s, GlenDronach distillery was expanded from two to four stills. When the new owners took over, there were only a few 1968 / 1969 casks among the 9000 casks maturing in the warehouses. It’s not yet clear what the plans are for those casks, so for now the 1971 releases are the oldest.
GlenDronach 39 yo 1971 (48,8%, OB 2010, Oloroso sherry butt #489, 541 btl.)
Nose: compared to the 1978, it’s clearly darker and more candied. Its smell of strawberry / raspberry ganache (chocolate cream used to fill pralines) reminds me of the workshops of the famous chocolatiers here in Belgium. Lovely cocoa really. Sugared nuts (hazelnuts, almonds). Fresh figs. Raisins. Milk chocolate mendiants. Oranges. A very light meatiness as well. Balanced hints of pine wood with a soft hint of smoke. Really good. Mouth: rich and mouth-coating with big hints of coffee and bitter-sweet notes of dark chocolate. Intense dried fruits. Walnut skin. Clear oak now, a little tannic maybe, but overall the wood is not too invasive. Finish: very long, heavily sherried and a little dry.
Like last year, the GlenDronach 1971 has a more classic profile than its 1972 sister. Perfect balance with all the flavours you’d expect.
An interesting cask but a bit overpriced.
Around € 370.
The younger GlenDronach single casks were able to meet last year’s high standard. Let’s move on and check on the 1970’s casks. The 1978, 1972 and 1971 are all matured in oloroso sherry.
GlenDronach 31 yo 1978 (51,2%, OB 2010, Oloroso sherry puncheon #3315, 522 btl.)
Nose: elegance is the keyword here. There’s a juicy fruitiness to start with: sour cherries, bramble, soft raspberry. Hints of apple cake as well. Superb freshness of Seville oranges and pink grapefruit. A little mint. Very lively with an incredible smoothness. Water doesn’t seem to work here, the nose is too subtle to survive. Mouth: rich and vibrant. Raspberries, tangerine, some chocolate. Orange peel. Again some undertones of mint. A bit of oak. This time water works nicely and brings out walnut flavours. Finish: long, a tad nuttier.
A very crisp GlenDronach, high on citrus notes. When compared to the older 1970’s releases, it misses a bit of punch. But of course this one is less expensive. Around € 200.
This GlenDronach 1989 cask 3315 is the second Pedro Ximénez expression.
PX grapes are dried in the sun instead of being pressed immediately. This transforms them into raisins with less liquid and more sugar. Alcohol needs to be added, otherwise the PX most won’t ferment. The end result is thick and sweet and full of flavour. Be sure to try a PX wine if you have the chance, it’s really unique.
GlenDronach 20 yo 1989 (53,2%, OB 2010, Pedro Ximenez sherry puncheon #3315, 522 btl.)
Nose: another clean sherry cask, this time much more fragrant with bigger hints of balsamic vinegar and syrup. Great leathery notes and something of oak polish / paint thinner (a great addition actually) which reminds me of some bourbons. Oranges, prunes and dates. Raspberries. Baked apple pie with rum & raisins. Pencil shavings. Very expressive, with more obvious wood influence than the 1991 cask. Water makes it lighter with fresh red berries. Mouth: really different! Dark and sweet – it’s easy to recognize the viscous character of Pedro Ximenez sherry. Raisins, chewy figs and caramelized sugar. Lots of nuts as well (hazelnuts, walnuts, roasted almonds, mocha). Deep and slightly overweight if you know what I mean. Finish: long on raisins, chocolate and mocha. Getting dry and slightly bitter in the end.
I’d recommend this one if you want to try something different. It’s quite massive and intense, just like the type of sherry it was matured in. Not for beginners I would say. Water helps to find the balance. Around € 100.
While last year they only released oloroso casks, the 2010 GlenDronach single casks also include two Pedro Ximenez puncheons (a cask size of at least 320 liters, bigger than hogsheads and smaller than butts).
I’ve tasted both head to head. Here are my impressions for the youngest cask, an 18 year old distilled in 1991.
GlenDronach 18 yo 1991 (51,7%,
OB 2010, Pedro Ximenez sherry puncheon #3182, 633 btl.)
