Two weeks ago Malternative Belgium presented two new cognacs (and one Pineau des Charentes).
One of them is a Delamain Très Vieux Réserve Grande Champagne as part of their Founder’s Reserve series which already included a very similar demi-john (see our Gastronomic Waves review). The other one is a more price-conscious Lot 97 ‘Le Frimas’ from the Mocquet family, a brouilleur de cru in Grande Champagne. It was 100% made from the Colombard grape, which is rare (< 1%) in today’s market dominated by Ugni Blanc.
Cognac Delamain ‘TV RES’ – Grande Champagne (44,8%, Malternative Belgium ‘Founder’s Reserve’ 2025, 39 btl.)
Nose: aromatic fruity notes up front. Lots of fresh and dried apricots, some quinces and dried mango slices, along with candied orange peels. Underneath there are a lot of nutty aromas and light hints of tobacco leaves, while there’s also a bright top note of wildflowers. Then also a drying leathery note.
Mouth: really expressive. The fruits are still there (tangerine, dried pear, yellow plums, stewed banana) while the creamy nuttiness becomes bigger. Hazelnut paste and almonds, with minty notes, resin and more tobacco. Fresh fig appears after a while, along with a touch of saffron and liquorice.
Finish: long, with beautiful rancio notes, overripe apple, mint and walnuts.
The beautiful blue Flemish jay adorns the label of this excellent Delamain. It’s a complex cognac offering a decent dose of fruits and a couple of less common touches. Consider yourself lucky if you managed to get a bottle.
Cognac Lot 97 – Grande Champagne (53,9%, Malternative Belgium 2025, 257 btl.)
Nose: jumps out of the glass. Ripe pears and yellow apples, along with mirabelles, peaches and light hints of cherries. Some perfumed vineyard peach and really thick honey. Later it moves towards actual floral elements like forsythia. In the background also caramelized and earthy notes, which add to the overall weight.
Mouth: punchy, with a big sweetness and some wood, but also a vivid fruity acidity (Granny Smith) that keeps it lively. More stewed peaches and pears, mirabelles and a hint of marzipan. Then hints of white pepper, chocolate coated nougat and sweetened Earl Grey.
Finish: the spicy heat stays really long, along with a sweet cidery note, rougher leafy hints and more of these stewed orchard fruits.
The expressivity of the nose is great, really jam-packed with aromas. A tad more simple and rustic on the palate, but high quality from the money. This one is still available from Malternative Belgium or partners. Score: 88/100