This Laphroaig 1998 is another new exclusive for The Whisky Exchange, bottled by Signatory Vintage. Again it is not a completely undiscovered series, adjacent sherry butts have been bottled for La Maison du Whisky and others.
Laphroaig 16 yo 1998
(59,9%, Signatory Vintage for TWE 2015, refill sherry butt #700389, 585 btl.)
Nose: a very sooty kind of Laphroaig. Lots of earthy smoke and leafy notes, wet limestone and leather. Exhaust fumes and hints of matches. There’s a dark sweetness to it as well, with lacquered roast meat and beef jerky as well as something of prune sauce. Peppery chocolate and subtle medicinal notes. A very dark style. Mouth: really dark smoke again, with tarry notes and mineral notes. The charred raisins on the outside of a raisin roll. Liquorice and Pu’ehr tea, with some cough candy. Espresso. A nice mintiness (After Eight) and sweet tobacco lift it up a little. Finish: long, still very smoky and leathery, with some salted almonds and cinnamon.
An interesting, dense and dark Laphroaig. The spirit overpowers the sherry in this case, but that is obviously not so bad. As you know sherried Laphroaig doesn’t come cheap these days: around € 170. Available from TWE.
This is Batch 4 of the GlenDronach Cask Strength, matured in Pedro Ximénez and Oloroso sherry casks. Shops keep selling this as a ‘sherry bomb’ but based on the colour, we expect a slightly lighter, fruitier dram.
GlenDronach Cask Strength (54,7%, OB 2015, Batch #4, 17.806 btl.)
Nose: more stewed fruits than dried fruits. Fig compote, honey and yellow raisins. Cinnamon pastry, peppery oak and a hint of herbal tea. Apricots. Roasted nuts. A slightly lighter, but very juicy version of GlenDronach’s sherry character. Mouth: spicy attack (ginger / pepper combo) followed by apricots and prunes. Sultanas and gingerbread. Cinnamon cookies and honey. A nice, spicy sherry influence with big juicy fruits underneath. Finish: long, showing the same spices and fruits, with touches of peppery oak.
A really good GlenDronach, with a fruitiness that comes close to batch #1. Not entirely what I call a sherry bomb, but definitely a very nice, sherried whisky. Around € 75.
The latest release from Eiling Lim is an Auchentoshan 1992. In general I don’t get excited when I see this distillery, but this one turned out a bit different.
Auchentoshan 23 yo 1992
(45,7%, Eiling Lim 2015, 132 btl.)
Nose: a light, flowery and rather ethereal nose. Blossoms in spring, nectarine, unripe apricots, green banana and light tropical fruits. Hints of bubble gum and jawbreakers. Very fresh, with some menthol and quite a lot of waxy notes (lipstick). A bit of vanilla. Mouth: starts fruity and sweet, with lots of unripe fruits again. White nectarine, oranges, melon. A subtle Irishness. Light ginger and touches of green oak, making it slightly bittersweet. Some waxy notes again – it’s rather perfumed in a good way. Finish: fairly long, with citrus, green apple and a light grassiness.
The Lowlands are not my favourite region and Auchentoshan not my favourite distillery, but this is nicely different, very refined and just very good within its style. Definitely a spring whisky.
Bushmills 21 Year Old is matured in Oloroso sherry casks and bourbon casks. After that it’s finished for two years in Madeira casks. This is the top of Bushmills’ core range.
Bushmills 21 yo
(40%, OB +/- 2014)
Nose: a nice, warm fruitiness of banana, fresh figs, mango and tangerine. Floral honey. Quite thick, with creamy white chocolate and some vanilla latte. Subtle grassy notes. Mouth: classic Irish fruitiness, think banana, guava and bright hints of passion fruits. Also a sweet metallic note. Fresh and juicy. Gets warmer (almond paste) and drier towards the end, with coconut shavings, leafy notes / tea. Finish: long, really sweet, on mint syrup, sugared tea, berries and tobacco.
A convincing Irish whiskey, with the typical tropical fruits alongside darker elements. A bit underpowered at 40% but still quite flavoursome. Around € 90 – beware for huge price differences.
