In the past few months Fruitful Spirits released a series of new casks in their series called Exceptional Cask Selection. We start with a Highland Park from a refill hogshead. After that there will be more pressure-cooked whiskies from all sorts of cask types, including some that we haven’t had before…
Highland Park 22 yo 2003 (45,6%, Fruitful Spirits 2026, refill hogshead #1036, 159 btl.)
Nose: fresh lemon zest, light (pine)apple and green banana, along with a nice waxiness and hints of pollen. There’s a heathery side to it (of course). Then also mineral notes, a little menthol and sea breeze, as well as a grassiness and fresh barley.
Mouth: waxy and earthy elements, but still a good dose of yellow fruits like plums, apples and green banana. Then a funky note appears, that is a little fizzy and floral. Hints of ginger, herbs and white pepper, more menthol and a salty note. A subtle buttery hint and an ashy note too.
Finish: rather long, still showing this fizzy / floral touch, with ashes, ginger and coastal hints.
I think the nose had a certain Ben Nevis vibe to it. On the palate I found the floral edge a little un-classic, even disturbing at first, but it grew on me. A nice selection but competition is tough when it comes to this distillery.
Highland Park 13 yo 2013 (56,3%, Fruitful Spirits 2026, Vin Santo barrique #11, 119 btl.)
Nose: a lot of honey and slightly synthetic, sweet vanilla notes. Then dried fruits, perhaps more nutty (walnut and hazelnut) than fruity (sultanas, prunes). Candied citrus as well. Underneath there are a lot of winey / vermouth-like hints, with herbal notes, some clove and a musty woody / leafy layer growing stronger.
Mouth: similar impressions. A lot of hazelnut and walnut, with cocoa and plenty of baking spice. Nutmeg and ginger. Toffee as well, but more savoury than sweet. Then gentle smoke and some baked apple.
Finish: long, on oak spice and hints of cask char, with sultanas and baked apple.
We’ve had Vin Santo casks before and while it does play a firm personality card, we found the results to be underwhelming. Here as well, after a two-year finish the oak and spice takes away part of the distillery character. I think we can assume it was European oak which left its mark. Score: 80/100
Let’s move to another uncommon cask type and try a Lagrima Red Port cask. We never had that before. Contrary to ageing categories like Ruby, Tawny or Vintage, Lágrima (the Portuguese word for tear) is a sweetness indicator also called Muito Doce (very sweet). These Ports are the most syrupy of all: they should contain more than 130 g/L of sugar. It is primarily associated with white Port but producers like Ramos Pinto also offer a Lágrima Ruby.
Pulteney 18 yo 2008 (50,3%, Fruitful Spirits 2026, first-fill Lágrima Red Port cask #13469, 281 btl.)
Nose: typical Port influence, with a rosé wine character. Red berries, sweet melon and peach, stewed pears. Caramel biscuits and a mild pepperiness. Light pencil shavings and a subtle saltiness.
Mouth: a mix of syrupy notes and wood spice. Preserved cherry, more melons and peach candy, as well as some shortbread and vanilla. Candied orange slices, white grape must (hints of Moscatel) and honey. Then the grittiness of the wine appears, with clove, ginger, cocoa powder and some tannins.
Finish: medium to long, with similar wood spice, cocoa and grape.
Not that different from other Port casks, although I liked the peachy Muscat note. Not my favourite style but better than most other Port casks I’ve had. Available from Fruitful Spirits or retailers like Master of Malt. Score: 83/100
Cigar Malt 16 yo 2010 (53,4%, Fruitful Spirits 2026, Batch #3, first-fill PX hogsheads #868625 + 868628, 633 btl.)
Nose: fresh and vibrant. Lots of raspberry acidity and strawberry sweetness, prune jam and brandy-soaked raisins. Hints of gingerbread, milk chocolate and toffee. Some liqueur-like elements. Then armagnac notes, with a little tobacco and leafy hints.
Mouth: more juicy sweetness, although there’s more herbal intensity and a tea-like edge now. More raisins, boozy plums, caramelized apples and tobacco notes. Also orange oils, Ginjinha and sour citrus. The of course also a big of gingery sharpness and charred elements from the cask.
Finish: quite long, still toasted, with hints of cocoa, leather and wet wood.
I had a really good Cigar Malt 2010 from Fruitful Spirits before (also a Speyside whisky), and this is just as easy to recommend. Great intensity, never over the top, and a nice juiciness. Available from Fruitful Spirits or partners like Hedonism Wines. Score: 88/100
Miltonduff 14 yo 2011 (53,7%, Fruitful Spirits 2026, first-fill Oloroso sherry butt #900611 + 900612, 250 btl.)
Nose: a similar ‘100 Proof’ style, if you know what I mean. Prunes and figs, with toffee notes but also the typical (European oak) aromas of exotic hardwood, including their resinous polishes. Teak oil indeed. Then instant coffee, burnt raisin rolls and a wee savoury undertone.
Mouth: here as well the wood influence is quite oriental, even a little medicinal. A lot of menthol, even a hint of glue, crushed peppercorns and ginger. Roasted nuts, treacle, some marmalade and dark chocolate, as well as lots of herbal teas and drying tobacco. A good dash of armagnac too.
Finish: long, sweet and herbal, with the spicy power of a Super Tuscan.
Like the Cigar Malt, this is also a sherry bomb. Well executed but more excessive, with overpowering woody notes. It’s clear that Fruitful Spirits went for intense, outspoken casks this time. Available from Master of Malt. Score: 86/100