This 20 years old Glen Garioch 1988 is my first review of a SMWS bottling. The Scotch Malt Whisky Society was founded in 1983 in order to promote whisky by bottling casks of nearly every distillery in Scotland. They’re all single casks at cask strength, and every bottling has a unique number (distillery code + bottling number).
19.44 is the 44th cask of Glen Garioch (distillery n°19) by SMWS.
Nose: sweet start with a winey touch. Rum / raisins. Dried apricots. Strawberries with white chocolate. Vanilla. The ‘old granddad’ should come from notes of tobacco and leather. The hints of pipe tobacco are certainly there but the leather is less detectable. Very nice overall, although there are also some savoury / herbal notes (cup-a-soup powder with whiffs of sweet mustard) that I found a bit distracting. Mouth: candied start, growing surprisingly floral. Lots of flowery notes, in the direction of lavender and geraniums (both of which I don’t like). A bit too close to perfumy notes for my taste. Lots of toffee. Again some tobacco. Finish: rather short with toffee and pine wood.
Quite an unusual dram. Strawberry notes are not very common and the combination with herbal notes is strange but interesting. I was a bit disappointed by the flowery profile on the palate. Around € 90.
The next Ardbeg is called Ardbeg Rollercoaster. I can’t say I really like the name, but as long as the whisky itself is good, I don’t mind.
Anyway this document listed a number of brand registrations owned by Moet Hennessy USA… Corryvreckan is there, Supernova is there, and Ardbeg Rollercoaster was registered just two months ago.
In the meantime, we already have some details. It’s made from one cask of each year between 1997 and 2006 and it will be launched on February 15 to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the committee. Price: around € 60.
Arran 1998 (56,5%, OB 2008, bourbon cask #700, 223 btl.)
Nose: clean and fruity. Vanilla with some honey. Yellow apples, pineapple and kiwi. Violet candy. Lemon marmalade. Very light oak influence. Sweet and very enjoyable. Mouth: good attack. Citrusy with hints of plums. Hints of cherry liqueur and peaches. A bit of lemon. Slightly spicy (ginger, pepper) with a bittery edge (liquorice?) towards the end. Finish: medium length, on creamy moccha and fruits with hints of saffron.
A solid Arran with a sweet vanilla nose. Not very complex but really drinkable.
Compared to the size of our country, Belgium has a surprisingly high number of (micro-)distilleries (mostly beer or gin distilleries making whisky as an experiment). Goldlys, produced by the gin / wodka / liqueur distillery Filliers was the first to mature Belgian whisky and it’s the only one able to market a standard 10 Year old and even older single casks.
Let’s be honest, most of the Belgian whiskies are curiosities hardly worth buying, but a couple of weeks ago, I received an e-mail from Bert Bruyneel telling me I would be surprised by this one!
Limousin is a French region around the city of Limoges. It’s not a great wine producing area but Limousin is well known for their oak barrels, used in other regions for maturing white wine.
Goldlys 1994 ‘Single cask Limousin’
(55%, OB 2009, 440 btl.)
Nose: starts on white wood glue but it gets better. The oak stays very present, but it is balanced by fruity notes (yellow apples, unripe banana). Burnt sugar. Vanilla. Some waxy notes. Nice but there’s something artificial that kind of spoils it for me. Mouth: certainly not as sweet as I would have expected. Very very resinous, is this liquid pine tree? Similar to some bourbons in that respect (Pappy Van Winkle 20 years old pops to mind). Herbal notes. Lots of spices (nutmeg, ginger and pepper). Some notes of burnt caramel as well. The fruit seems to be buried somewhere. Finish: rather short and dry, mostly the wood that’s talking.
My fellow reviewers really like this and there’s not a single bottle left in stores. Still I don’t really get the hype. Sure, it’s different and probably the best Belgian whisky to date, but when tasted blind I would say this is closer to a mediocre bourbon than to a quality Scotch. € 30.