It has taken a while but now the Elements of Islay series finally includes an Octomore Oc1, the highly peated spirit distilled at Bruichladdich. In fact this is one of the first independent Octomore releases ever.
Octomore Oc1 (65,4%, Elements of Islay 2015, 50 cl)
Nose: quite compact and dense, with initial aromas of eucalyptus and medicinal notes of antiseptics and iodine. Brine. Then some sour apples, becoming sweeter with hints of peach and marzipan. Lots of mineral notes, some sourdough as well. Mouth: really heavy peat. I’ve had Octomores that were surprisingly soft but this one is rather gobsmacking. Very ashy, barbecued and sharp, again with a slight yeasty side and lots of herbal notes, like gentian, ginger and burnt thyme. Salty notes too, bread crust and chili heat. Hints of lemon. Finish: long, thick, warm and smoky, with a sweet herbal edge.
This is a version of Octomore in which the peat is big and powerful, but it gets away with it by adding lots of sweetness and some herbal notes too. Very good but pretty expensive compared to the official bottlings (around € 250 for 50 cl). Available from TWE.
While the 10 Years had 80% bourbon and 20% sherry casks, the 15 Years was predominantly matured in sherry casks, some of which have been heavily charred. Longer maturation means the smokiness of the 10 should be muted a little, while the (sherry) wood brought out different aromas.
Benromach 15 yo (43%, OB 2015)
Nose: clearly the same family as the 10, just a bit more juicy and sherried. More Fino-style than Oloroso-style, with some walnut and chamomile notes. It also has the stewed fruitiness, the old-style dustiness and leathery notes. Tiny hints of earthy smoke. Some figs and candied ginger. Waxed paper too, although I find the 10 waxier (and that’s one of the reasons why I like it so much). Mouth: again a mix of austere elements (walnuts, apple skin, some bitterness) and roundness (plums, cocoa and subtle dried fruits). A mentholated freshness, some vanilla and pepper. Finish: long, with orange zest, cocoa and pepper.
This is excellent, highly singular whisky again. Its takes the 1960s style of the 10yo into sherry territories. When I’m forced to choose, I still think Benromach 10 is hard to beat, especially at half the price. Around € 80.
Islay’s smallest distillery released this Kilchoman Sanaig which is a composition of 50% bourbon casks and 50% Oloroso sherry, matured for around 4-5 years. It is named after a creek close to the distillery and it will be a permanent member of the core range.
(46%, OB 2015)
Nose: a fairly friendly, balanced expression. The peat smoke is not as offensive as in some other expressions. Instead there is some fruit compote in the fore (pineapple, red apple) with vanilla. Grilled lacquered meat. Toffee. Also a little marshmallow. Soft mineral notes and sea spray in the background. Mouth: peppery attack, quickly joined by some toffee and fruit candy. Sweet lemon. Caramelized apple. Some new-make notes underneath, but well balanced. Some medicinal, peaty notes towards the end. Finish: long, still very sweet but with some brine and drier, ashy hints as it fades.
Maybe a tad youngish, and maybe a little too sweet for some, but other than that, a fine Kilchoman. Around € 55-60.
Auchentoshan has two expressions named Springwood and Heartwood, both exclusive to travel retail (at least they once were). While Springwood is a bourbon-matured release, Heartwood uses deeply charred bourbon casks and Spanish Oloroso sherry casks. The term refers to the rich core heart of the tree.
Auchentoshan Heartwood is said to be around 7 years of age. Unfortunately it’s also coloured with E-150.
Auchentoshan Heartwood (43%, OB 2015)
Nose: a rather dry, almost grassy kind of sherry. Hints of wood chips, giving it a green touch. Orange oils and lime zest, yellow raisins and toffee. Apple peel and hints of cocoa. Mouth: starts sweet, with raisins and a little caramel, but it quickly picks up peppery notes and some resinous oak, making it bittersweet. Some toasted (burnt) nuts and a biting grainy note. Finish: not too long, with zesty citrus and the bitterness of dark chocolate.
I’m not so sure. It’s rather complex for a NAS composition, but there’s an astringency on the palate and throughout the finish that I found a bit unpleasant. Nonetheless a full-bodied Lowlander. Around € 40-50 for a 1-litre bottle.