Littlemill 21 yo 1992
(52,9%, The Whisky Mercenary 2014)
Nose: starts maybe a little grassier than other casks. Lots of power. Typical waxy notes / lemon balm, then some tangerine and grapefruit. A sharper rhubarb note. A soft vanilla / frangipane whiff seems to come and go. Mouth: takes no prisoners. Perfect zestiness of grapefruit and lemon, with slightly rounder tangerine. Citrus green tea and grasses. A soft hint of vanilla marshmallow in the back, as well as a creaminess of latte, or coconut. Perfectly focused on its Lowlands strengths. Finish: medium long, zesty, with a spicy warmth.
Another one of these very enjoyable Littlemills. We may be spoiled now but I’m telling you these stocks can’t last forever. Around € 115, available from most Belgian retailers as we speak.
The Strathisla 8 Years Old must have been one of the regular common malts in the 1970’s and 1980’s. Many versions exist (some with a subtle floral print above and below the label for example), all bottled by Gordon & MacPhail in one of their semi-official series.
Strathisla 8 yo ‘70° Proof’ (40%, Gordon & MacPhail 1970’s, 26 3/4 fl. oz)
Nose: not extremely assertive, but a nice, rather naked distillate nonetheless. Lots of hay and dried flowers. Hints of muesli. Some cooked apple. Simple pleasures. Mouth: again not too bold. Sweet apples, lots of malty notes. A little mint and pepper. Also a bit of a floral, almost perfumy side. Finish: medium long. Most of the sweetness is gone, and some dry grainy notes stay behind.
A simple malt without flaws but without any special flair as well. Comes close to other low-budget malts from these days, like the common Glen Grant 5 Year Olds. It shows that things weren’t always better in the old days.
Pre-war whisky, it’s one of these things any serious whisky enthusiast should have experienced. The recent ‘Pre-War Whisky Tour’ that you may have seen on Facebook could make you think otherwise, but you don’t usually stumble upon these things easily. They’re lucky cellar finds or expensive auction items.
This Glen Grant 21 Year Old 70° proof is one of the best examples I’ve come across. It was bottled by Gordon & MacPhail in their semi-official distillery series.
We’re lucky when it comes to dating this bottle: it is sealed with a securo cap. That’s a special kind of screw cap, very effective and probably ahead of its time, but only used for a couple of years between 1961 and 1963. Gordon & MacPhail used it but you can also find it on bottles of Macallan or blends from this era.
The very narrow timespan of bottling, minus at least twenty one years of maturation, leads us back to a distillation date of 1940-1942 or earlier. Glen Grant was closed during World War II however, so the whisky inside the bottle is effectively 1930’s production.
Glen Grant 21 yo (70° proof, Gordon & MacPhail 1960’s, securo cap)
Nose: it’s a typical profile, but one we haven’t described too often on this blog. It starts with a rich, pastry-like sweetness. Honey, soft apricots and golden raisins. Bright citrus. Banana. This moves towards waxy notes (candles) and polished wood. But the unique part are old-style hints of camphor, heavenly silver polish and subtle peat. Such elegance. Also worn leather and dusty libraries. In the background, there’s a whole list of tiny aromas. Bay leaves, marjoram, ashes, dried chanterelles, almonds, pipe tobacco… Endless and priceless. Mouth: fairly savoury, with tobacco stepping forward again. Lots of oily things, huge wax and metallic notes. Then a vague fruity sweetness (fruit cake, maybe apple) and caramelized brown sugar. Plenty of spices and herbs (ginger, clove, cinnamon, menthol). Something of a herbal liqueur. Clear coal smoke and a ‘garage’ flavour towards the end, as well as the rancio side of an old Palo Cortado. Finish: alright, not huge, mainly a mix of herbs and bittersweet elements.
It’s difficult not to get nostalgic with such a whisky. It goes back at least 75 years. How did they achieve this complexity and these unique aromas? Were they originally present or is it a matter of half a decade of sublime ‘bottle refinement’? Will we ever witness the same effect with current production, after many years? A small masterpiece anyway, perfect to conclude 1500 blog posts.
Kininvie was the ‘secret distillery’ within the William Grant & Sons production site that also houses Glenfiddich and Balvenie. Although its stillhouse was separate, it used to share mash tuns and washbacks with The Balvenie. But now it has been expanded with its own dedicated equipment.
So far we’ve only seen a couple of Hazelwood-branded releases from these stills. They were only fired when extra blending whisky was required (it’s the core ingredient of Monkey Shoulder) and there was officially never any intent to bottle Kininvie as a single malt. Until this first official bottling that was launched in Taiwan last year. It’s a 23 years old composition of different bourbon and sherry casks distilled in 1990.
The fact that it’s called Batch 001 indicates the start of a series, maybe also releasing expressions in other parts of the world, although it looks like nothing is fixed yet and they prefer the future to be a little vague.
Kininvie 23 yo 1990
(42,6%, OB 2013, hogsheads & sherry butts, 6430 btl, Batch 001, 35 cl.)