Duncan Taylor is one of these independent bottlers with impressive stocks of superb old whisky. The last few years, they’ve released lots of high quality Caperdonich, Glenrothes, Strathisla, Bowmore, Glenlivet… all from the late 1960’s / beginning of the 1970’s.
Glen Grant from the beginning of the 1970’s can be outstanding. This one is 36 years old and bottled for the German Whisky Fair.
Glen Grant 36 yo 1972 (56,3%, Duncan Taylor 2009 for The Whisky Fair, sherry cask, 209 btl.)
Nose: an exotic fruit basket. Tangerine and kumquat followed by mango, fresh figs. Ripe gooseberries. Dried apricots. Superbly candied, with hints of honeysuckle. Whiffs of vanilla (crême patissiere). Not unlike a Bowmore from the late 1960’s. Very round and polished, but it’s not all fruity because there are subtle undertones of oak polish and coal smoke, even something that reminds me of gas. Mouth: still very fruity (lots of grapefruit now, tangerine, passion fruit, papaya). Much more wood than on the nose which gives it a drier, slightly bitter profile. Still really exotic. Cake with honey. Chocolate. Very refined sherry. Finish: medium length, on oak polish, tangerine and the lightest hint of mint.
Around € 150 at the time, but sold out soon after the publication of the Malt Maniacs Awards. Quite a lot of wood (not surprisingly) but very very good!
ps/ It’s safe to say all of the Malt Maniacs Gold medal winners are stunning whiskies (we didn’t think otherwise of course). This Glen Grant and the Yoichi are top of the bill for me, with the Yoichi being the nicest surprise. Also, these two turn out to be the cheapest of the pack. Woohoo!
In the 2009 series of GlenDronach single casks, the GlenDronach 1972 cask #719 was my favourite (in fact, it was one of the best bottlings I’ve tasted last year). A few months later, this sister cask #705 was bottled for La Maison du Whisky and won the Malt Maniacs award for Best Sherry Cask 2009 in the Ultra premium category.
It’s a 37 year-old, matured in an oloroso sherry butt.
GlenDronach 37 yo 1972 (53,3%, OB 2009 for LMdW, oloroso cask #705, 399 btl.)
Nose: pretty similar to the markethouse bottling. More red fruits (raspberry rather than blueberry / blackcurrant. Citrus as well (blood orange). Water brings out hints of exotic fruits (papaya, mango). Dark chocolate. Some toasted notes. Less oak polish than the OB. Less farmy notes, more the meaty kind of sherry. Ginger, pepper. The LMdW nose is great but compared directly with the OB, it is slightly less complex and less expressive. Mouth: still those very nice red fruits but they are almost drowned by big waves of resinous notes and mentholated oak. Chocolate coated oranges. Tobacco leaves. Getting quite tannic and dry with a salty hint of liquorice. Finish: woody and dry but very rich with notes of tangerine and milk chocolate.
I guess 1972 already is a legendary year for GlenDronach, in the same way BenRiach 1976 are all great. I prefer the original bottling though. Still available from La Maison du Whisky at around € 310.
Bunnahabhain with a dark sherry finish can be great. Last year we already tasted a similar cask, the rather excellent Bunnahabhain 1974 by The Whisky Agency. This one (bottled by Adelphi) is even darker, let’s see if it tastes different.
Nose: very meaty sherry. In fact, the first notes I got were of gravy with a “bouquet garni” (a classic mixture of herbs – rosemary and sage among others). Hints of mushrooms. Soy sauce. Quite peculiar but nice, and if you like old, slightly musty sherry, this is excellent. Prunes as well. Some chocolate coated marzipan. Mouth: rich and mouth-coating. Slightly prickly and mentholated at full strength. Cinnamon. Kirsch. Demerara sugar. Drying towards very dark chocolate and liquorice. Water brings out traces of smoke. Finish: long and slightly grapey. Very much on coffee and cocoa.
This Bunnahabhain is an impressive sherry bottling with various savoury and herbal notes on top of the usual deep fruity notes. Unique but rather expensive (€ 300),