Bunnahabhain released a peated expression for Feis Ile 2009, chosen by Master Distiller Ian MacMillan. It’s a 2003 vintage (although there’s no age statement on the bottle), finished in oloroso sherry butts for three months in sea-facing warehouse n°7.

Mòine means “peat” in Gaelic. There was
a similar bottling for Feis Ile 2004.

Bunnahabhain ‘Mòine’ (58,4%,
OB 2009, Feis Isle 2009, 642 btl.)

Nose: starts off with a coastal kick. Salty and slightly sharp. Peaty with big roasted undertones (cocoa, espresso, bread crust). Sweet coal smoke with a delicate lemony edge. Hints of paint. Reminiscent of new-make. Rather weird and slightly off-key. The Lindores guys thought it was immature, which is correct, but I still appreciate it for being different and for having this “dark” side. Mouth: very sweet. Sugar coated peanuts. Salty notes as well (liquorice). The liquid version of the nose really (dark roast, yeast, close to new-make). Finish: sweet at first but getting ashier and drier. Roasted nuts again.

This may not have been the highlight of Feis Ile for some people, but I think Bunnahabhain proposed something unique here. Not new-make but not mature whisky either. Love it or hate it. By far the worst value for money of this year’s festival though (€ 120 for a 6 year-old?).

Score: 82/100