While Mortlach is known for its heavy, usually sherried and slightly dirty spirit, Bert Bruyneel aka Asta Morris proposed a middle-aged bourbon expression as the latest Fulldram club bottling.
Mortlach 17 yo 1995 (50,2%, Asta Morris for Fulldram 2013, AM 022, 314 btl.)
Mortlach 17 yo 1995 (50,2%, Asta Morris for Fulldram 2013, AM 022, 314 btl.)Nose: juicy fruits that grow stronger over time. Garden fruits at first (apple blossom), gooseberries, after a while also pineapple and mandarin. Cooked banana. Some vanilla cake and ginger. Faint mineral notes.
Mouth: malty start, but again plenty of fruit flavour, both fresh and candied. Pineapple, apple, lemon, orange. Also a marzipan / frangipane note. Hints of candy sugar.
Finish: still sweet, also more spices and fresh oak now.
An atypical Mortlach (although several other bourbon expressions from the same period exist) but atypical is a compliment here. Slightly ‘modern’ but bright and fruity drinker’s whisky. The AM house style? Around € 70. Most bottles are reserved for club members, but as usual, QV.ID distributes the remaining bottles.
Score: 87/100