Nose: gentle, clean sherry with juicy cooked fruits rather than the usual dried fruits. Pears and plums. Lots of orange peel. Barley sugars and cinnamon. Hints of dusty oak as well, rather unexpected considering its age. When compared to the 1989 PX cask, this one is nice and fruity but relatively shy. Mouth: goes on with stewed fruits but more classic sherry is taking over soon. Milk chocolate, dates and figs. Balanced oak influence. A nice wave of spices and nuts in the end (almonds, hazelnuts). Finish: medium length, slightly drier. Big hints of chocolate with a minty edge.
A clean sherried GlenDronach with nice fruity notes and chocolate. Balanced and quite flawless but not the most intense cask of the series. Around € 95.
This GlenDronach 1993 cask 529 is another oloroso version. It’s the youngest expression in this year’s single cask series.
GlenDronach 17 yo 1993 (60,5%, OB 2010, oloroso sherry butt #529, 627 btl.)
Nose: the first thing that struck me was rubber with hints of mushrooms and a sulphury note of fireworks. It’s similar to GlenDronach 15yo Revival in that respect, but less subtle. Also hints of walnuts and meat. On a second level there are hints of mint, cloves, parsley and wet earth with just a hint of sweet berries. A bit of water makes the red fruits stand out. Mouth: very sherried and very spicy with pepper, cloves and cinnamon. Still a bit beefy, earthy and dirty. Hints of dates. Very nice chocolate notes in the end. Again fruitier and more balanced (less spicy) with water. Finish: long with spices and hints of berries again.
Personally I don’t find this kind of nose very appealing, the sulphur is just too prominent for me (once you’ve nosed another vintage, this one really stands out… in a negative way). On the palate it was better but still not completely convincing. Around € 90. I’d save that money for one of the others.
Over the next couple of days, I’ll have a look at this year’s GlenDronach single casks. They’ve been bottled in June 2010 but they’re still not available in most countries other than the UK. I’ve thought about a suitable order and I decided to taste them in pairs. The first pair consists of the younger oloroso casks distilled in 1990 and 1993.
GlenDronach 20 yo 1990 (57,9%,
OB 2010, oloroso sherry butt #2621,
Nose: quite a fragrant kind of sherry. Hints of sweet honey and oak polish. Red mosto (grape juice) and sour oranges. After that, a very classy nuttiness starts to grow stronger (walnuts, some roasted coffee beans, almonds). Evolves on dark chocolate. There are undertones of matchsticks as well, but they’re actually quite nice and seem to come and go (with some water they simply disappear). Some mint. Hints of leather. Quite complex! Mouth: starts fruity (figs, dates) with hints of cherry liqueur. Again (clean) matchstick notes. Old oranges. Nice mocha and chocolate truffle. A few drops of water highlights walnuts and almonds. Finish: nice finale on coffee and nuts. Quite long.
This GlenDronach 1990 has multiple personalities. It shows a typical nutty sherry but also fresh fruits and hints of matchsticks that we associate with some Karuizawas. I like it, also because it’s interesting to play around with water. Around € 100.
Glen Grant 38 yo 1972 (52,4%, Whisky-Doris 2010, refill sherry cask #1650, 202 btl.)
Nose: this one is more expressive from the start. A nice honeyed fruitiness again but more dried fruits this time, with marmalade and syrup . The nutty element is slightly bigger, with coffee notes and caramel. Interestingly, the hints of new oak that I pick up make me think of old single grains while the mint / eucalyptus reminds me of certain bourbons. Very lively and entertaining. Water brings out a little vanilla. Mouth: more alcohol, more punch. It shows the same oranges, tangerines and yellow plums. Compared to the Thosop bottling, more spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, more pepper) and slightly less fruit. More balanced and more fruity with a little water. Finish: long, spicy with a hint of oak.
Another great Glen Grant. This one is slightly more oaky and spicy, which adds nice notes on the nose but also a certain dryness on the palate. Difficult to make a choice – I guess the higher strength is the main difference. Add a little water and they’re quite similar. Available from Whisky-Doris (€ 140).