Wait, another 52 year-old after Angus’ Glen Garioch? That’s right. This Ben Nevis 1973 was bottled some time ago by the guys at Dornoch Castle.
I met the Thompson Brothers at the Limburg Whisky Fair a couple of weeks ago. Lovely chaps. First they brought me down to earth with a random blind tasting of their Mystery Malt series (if you hadn’t heard about the concept yet – it’s very interesting). It really plays tricks on your mind. After that, this Ben Nevis left a deep impression, even though it was the last stand of the day and I had already tried some stunning things.
Ben Nevis 52 yo 1973 (40,1%, Thompson Bros 2025, two refill hogsheads)
Nose: lots of fruit teas, in a way that reminds us of old cognac. Aromatic peaches, greengages, quinces, gooseberries and yellow orchard fruits. Perhaps a hint of pineapple. Combined with mineral notes this brings us close to Riesling at some point. Then also leather, dried mint, hints of old waxed paper and verbena.
Mouth: a beautiful fruitiness again (oranges, guava, sour apple) with hay, more waxy notes and a subtle dustiness. Chamomile tea. Mixed herbal tea. Then tonka beans and walnuts, dried citrus peels, green grape acidity and a hint of laurel. Not exactly heavy but the low ABV isn’t a problem in my opinion. Still a few old cognac elements, including a subtle rancio / oxidative touch. Subtle vanilla and hints of lightly toasted oak in the end.
Finish: still flashes of bright fruits, some nutty notes and very mild oak spice. Hints of Earl Grey and a pinch of salt in the very end.
An admirable profile for its age, never tired, just very mature. The slightly tropical fruitiness and the relative thinness work very well here. A cognac – whisky crossover in a way. Not perfect but a genuine treat. Still available from the Thompson Brothers.