Milroy’s of Soho just released a new batch with four single malts and one single grain whisky. There are a couple of interesting things, starting with a 0 year old Clynelish (new make spirit indeed). There’s also a very old teaspooned Speyside malt and a 43 year old North British.
Ben Nevis 12 yo 2013 (51,5%, Milroy’s ‘Soho Selection’ 2026)
Nose: yeasty start, quinces, lots of sandstone notes and enough porridge to feed a big family. The chalkiness and hints of dough are there, mixed with a lot of vegetal hints that give away its youth and funkiness. Then some leather and a few of mustard seeds.
Mouth: brighter now, backed with more fruits than the nose suggested. Pineapple, banana, green melons and yellow apple. A subtle buttery note, but also sharper hints of chalk again. Light honey. Then back to roots and leaves, slightly bitter citrus peels and green walnuts.
Finish: medium, earthy and salty while hints of white pepper and bread sit in the background.
A nice entry-level Ben Nevis. Obviously you don’t get the same complexity and tropical fruits of the older expressions, but it’s a nice showcase of what the distillery is all about. Available from Milroy’s.
Linkwood 13 yo 2013 (53,4%, Milroy’s ‘Soho Selection’ 2026)
Nose: fresh and seductive. Pear juice, Haribo sweets and drops of barley syrup. A little custard and vanilla candy but also floral honey. Then sweet beer and mint, with a hint of tinned pineapple in the distance.
Mouth: more of this candied profile. Yellow fruit candy, bits of dried coconut and vanilla ice cream. Sweet lemon juice. Fairly modern and bourbonny, but the fruitiness is really pleasant. Then gingery and peppery notes come out towards the end, with undertones of latte but also a greener edge.
Finish: medium length, slightly sharper and more resinous. Toasted oak and white pepper take the lead.
A fun young Speysider that starts with a simple (but attractive) nose. On the palate it expands further. Overall a good daily dram. Only available from Milroy’s of Soho. Score: 85/100
Clynelish 0 yo (62,9%, Milroy’s ‘Soho Selection’ 2026)
Nose: all on sweet barley, with a slightly feisty edge. At its core there is a barley, pear and carrot sweetness. Fairly candied, with a touch of cane sugar. Hints of wax candles but I admit that may be wishful thinking. Rounded and very clean – remember sulphur is quite common in new make spirit.
Mouth: spirity indeed, quite robust and sturdy, with an obvious layer of powder sugar. Big and feisty, now less clean I would say. White pepper, lots of grainy notes, including lemony sharpness and a touch of tequila. That said, there’s a certain fattiness – or waxiness – already.
Finish: quite long, peppery, with a very mild bitter edge despite the sweetness.
This is effectively a new make spirit, so we have to remain realistic. Complexity is low but I think this would already make a very enjoyable highball. Now scoring newmake would be unfair, right? I wouldn’t buy this, even when it’s Clynelish, but it’s definitely interesting to try.
Teaspooned Malt ‘Tun 89’ 36 yo 1989 (53,4%, Milroy’s ‘Vintage Reserve’ 2026)
Nose: a classic Speyside profile on soft vanilla, hay and orchard fruits like peaches and pears. Honey, or maybe pollen. Some gooseberries. Then yellow flowers, with very light waxy touches and a whiff of shoe polish.
Mouth: still sweetish and vibrant. There are plums and peaches, but also more tropical notes like pineapple candy. Just a little bergamot. Vanilla (cake) and hay make a return, along with grassier notes and a green tea-like note.
Finish: medium to long, with a bit of gingery heat along with orchard fruits.
One of these Burnsides, I guess. They’re all quite similar and quite good. Usually just below 90 points for me, because they rarely surprise us. High quality though. Score: 88/100
North British 43 yo 1982 (52,3%, Milroy’s ‘Vintage Reserve’ 2026)
Nose: quite soft, with a nice roundness and the lemony top note that we often find in North British. Some coconut, a hint of popcorn and vanilla, as expected, but not overdone. Also hints of hay, gorse, rosemary and subtle blossomy notes.
Mouth: a little bourbonny now, with a bit more oak than we hoped for. Caramelized notes, citrus and dried apples. Ginger and pepper, as well as a floral side and a slightly raw hint of eau-de-vie. Sour berries, but also a little milk chocolate to widen the scope.
Finish: medium, on pepper, oaky notes and vanilla.
One for bourbon lovers due to its fresh oakiness and the combination with vanilla and coconut. Again not entirely exciting but easy to drink. Score: 85/100