In August I will head for México, cabrones! While spirits are certainly not my primary objective there, I will pass through the Oaxaca region so I’d really like to visit one or two artisan palenques where they produce mezcal the old way.
I realized there were some samples on my desk of agave distillates. They’s not using the names mezcal or tequila due to regional protection and/or technical restrictions, but they’re virtually the same products, of course. Two were sourced by Swell de Spirits, the other two are Spheric Spirits‘ own production (!) as far as I know.
Chacolo Destilado de Agave 9 yo – 100% Liñeno (45,3%, Swell de Spirits ‘Made in Mexico’ 2023)
Nose: a lot of lime and mint leaves, along with hints of cataloupe melon and molasses sweetness. Then also less common notes of yoghurt or even tzatziki, wet minerals. Even hints of cooked potatoes and wet newspaper.
Mouth: quite unique and not smoky. It’s full of citrusy notes, but also lemon pie, a nice earthy / muddy note and more of this peppermint. Rather round and creamy, with a hint of meringue and lemon frosting, thyme and wet stone. A hint of salted sourdough and leather comes out in the end.
Finish: not too long, slightly drying on herbal / mineral notes, lemon and some vegetal notes.
Made from the maguey Liñeno, one of 14 Angustifolias grown by the Partida family of producers Chacolo. Really great mezcal, moderately funky, but very round and balanced at the same time – easy to note the craftmanship here. Still available from Swell de Spirits.
Cascahuin Tequila Blanco 8 yo – 100% Agave Azul (47%, Swell de Spirits 2025, 5000 btl.)
Nose: much more narrow. There’s punchy citrus, along with black peppercorns and light grassy notes. Then minty notes, some vegetal oils and aniseed. It stays rather closed even after some time in the glass.
Mouth: same narrow profile. Vague leafy notes, with lemon juice and a hint of juniper. Cooked greens, a little orange zest, cloves, anise and pickle water. Wet earthy notes come out later, but everything seems a little washed out.
Finish: medium, slightly oily with a vague bittersweet edge and grassy lemons.
You know these wodkas that claim to be the smoothest of all? I’ve never quite understood how that would give you bragging rights. Here as well the tequila is a little too smooth and delicate to get me excited. Still available from Swell de Spirits. Score: 81/100
Destilado de Agave 2018 – Tepextate Silvestre (57,8%, Spheric Spirits 2022)
Nose: a lot sharper, with a lot more esters, maybe even a whiff of acetone. There’s a bakery edge to it as well, but also lots of stone minerality and wildflowers. A hint of fragrant stone fruit candy underneath. Then more lemons, dusty notes and a little green bell pepper. Hardly any smoke but a very light hint of peat perhaps.
Mouth: suddenly sweet and slightly candied now. Cotton candy or peach? Just flashes though, quickly overtaken by minerality again, a little pine resin and leather, as well as a mild vegetal bitterness.
Finish: quite long, with a leathery dryness, subtle fresh herbs and a slightly alcoholic note.
A lot wilder than the Chalaco and Cascahuin, but somehow also less craft in a way, with a certain raw edge but also highly surprising notes. Good fun. Score: 84/100
Destilado de Agave 2018 – Tobalá Silvestre (59,5%, Spheric Spirits 2022)
Nose: slightly more subdued and classical again, with a slightly more pronounced earthiness and fragrant smoke (incense-like at some point). Then hints of overripe tropical fruits, like fermenting pineapple and mango, maybe ripe banana. Great nose.
Mouth: ah yes, definitely more tropical. There’s an initial wave of pineapple and guava, with some straberry sweetness along the way. Mid-palate it develops a nice sweet-and-sour note, along with a briny note. After that it becomes more industrial and sharp.
Finish: long but even more tangy, with lime zest and herbs and this alcoholic edge again.
Another fun one, a little rough but the tropical fruity notes are great here, and rather unexpected for agave spirits. Score: 87/100