30 Nov: As you probably know, we can expect the results of this year’s Malt Maniacs Awards any moment now.
There are 7 gold, 64 silver and almost a hundred bronze medals. The gold medals are 3 Japanese whiskies (well well), 3 old Speysiders and one old Islay malt. We’ll discuss it further as soon as we get the votes from the jury!
1 Dec update: indeed, the Karuizawa 1972 did receive the Non-Plus-Ultra Award with the BenRiach 1976 cask 3558 getting the Best Natural Cask Award. Too bad I forgot to place my bets with the bookmakers… The overall winner is the Glen Grant 36yo 1972 (Duncan Taylor for TWF) which received 91/100 and overtook many malts that are a lot more expensive.
Six out of seven Gold medals are won by (heavy) sherry bottlings
Few remarkable scores for peated whisky (except for the awards in strictly peated categories of course – is this separate treatment still relevant by the way? Why is sherry not placed in specific categories?). Also, it should be noted that the best Islay releases are from independent bottlers
Japanese distilleries (Karuizawa, Yoichi, Hakushu) and other countries (India’s Amrut and even France’s Glan Ar Mor) are responsable for a lot of high scores
La Maison du Whisky is doing a great job selecting casks (3 Gold medals, 6 Silver and 3 Bronze)
The second cask of Port Ellen 1982/2009 by Old Bothwell. It’s funny how Old Bothwell labels often say “cask type: oak”. What a surprise!
Port Ellen 26 yo 1982 (55,7%, Old Bothwell 2009, cask #2473)
Nose: a bit dirty I’m afraid. Maybe not real sulphur but something like plastics and cooked cabbage. Cask #2545 didn’t have this at all, but overall it’s not too bad. It goes out of focus after a few minutes. Now there’s liquorice and gunpowder (great), quite some leather too. More smoke than cask #2545, more wood as well. Beefy notes, some tobacco and nice forest fruits. Mouth: sweeter than the other cask, with a sort of honey coating around the peaty center. Just as peppery though (not unlike a punchy Talisker). Much more on dried fruits and sherry. Getting more salty in the end with hints of grapefruit, but the bitterness is much better under control here. Finish: very long, the saltiness disappears slowly and the fruitiness takes over.
I guess the oak type can be identified as a refill sherry cask. Don’t mind the dirty notes, as long as you don’t compare it directly to other whisky, you’ll easily get over it. Or maybe you simply like that particular profile. The good side of the sherry coin is the fruitiness and the lack of bitter notes. Around € 150.
ps/ No need to tell you this, but preferences and opinions may differ of course. Both releases were a huge hit at the Spirits in the Sky festival and practically the whole stock has been sold. It seems a lot of people liked them even more than I did. Check The Bonding Dram if you want one of the last bottles.
Nowadays most of the Port Ellen releases are from 1978/1979 (e.g. official annual releases) or 1982/1983 (e.g. recent Signatory or Douglas Laing releases). Both periods share lots of common features but a few characteristic differences as well. Would be interesting to do a comparison one day…
Port Ellen 26 yo 1982 (56,4%, Old Bothwell 2009, cask #2545)
Nose: quite citrusy at first. Hints of lemon yoghurt. Not much peat, nor smoke, but loads of vanilla and a slight floweriness. Some farmy notes as well, which I think is great. Hints of plaster. Very nice. Mouth: a blast of peat smoke which you wouldn’t expect from the nose. Quite hot, very invading and peppery. Lots of salt water, getting really mineral and bitter towards the finish (tonic with lemon zest). High on aspirin. A tad too austere for me. Finish: very long, dry, still quite bitter.
This Port Ellen has a wonderful nose, but the aspirin on the palate wasn’t exactly what I expected. Still, if your looking for a flinty, austere Port Ellen, this surely deserves your attention.
Around € 150.
Old Bothwell is a rather young company in Scotland specializing in personalised spirits gifts and exclusively labeled malt whisky. Not exactly a source for high quality whisky, I hear you say, but they’re very interesting because they own a very large array of Port Ellen casks which they probably acquired before the hype.
La Maison du Whisky selected this Strathisla cask in 2007. In fact, this 1967 vintage is still well available from a large range of bottlers.
Strathisla 40yo 1967
(50%, Gordon & MacPhail for La Maison du Whisky 2007, cask #6112, 400 btl.)
Nose: very different – fruity but more dried fruits than the Whisky Agency bottling. Dates, figs, some tangerine. Less sweet, much more resinous (fir needles) with a few earthy notes as well (forests, cellars). Reminds me of some kinds of toilet spray (sorry, I guess we have high-end sprays at home?). Leather. Mouth: very spicy, again lots of oak influence. Some pepper, ginger, liquorice. More fruit in the aftertaste (soft peach). Finish: sweet and fruity, apricots and pears.
The amount of oak in this Strathisla for LMdW is probably on the same level as in the Strathisla for Whisky Agency, but this one has a more interesting evolution and regains its fruitiness in the finish. Good complexity, but not the cracker I expected. Still available if you look around. Actual price: € 235.
I’ll be reviewing two 1967 Strathislas head-to-head. The first one is a 42 year-old Strathisla bottled earlier this year by the German Whisky Agency in their Fossils series. It was matured in a bourbon cask.
Nose: very elegant. A soft fruit salad (plums) with hints of almonds (marzipan). Walnuts and honey. Slightly leathery. After a while, it shows a ‘green’ edge, with hints of green pine cones or very unripe fruits. Fresh herbs. Impressive and uncommon at the same time. Mouth: big oakiness, over-infused tea, some spices and liquorice. A bit of menthol. The fruit is completely overtaken by the wood now, which is a shame. Finish: not too long, on spicy oak and tea again. A fairly dry end.
Although Strathisla is known to take age better than usual, 42 years is still a lot. If you don’t mind the obvious oak, go for it. A lot to say after so many years, but certainly not perfect. Around € 200.
It was difficult to make a selection from the Carn Mor vintage collection. There’s a bit of everything, so I decided to go for whiskies I didn’t know too well.
Although it’s one of the oldest distilleries in existence, Tobermory is not very popular. Sales decreased and production capacity is limited. Apart from unpeated whisky, they also make a peated version named Ledaig.
Nose: there’s sulphur and there’s sulphur. This is the eggy type. A few mashy and grainy notes with hints of a drain. Cereals with milk. Some pears. Hints of shoe polish. 15 years really? There’s a fruity side to it, but it doesn’t shine through. Mouth: a bit cardboardy, lots of liquorice. Some nougat and caramel. Pears again and oranges. Shampoo and cologne in the aftertaste. Finish: medium length, becoming surprisingly candied and caramelly with notes of lavender.
I’m not sure what to make of this. Weird anyway and not my idea of decent whisky, so let’s not try to examine it too far. Bad choice. I’m afraid a lot of the 2744 bottles will end up in the sink.
The Hesperia Madrid is one of the best known high quality 5* hotels in Madrid. Their Scotch Bar is quite a cosy place, though a little old-fashioned.
Location: Paseo de la Castellana 57 – 28046 Madrid (Spain) Range: +/- 50 single malts (menu available without descriptions, but lots of whiskies are mentioned in the wrong region, and lots of spelling mistakes) Price: € 12,50 to € 42
What I’ve had:Glengoyne 17 Price: € 15 (+/- 6cl) Glass: tumbler (eventually changed for a cognac glass) Extra: poured at the table, ice offered separately, different nuts
Pros: generous portions, professional staff, excellent cocktails as well Cons: no clients on a Saturday evening, expensive, menu full of mistakes