Kiyokawa is a new name – the first farm-to-bottle distillery in Japan. They work with local farmers to grow a unique strain of barley in the distillery grounds, located in the Iiyama mountains in Nagano (about half an hour from Karuizawa).
The distillery was founded in 2019 by David Troiano, originally from Italy. The two pot stills were also imported from Italy, which also explains why they use Marsala casks for maturation, along with sherry casks and some experimental casks.
For their first release, Kiyokawa bottled a 3 year old single malt that had been maturing in an ex-Pedro Ximenez butt. Only 398 bottles (50 cl) and no mention of the word sherry on the label, as far as I can tell. They are stressing the fact that all casks must arrive with at least 5 litres of the original liquid inside. Each bottle features a handmade washi-paper label, produced using barley husks that would otherwise go to waste.
While shifting towards premium single malt, they have been releasing lower-end blended / pure malt whiskies as well (e.g. Nobushi or Kensei).
Kiyokawa ‘The Cask’ 3 yo (61,1%, OB 2026, PX butt, 50 cl, 398 btl.)
Nose: big toffee notes, caramelized hazelnuts, roasted pecans and chocolate coated raisins. It’s a really savoury style, with hints of meat sauce and dried mushrooms alongside the dried fruits. A bit bulky for my taste, lacking some of the brighter red fruits. Then some toasted bread, blackberry jam and hints of mocha candy.
Mouth: rich sherry with a lot of umami depth again. Lots of dark cocoa notes, deep caramel, toasted walnuts and hints of tobacco. Some meaty elements again, along with oak char and hints of crushed black peppercorns. Then figs and prunes, rather plump. Oak spice takes over in the end.
Finish: long, still spicy with a slightly boozy edge, some herbs and lingering dried fruits.
If anything this is a good sherry cask – it reminded me of Glendronach Parliament at some point. That said it’s a savoury, slightly meaty style, which is not necessarily my personal favourite. No Japanese elements so far, in fact it gives us little or no clues about the quality of the spirit. I’m certainly looking forward to a more pure expression though. Exclusively available from Dekanta.