Diageo’s 2025 Special Releases have arrived. The aura of this series isn’t what it used to be: prices are really high and at the same time retailers are complaining they are still trying to sell bottles Special Release from three years ago. The time they were truly special, or at least rare names and ages, are also far behind us. In fact I’ve even heard the rumour that this may well be the final edition.
Last year’s Lagavulin 12 Years (2024) was excellent, in my opinion, mostly because of its clean character from classic bourbon and refill casks. This time they used a slightly less common mix including Pedro Ximénez and Oloroso casks.
The label doesn’t state sherry so they may have used casks from nearby regions. Remember the names Oloroso and Pedro Ximénez are styles of wines that can also be produced in other DOs around Spain.
Lagavulin 12 Years ‘Grain & Embers’ (56,5%, OB Special Releases 2025, refill casks + PX / Oloroso seasoned casks)
Nose: don’t expect a lot of PX or Oloroso sweetness. Instead it’s entirely on earthy and coastal notes, sharp iodine, some bread dough and a musky undertone. More on phenolic notes (new plastics) than on warming bonfires as well. Then dried seaweed, some singed grapefruit peels and green olive brine. Back to toasted rye bread crust and damp moss. Just a light hint of caramelized hazelnuts in the background, but overall pretty raw.
Mouth: intense coastal notes again, along with a little (green) chilli heat and liquorice. Much bigger ashy notes than the nose suggested. Some medicinal notes. Mid-palate some dark sweetness sets in, like dark chocolate, followed by nice hints of roasted coffee beans and walnuts. Towards the finish it moves back to savoury / charred notes, with black peppercorns and brine.
Finish: medium to long, still showing coffee beans, cold ashes, black pepper and a leafy edge.
I would have loved to see a more intense PX / Oloroso character, a cask strength / age stated Distiller’s Edition so to speak. As it stands the label sets expectations it can’t meet, although I really like that coffee theme on the palate. I’ve reviewed over a dozen Lagavulin 12s and this ends up somewhere in the middle. The price is high: around € 160-170. Already available from international retailers like The Whisky Exchange for instance, or plenty of local shops in your country. Meanwhile the previous release is down to € 130 in most places.