A new release in the dumpy bottles (which means 30+ years old in the Connoisseurs Choice range): Mortlach 1988 from a refill sherry hogshead. As good as the previous Mortlach from Gordon & MacPhail? Let’s hope so.
Mortlach 30 yo 1988
(48,8%, Gordon & MacPhail ‘Connoisseurs Choice’ 2018, refill American oak sherry hogshead #4839, 129 btl.)
Nose: intriguing mix of subtle fruits (overripe melon and apples, a little redcurrant), flowers (freesia), lemon meringue and linseed oil. Whiffs of damp chalk. Beehive notes. Crushed leaves, bits of moss…
Mouth: quite punchy, with honey and something vaguely fruity, but also buttery touches, a little rubber, vanilla cream. Then fruit teas (with a minty, slightly soapy hint), beeswax, bitter almonds, tobacco. Ginger and oak. No meaty notes.. My notes are not really coherent but neither is the whisky, mind you.
Finish: medium, a little oak char, leather and spices.
Quite an intriguing Mortlach that can’t be pigeonholed. I kept going back to the sample and wished I had more. Maybe not a classic beauty, but a massive personality in any case. Available from The Whisky Exchange.