Decadent Drinks recently introduced a new series named Decadent Grapes. The first release is an Amontillado 1951 from Bodegas Toro Albalá. With this wine the bottler is venturing into the fortified wines of Andalusia for the first time.
Toro Albalá is located in the Montilla region near Córdoba. They are best known for their high-aged sweet PX wines, but they have dry styles as well. While most will link the name Amontillado to sherry wines, this is technically not a sherry. It is a separate denomination about 200 km further inland from Jerez. The wine Amontillado was named after this region, it literally means in the style of Montilla. Since it was so far from the shipping ports, Fino from Montilla underwent some oxidation along the way, becoming a style on its own. Locals think of this as the ultimate dry style because it combines the characteristic ageing under flor (usually around 8 years) with a (much longer) oxidative influence.
It says 1951 but in fact at Toro Albalá vintage Amontillados and Palo Cortados are labelled with the year that the oxidative ageing process began, instead of the harvest year. So a 1951 Amontillado started in the early 1940s.
Montilla is not Jerez
In Montilla they work exlusively with Pedro Ximénez grapes, even for the dry styles like Fino or Amontillado. The ripeness of the fruit in this (inland) climate and the natural sugar levels of the grape variety result in a higher glycerol richness than what you usually get in Jerez. Add to this a lengthy ageing and concentration and you get a high natural alcohol volume of 21% ABV.
Good to see Decadent Drinks is trying to put a spotlight on these wines that share a lot of history with whisky. Amontillado would be my number one suggestion for whisky drinkers who want to discover sherry. If this sells reasonably well, it may be the birth of an impressive series.
Toro Albalá Amontillado 1951 (21%, Decadent Drinks ‘Decadent Grapes’ 2026, single butt #279, 200 btl.)
Nose: very wide and seductive. Furniture polish and fabrics in the sun, mixed with some pickled lemons and sour plums, as well as sweeter candied orange peels and burnt sugar. Toffee and salted caramel, roasted almonds and walnuts. Light hints of apricot jam. Subtle coffee in the distance. Then there’s a slightly volatile / balsamic quality to it, which makes it really elegant. In fact there’s also a brandy-like side to it. You could smell this for hours.
Mouth: totally dry, now with piercing acidity coming out. The lightest jammy hint, but most of the perceived sweetness of the nose is gone. There’s a hint of Liège syrup though. Lemony notes and cantaloupe, with a good oaky sourness and a distinct salty touch. Then toasted hazelnuts, more orange peels, along with exotic spice. A racey, sharp edge and a very light chestnut tang as well. Drying leathery notes. Mildly bitter almonds and herbs in the end.
Finish: very long. It brings back the sweeter notes, hints of pistachio and warming oak.
A very refined yet incredibly ample Amontillado, very close to the original release which the bodega released a couple of years ago. Due to the brandy-like edge this will certainly appeal to whisky lovers, so let’s hope this attracts a new audience to the wines of Andalusia. Available from Decadent Drinks or partners like Master of Malt.