Maury is one of the AOCs for fortified wines (Vin Doux Naturel) in the Rousillon area, near Perpignan in France. It is a fairly small zone (just four communes), even if you add the bigger neighbours Rivesaltes and Banyuls it is a limited production.
Most Maury is sweet but it can also be dry, and it can be made of white or red grapes, mostly grenache, macabeu and muscat. The wines are aged in barriques, large foudres or – more typically – in glass demi-johns exposed to direct sunlight. This gives the wine a flavour profile with the sweetness of Port but also the oxidative rancio character of Madeira for instance.
Some of the best known producers like Mas Amiel, which I visited a couple of years ago, have vineyards in several AOCs so they can offer several denominations.
I don’t think I’ve ever had a whisky matured in Maury casks, so here’s a first. Kilchoman Maury Cask Matured was a full term maturation, not merely a finish. A set of 19 Maury butts from 2021 were vatted for this release, yielding approximately 15,000 bottles.
Kilchoman Maury Cask Matured (50%, OB 2026)
Nose: quite a meaty, savoury start. Lots of dates and dried figs, lacquered bacon and hints of spent matchsticks. Then some citrus notes to lift it. Also salted caramel, hints of potting soil, smoked paprika and burnt herbs. Chocolate coated hazelnuts and a little tahini. The thickness of the wine almost pushes the smokiness to the background.
Mouth: the Kilchoman smoke takes over now. Pipe tobacco, cigar boxes, dried ham and smouldering barbecue ash. Then also dark chocolate, more paprika and crushed black peppercorns. Sweet mocha and dried figs. Some worn leather. A lot of savoury notes again, with leafy hints and a big dose of heavy treacle.
Finish: very long and earthy, with more tobacco, dark cocoa, roasted peanuts and drying wood spice.
Very rich, almost bloated whisky. You’ve got to be a fan of dark caramel and savoury bacon to like this. Overall a tasty dram and one of the darkest Kilchomans I’ve had. Available from The Whisky Exchange or The Whisky Shop among others.