A quick session with some of the latest releases from Christian Dully. Two of them are sherried (although the mockups are far from realistic, mind you) and one is an interesting Château d’Yquem cask (Sauternes).
Bruichladdich 15 yo 2010 (53,1%, C. Dully Selection 2026, Château d’Yquem cask #201002231, 265 btl.)
Nose: rich and sweet, with lot of dried apricots and syrupy citrus, along with honeyed notes and vanilla. Then raisins, quince jam and simply a malty sweetness. Almond paste. Dessert-style whisky, easy to notice the Sauternes. Just enough freshness and a subtle coastal note too, along with a hint of fresh oak.
Mouth: very sweet again, on stewed bananas, more peaches on syrup and apricot jam. A lot of honey really. Then vanilla custard and saltanas. Somehow with all this sweetness there seems to be a boozy note as well. Light hints of white pepper and tangy clove – the jammy sweetness dominates but there seems to be a light astringency.
Finish: long, tangy, on apricots, bitter Seville oranges and some wine tannins. Some saltiness in the distance.
We know Bruichladdich takes sweet dessert-wines well, but here it feels like a 50-50 blend of two types of alcohol. Not entirely my style, this one, mainly due to the astringency that sets in at the end.
Highland Park 21 yo 2005 (58,8%, C. Dully Selection 2026, sherry hogshead #37, 300 btl.)
Nose: nicely aromatic and leathery sherry, with orange peels, some cherry clafoutis and herbal tea. Then walnuts, polished oak and back to dried fruits like preserved apricots and dried figs. Subtle beeswax, a little cinnamon and a cognac-like rancio note. Really classy.
Mouth: a little hot, with generous black pepper and a hint of capsicum, but also heather honey, dried fruit sweetness and fruit cake. Sweetened black tea, more bittersweet orange peels, as well as mildly acrid smoke. Also marmalade and quince jelly, along with a hint of salted liquorice.
Finish: quite long, on drying leather, wood spice, a hint of walnuts and Seville orange.
Spicy power and intense sherry. A bit more (modern) wood influence than most of the official releases, but it shows a certain elegance as well. Score: 89/100
Ledaig 18 yo 2008 (56,8%, C. Dully Selection 2026, sherry butt #700260, 239 btl.)
Nose: a nice, slightly diesel-y profile, evolving towards leather polish and sea spray. Then also a sweet layer of chocolate and raisins, sweet ashes and hints of dark honey. Hints of candied lemons and charred herbs. Subtle tar in the background. As it becomes earthier, it reminds me of (older) Ardbeg at times.
Mouth: oily, with a lot of warming peat smoke, earthy and tarry. This mixes with dark roast coffee beans, smoked prune and black peppercorns. Then back to charred herbs, allspice, a little brine and charcoal. Wee vegetal notes and a hint of antiseptic as well.
Finish: long, tarry and herbal, with salty notes and dark chocolate.
Quite a powerhouse, full of earthy ashes. A dark and brooding LedaigScore: 89/100