Even though we’re fully in summertime, there haven’t been many rum session lately. Let’s fix that with a selection of seven assorted rums. We’ll have a pair of Foursquare and a pair of Caroni bottlings. Then there is St. Lucia, Savanna and an official Hampden Great House release.
Foursquare 19 yo 2006 (50,6%, The Wealth Spirit & Milroy’s of Soho 2025, cask #34, 175 btl.)
Nose: glue and nail polish remover, mixed with potting soil, a little balsa wood and white pepper. A little vanilla underneath. Then fruity notes like banana and guava come out, along with minty notes and fresh oak shavings.
Mouth: Kentucky calling. There’s a bourbonny woodiness, which mixes with caramel notes, ripe bananas and hints of sweet coconut cream. A feeling of grain whisky as well. Quite solid, with nice varnish again, some liquorice, cinnamon and sweet citrus notes.
Finish: fairly long, with more oaky vanilla, baking spice and caramel sweetness.
A rather accessible Foursquare, with roundness coming from sweet oak, caramel and this typical banana / coconut combo. A bit of a safe choice perhaps, but a nice sipper for sure. Still available from The Wealth Spirit.
Foursquare 19 yo 2005 (58,2%, Oxhead Whisky / Lucky Choice ‘Dram-Addicts’ 2025, bourbon barrel #77A, 103 btl.)
Nose: much more on oranges, orange peels and marmalade, with less of this caramelly side. Dried coconut flakes, but also earthy notes, copper coins and candied ginger. Then a greener side appears, with grassy hints and menthol in the background. Overall a little more austere than the 2006.
Mouth: same feeling of sharpness. Almost a tad coastal in fact, with earthy notes, salted liquorice and more ginger. Lemon peels, pepper and just a hint of nougat. Then triple-sec and mint.
Finish: medium length, with a hint of orange and toasted oak, but otherwise fairly neutral.
I really appreciate the lack of caramel sweetness here, even though it becomes a little narrow and austere at some point. Score: 87/100
Hampden Estate Great House – Distillery Edition 2025 (57%, OB 2025, ex-bourbon casks)
Nose: bananas and charred pineapples, as well as citrus notes. Slightly rotting fruits, with a whiff of paint thinner and a good dose of black olives in brine. A rather refined funkiness, I would say. Then some aniseed and hints of petrol, ginger and lightly floral elements.
Mouth: more intense now. Full of tarry notes, olives and olive oil, citrus peels and saltwater. Some stone fruit and melon, but also grassier notes, herbal notes and banana chips. Pepper, clove and ginger too. Petrol notes and overripe banana return in the end.
Finish: long, very briney, with a hint of glue, liquorice and leafiness.
This is the yearly distillery edition which contains different marks (LFCH, HLCF, HGML and C<>H). Maybe not as delightful as some of the pure (independent) releases, but a great composition nonetheless, with great depth and complexity. A good showcase for the heavy style of this distillery. Available from The Whisky Exchange among others. Score: 89/100
St. Lucia 14 yo 2009 ‘Master’s Selection’ (57,5%, OB ‘Chairman’s Reserve’ for Wu Dram Clan 2025, bourbon barrel #0307052009, 157 btl.)
Nose: a lot of woody notes, with toffee sweetness, some oak shavings and varnished notes. Close to a bourbon whiskey, including generous vanilla. Also spicy notes like pepper and cinnamon, some blackcurrants and cherries in the distance, along with a faint rubbery note and aromatic black tea.
Mouth: intensely woody, leaving a drying footprint. The combination of toasted oak, burnt sugar, leather and vanilla point towards the US again. Then some coconut, menthol and white pepper, as well as some banana. More herbal and tea-ish towards the finish, with an almost perfumed oaky note.
Finish: long, quite dry, on toasted oak, spices and earthy tobacco, with a few bitter drops.
They had a similar cask the year before. However this time I’m less impressed – the oakiness is a little over the top. Score: 84/100
Caroni 23 yo 1998 (57,1%, Precious Liquors & The Auld Alliance 2022, cask #2192, 255 btl.)
Nose: starts with a little metal polish, then herbal notes like thyme, a whiff of petrol, but then also a subtle fruity note. Think bananas but also pineapple and some stone fruit. Some liquorice and pencil shavings too. Then walnuts and a hint of shoe polish. Not a light rum by any means, but not the dirty Caroni profile either.
Mouth: brass polish, hints of rosemary and liquorice, with a firm salty note. Then spicy oak, bitter marmalade, some boot polish and tobacco. Hints of roasted coffee beans as well, along with more walnuts.
Finish: fairly long, with a medicinal note, more tobacco and a very subtle hint of raisins.
One of the lighter version, reminding me of Tortuga II in a way. Caroni is never a dull choice. Still available from Distilia. Score: 88/100
Caroni 28 yo 1998 (58,1%, Oxhead Whisky / Lucky Choice / Bar Shelter 2026, bourbon barrel #37, 190 btl.)
Nose: more expressive than the previous one. There’s a varnished side to it (polished furniture) but also a sweet side (mango and roasted pineapple). In the middle there is the typical engine oil, liquorice, ginger and charred oak. Some burnt vanilla and toffee notes as well.
Mouth: quite bold, with lots of liquorice notes, hints of tar and smoke, as well as a firm saltiness. Also bitter espresso, hints of menthol, a little eucalyptus and tobacco. Oak char and a little pine resin too.
Finish: long and drying, with phenolic notes, liquorice, tarry notes and earthy oak.
Much more classic, with all the extreme aromas and flavours you’d expect from Caroni. Available from Hi Liquor. Score: 90/100
SVN 21 yo 2003 (61,3%, Vagabond Spirits ‘Silva Collection’ 2025, ex-bourbon cask + TDL finish, 50 cl, 240 btl.)
Nose: some varnished oak but also intense fruits. Apricots, stewed plums and apples, maybe a hint of fermenting pineapple. Mentholated notes, subtle tar and green olives. Then mossy and earthy notes. Perhaps a little more restrained in terms of ester levels than the Grand Arôme we had some time ago, but not much behind.
Mouth: ripe bananas, vanilla sweetness, more peaches and some biscuity notes lead the way. Then a wee rubbery note before it turns towards dried herbs, some black tea, black olives, heavy liquorice and hints of nail polish. There’s a smoky touch but also floral elements at the top.
Finish: long, a bit leathery, with tarry hints, bitter herbs, coffee and varnished notes.
I believe this was the oldest Savanna ever bottled (at the time). The added layer of Trinidad notes makes it even richer and more powerful. Score: 89/100