It’s always nice to have a dram from a distillery you haven’t tasted before. This will be my first Glenugie. It used to be the easternmost distillery in Scotland, founded in 1831 but closed and dismantled during the whisky crisis of 1983. There are no official bottlings and independent ones are scarce.
Glenugie 27yo 1982
(50%, Douglas Laing Old Malt Cask 2009, DL ref. 5040, 216 btl.)
Nose: starts on vanilla and flowers. Quite a sweet but fresh nose, reminds me of a good (flowery) moscatel wine. Hints of bergamot and pollen. Developing on fruit candy. Pineapple, orange marmalade, peach. Caramelized apples. Pears on syrup. Slightly waxy as well. What can I say: wow! Mouth: here we go again… all sorts of fruits or fruit liqueurs, candy sugar, hints of cake and marmalade. Vanilla. Marzipan. The oakiness is well controlled for the age. More herbal notes towards the end. Finish: very creamy, soft vanilla. Medium length.
Glenugie is often ignored and getting difficult to find, but I think this one is a hidden gem. The previous cask of Glenugie in the Douglas Laing Old Malt Cask series was quite popular, and I can see why. TWE has an interesting price (£ 100) whereas the rest of Europe seems to charge around € 140. Don’t say I didn’t warn you about this one!
Duncan Taylor, like many other independent bottlers, sometimes bottle casks for certain stores or distributors. This cask was the second Caol Ila that they’ve bottled for The Nectar in 2008. Both were distilled in 1982 and the previous one was very good (I was able to taste it in a store, so no actual tasting notes).
The Nectar is the Belgian importer of Arran, Springbank, Samaroli… and Duncan Taylor. They also bottle their own casks in the Daily Dram series.
Caol Ila 26yo 1982
(54,6%, Duncan Taylor 2008, for The Nectar, cask #2738, 279 btl.)
Nose: nice and clean. Rather ashy but quite fruity as well. Lemon and lychee. Vanilla. Hints of smoked bacon, liquorice and bonfires. After a while, it starts getting slightly farmy (wet wool, stables) which is something I really appreciate. Some coastal notes as well. Complex with a subtle balance. Mouth: big invasion of peat, mineral notes and citrus. Quite salty and very powerful, more than you would expect at this age. Develops on sweeter notes. Finish on liquorice with a salty edge. Sweet peat smoke and lemon pie.
Like the previous cask: high quality Caol Ila with a large range of flavours to be discovered. Since it was bottled for a local distributor, it will be hard to find outside of Belgium. Around € 125.
There’s absolutely nothing wrong with Laphroaig’s profile, but sometimes I get the feeling that there’s some variation missing. I guess that’s part of the brand’s popularity and the fact that every independent bottler wants a piece of the cake and releases a few casks each year. This 1996 vintage is from a bourbon cask and part of the Malts of Scotland range.
Nose: very interesting. The usual seaweed, smoke and iodine but there’s something different about it. Vanilla and lemon. Quite some coal. Medicinal notes, but those are not uncommon of course. Some “garage” associations, you know the smell when you go into a car part store. Leaning towards linoleum, tar or plastics. Don’t get me wrong, I like it a lot. It freshens up with water, the citrus comes out as well as some floral notes. even slightly shampooish (in a good way). Subtly different. Mouth: really really ashy. Apart from that, almost everything is there: sweet, sour, salt. More lemon. Big and quite hot. Fruitier and sweeter with water. Finish: as it thins out, there’s mostly smoke and tar. Some pepper. Long aftertaste.
A classic Laphroaig, spiced up with some more complex or unusual flavours. Apart from the heavy smoke, great balance. Around € 60. Another Malts of Scotland release to recommend.
The Mountain of Gold is the tallest peak of the island. This Jura Paps was finished in Pinot Noir (Bourgogne) wine casks. It is one of the more difficult grapes to deal with but it has a complex aroma of black cherries and cinnamon. Sometimes there are hints of mushrooms or barnyard.
Jura Paps ‘Mountain of Gold’ (46%, OB 2009, Pinot Noir finish, 1366 btl.)
Nose: slightly more dusty, with indeed some hints of mushrooms in the distance. Apart from that, lots of cocoa. Almonds and violets. Generally a more spicy profile. Mouth: rather spicy (aniseed, slightly peppery), the most prickly of the trio. Blackberry marmelade. Hints of tobacco and liquorice. Finish: slightly more woody. Drying and peppery.
Personally I think this one has the biggest influence of grapes. It didn’t impress me as much as the other two. Around € 100.
The name ‘Beinn A’Chaolais’ comes from the narrow water channel between the island of Jura and Islay. This Jura Paps was finished in Bordeaux wine casks (Cabernet Sauvignon). This grape variety has a distinct aroma of green peppers or asparagus caused by the pyrazine molecules.
Jura Paps ‘Mountain of the Sound’
(46%, OB 2009, Cabernet Sauvignon finish, 1366 btl.)
Nose: very fruity again, but this one has a slightly nuttier / woodier profile. Hints of blackcurrant and cedar wood with almonds with whiffs of milk chocolate. Cantaloupe (hami melon). Cloves. Mouth: obvious red wine taste. Spicy taste. Orangettes (chocolate covered orange candy), toffee. Sweet and honeyed. Nutmeg towards the end. Finish: spicy cake aroma, nutmeg and chocolate again.
Isle of Jura really managed to get the wine finish right, which is not at all an obvious achievement. In general I’m not a big fan of wine finishes, but this is interesting. Around € 100.
The Jura Paps ‘Beinn Shiantaidh’ was finished in Barolo wine casks. The name of this peak is derived from local rumours that it hides the remains of the Lords of the Isles. Barolo is an Italian wine, one of many to claim the title “Wine of the Kings”. It is produced from the Nebbiolo grape and is known for its characteristic aromas of tar and roses.
Nose: fragrant and fruity. You certainly notice the grapes but they’re well integrated. Notes of red berries, tangerine and oranges. Pomegrenate. Lots of floral notes as well: rose water, honeysuckle, some lavender. Really elegant. Mouth: sweet. Slightly more wood influence now, and caramel (natural I guess). Toffee, still some berries and oranges covered in chocolate. Finish: sweet with some wood but still nicely balanced. Not too long though.
I like the nose very much. The typical Barolo aroma of rose petals works very well. Around € 100 which is too expensive though.
In June 2009, Jura Distillery launched a limited edition of 3 single malts inspired by the Paps of Jura mountains that dominate the skyline of the island.
The trio is 15 years old and finished in different types of wine casks.
Jura Paps ‘Beinn An Oir’ Mountain of Gold: Pinot Noir finish
Jura Paps ‘Beinn A’Chaolais’ Mountain of Sound: Cabernet Sauvignon
Jura Paps ‘Beinn Shiantaidh’ The Sacred Mountain: Barolo finish
Only 1366 bottles are released, signed by Master Distiller Willie Cochrane. If you buy the full set (€ 300), there is a fancy case that holds the three individual boxes. Stay tuned for reviews of the set.