Nose: an elegant nose but also a slightly spirity one. Even at relatively low strength it’s rather neutral. Kirsch or other types of fruit spirit. A lot of vanilla and almonds. Newish oak. A hint of apple, as well as apple blossom. Floral honey. Not bad, just not very expressive. Mouth: very sweet, plenty of apples and honey again. Citrus. Damsons. Maybe hints of strawberries. Sugared cereals. Some pepper and a general oaky note towards the end. Finish: medium long, with apple and hints of chocolate.
I really like The Balvenie and this Kininvie 1990 has a similar character, but on the other hand there’s a strange blend-like side to it as well, including the rough, grainy edges. A malt that’s made to replicate – or reinforce – a blend? Around € 250 for a half bottle – that’s a lot of money, even for one of the rarest names.
Nose: dry and herbal, with lots of forest associations. Dried flowers, moss and leafy notes. A proud nose but a little unsexy, although there’s a subtle fruity side of yellow apple and overripe banana. A little chalk, as well as milky cereals. Last but not least: a nice, dry layer of 35 years old dust. Mouth: thick and sweet, slightly milky / creamy again. The grassy notes are back, some grapefruit skin, apples… Dried coconut flakes. A good deal of old oak, with pepper and nutmeg coming along. A very subtle hint of sweet coffee. I’m missing a bit of fruits here, but they do get stronger when you add a bit of water. Finish: long, oaky, zesty, grassy and spicy. You can’t blame this one a lack of punch.
I really like the old-style charm on the nose, but on the palate it does start to show its lengthy time in wood. Slightly shy on the fruits. Around € 210.
Stagg Jr. was the highly anticipated younger version of Buffalo Trace’s power bourbon George T. Stagg. Its age is still above average though, and they share the same recipe and strength, so ‘Junior’ may have an adverse effect of making it seem more approachable.
This American bourbon has no age statement, although the label says it was aged for nearly a decade. We’ve heard it’s slightly over 8 years old. Contrary to the yearly senior version, Stagg Jr. will have three to four batches a year.
Stagg Jr. (67,2%, OB 2013, first batch)
Nose: I believe my nostrils are gone. A very fierce ethanol kick and wood burn. After some settling down and water, indeed similar to a senior George T. Stagg. Very rich, with lots of dry, oaky notes and rye spices like pepper and clove. Wood varnish. Toffee and honey sweetness as well. Chocolate. A lot of vanilla notes as well, if you let it breathe. Mouth: a nice combination of honey and bags of mint. Then some cinnamon bark and really dry wood. Quite hefty, alcoholic, sweet and tannic. A few drops of water make it slightly citrusy but the powdery dryness becomes even louder – I find it difficult to get a good balance with drinkability. Finish: long, dry with burnt notes and vanilla.
Rather good, but it goes downhill. The nose is pretty rich, but the palate is a harsh oak infusion with a surprising thinness if you think away the alcohol. Around $ 50 in the US, or around € 90 if you find a bottle on this side of the ocean.
This whisky was originally made for blending purposes. The barley was malted with mainland peat and then matured nearby Glasgow in bourbon casks. It’s technically not even Orkney whisky this way, but the result turned out too nice to be blended.
Highland Park 15 yo ‘Freya’
(51,2%, OB 2014)
Nose: quite honeyed for a HP, with juicy pear, melon, pink grapefruit and a soft tropical touch of papaya. A lot of vanilla. Soft heathery notes and a little mint. There’s something more pungent (ashy / peaty) in the background. A subtle coastal note too. Mouth: quite fruity again. Apple, lemon pie, going towards biscuity notes. Some fresh oaky notes with accompanying spices (ginger, pepper). Some uncommon flavours as well: cardamom, something plastic-like, pine sap, lemongrass… Strangely bitter-sour in places, but there’s still a tropical edge (coconut) at the same time. Finish: long, still ‘green’ and zesty, even slightly perfumy, with very soft peat smoke.
I rather liked this one, but mostly because it’s different, even though this also makes your eyebrows raise at times. Thor is still my favourite. Between € 170 and € 270 depending on how greedy your retailer is when it comes to overhyped releases. Thanks Jack.
I must admit I haven’t tried many whiskies from the Zuidam distillery in the South of Holland (very near to the Belgian border). I hear some are good. For me, the Millstone 8yo French Oak was not quite there yet.
This Millstone 1999 was matured in a refill bourbon cask for 8 years (Kelvin Cooperage and Jack Daniels?) before being transferred to a Pedro Ximénez cask for a 5-year finish. It was bottled in August 2013.
(46%, OB 2013, Special cask #1, PX)
Nose: a pleasant surprise. A slightly oriental mix of sandalwood, rose pepper and cumin, alongside a juicy sherry influence. Red berries, fig syrup and raisins. Some dried apricots and honey. Not totally classic but very entertaining. Mouth: very sweet, in a slightly strange way. It starts in a caramelly / syrupy way (brown sugar and preserved cherries) and then turns towards gingerbread and sweet liquorice candy. Lots of Dutch liquorice really. Plenty of spices again, mainly pepper and some aniseed. Bittersweet evolution. Finish: quite long, some bitter notes but the sticky sweetness overtakes them. Cough syrup.
A bit quirky again, extremely sticky, a bit too much liquorice for me as well. Not sure whether the spirit or the PX cask was responsible for this result. Around € 75.