I was quite surprised when I found out the latest batch of The Whisky Agency bottlings contained three Port casks. I double-checked, and then once more, but yes: three Port casks. I don’t think there have been many Port examples from this bottler (Port Ellen doesn’t count, ha), and now we’re getting three at once!
I’m not a fan of red wine casks and Port is usually closer to red wine than sherry for instance, often overpowering the spirit.
Deanston 17 yo 2008 (52,1%, The Whisky Agency 2025, Ruby Port barrique, 164 btl.)
Nose: typical red fruits, like redcurrant and cassis, along with subtle potpourri and peonies. A nice sourness of Kriek beer, with figs. Then also a citrusy top note (lemon peel), with a little rose pepper and a whiff of fresh mint.
Mouth: now the winey side is bigger, with more grape skins, cranberries and a lightly bitter edge. Still a high acidity, with sour cherries, goji berries and under-roasted coffee. Green pepper, rosemary, raisins and light tannins. Even a hint of salted nuts.
Finish: medium length, with a nice sweet-sour balance, just a hint of cocoa and more red fruits.
A nice nose and even the palate is quite good, with a moderate sweetness and a balanced sour side. One of the better Port maturations I’ve had recently. Still a bit of a ‘designer’ whisky though, a weird choice coming from TWA. Available in a wide series of shops.
Braeval 16 yo 2009 (50,9%, The Whisky Agency 2025, Tawny Port barrique, 280 btl.)
Nose: Tawny should be drier, but it feels sweeter than the Deanston. Raspberry and strawberry, rather jammy at first and then moving towards dried fruits. Figs and dates, with hints of Muscovado sugar and a mild spiciness. Hints of herbal tea on top. You get a real sense of Port here.
Mouth: back to the vinous character, including the roughness and the (mild) herbal bitterness. Black peppercorns, fruit stems and blood oranges, along with cranberries and oversteeped rosehip tea. Some tannins. Hints of vermouth as well.
Finish: quite long, but even more winey, with a bittersweet edge and pepper.
Not bad, less acidic than the Deanston, but I can’t help feeling the wine and the whisky are fighting each other. As in the Deanston, everything is fine on the nose but less enjoyable on the palate. Score: 80/100
Remind me to ask Carsten for his thoughts – I’m sure he was trying to prove something, but I’m not really getting it so far.
Croftengea 19 yo 2006 (49,5%, The Whisky Agency 2025, Tawny Port barrique, 162 btl.)
Nose: A deep peatiness, with sooty notes and ashes, hints of worn leather, burnt Mediterranean herbs and hints of mint / menthol. Then hints of cassis and strawberry jam, as well as cranberry juice and light caramel. Whiffs of sandalwood and light balmy nortes. All good.
Mouth: a really nice balance. The sooty, ashy smoke doesn’t overpower, nor the Port. More than enough creamy fruitiness, red berries (raspberry, cherry) but even some lightly tropical elements. Then some leathery notes, fresh figs and raisins.
Finish: medium to long, with dark smoke, barbecued fruits and a mild herbal edge.
This I’m getting. There’s a perfect balance of fruits, smoke and wine, with none of the disturbing winey notes. The peat is simply a velvety blanket for the wine (or vice versa): it balances the sharpness and provides the necessary counterweight. If you insist on Port casks, then this is the one to go for. Score: 89/100