Last week Malternative Belgium released a “Cognac de conversation”. This assemblage was created with elegance and accessability in mind. It should be an easy-drinking cognac, slightly reduced (deliberately) and combining four cognacs of different ages. The reference XO26 probably indicates it will become a yearly (or at least ongoing) release.
We’re also looking at the third Gastronomic Waves release. As you know Pieter started a series of cognac dinners with different themes and the last one put the spotlights on François Voyer.
Cognac XO 26 – ‘Cognac de conversation’ (41,5%, Malternative Belgium 2026, 194 btl.)
Nose: orange peels, hints of liquorice and mint, along with citron liqueur. Some varnished notes. Also jasmine and aniseed, a faint metallic touch and a subtle greenish note (a mix of flower buds and leaves). No exuberant fruits but we’re picking up melons and even a hint of young Calvados.
Mouth: fairly bright and indeed very accessible. Nice citrus notes (unripe orange) with a big dose of spearmint and a pleasant oily hint. Quinces and greengages. Then fresh herbs in the background and a mildly aromatic floral note. For true aficionados it may feel a little watered down, but I’m sure this will convince a much wider audience.
Finish: on the short side, on mint, peach and very light waxy hints.
A deliberate composition – it’s true that you cannot be against this. It’s refined and elegant, polishing out any rough edges. I expected the price point to be a tad lower but it may be older than I thought. Now available from Malternative Belgium.
Cognac François Voyer 19.89 – Grande Champagne (57.7%, Malternative Belgium ‘Gastronomic Waves #3’ 2026, 50 btl.)
Nose: lively, punchy citrus. Orange and marmalade, later also melons and yellow plums. Pink grapefruit. Then the typical floral notes of orange blossom and jasmine as well, leading up to potpourri. All this with a hint of varnish, light baking spice and minty top notes.
Mouth: the same mix of orchard fruits (now more towards peaches and apricots) with tight hints of varnish and herbal tea. Mid-palate a woody note and some pepper kick in. Later tobacco appears, along with a drying leathery note.
Finish: long, becoming slightly sweeter, with lingering stewed apricot, pepper and herbal honey.
Really good, just a little tight at times, more influenced by the wood perhaps. Often cognac like this works better with (savoury) food, you know, more than a fruit bomb. Also still available from Malternative Belgium. Score: 88/100