After nine months of sustained efforts, Malternative Belgium became the first independent bottler to release cognac from Delamain & Cie. To celebrate this occasion, they organised a culinary experience at Restaurant Taratata in Hasselt, Belgium. It was called Gastronomic Waves #1, suggesting it will be the first of a whole series of cognac-oriented dinners.
Managing Director and Cellar Master Charles Braastad of Delamain presented five of their products, each paired to a dish. Actually six if you count the Bollinger PN TX20 Champagne (part of the same group as Delamain).
Delamain cognacs
The first cognac was the Delamain Pale & Dry XO, the cornerstone expression of the house. It consists of only Grande Champagne grapes, like the entire Delamain portfolio for that matter. It’s a very velvety and smooth cognac with fruity notes like apricots, as well as vanilla and mild almond notes. Already a really nice cognac at the start of the range.
Then came Delamain La Rambaudie, a vineyard acquired in 2019. This offered a lot of fruity notes again (slightly more stewed now, with hints of cherries and figs as well), along with an earthy touch and mild spice, perfectly matched to charred lettuce with miso.
The last one of the evening was Delamain L’Oiseau Rare, an expression launched for the 200th anniversary of the brand in 2024. It contains spirits up to 60 years of age. A highly balanced composition of pears, oranges and jasmine, light Muscat notes and subtle nutty touches. While very refined, it was also a little subtle at 40% ABV – in that sense it’s a bit of an old-school bottling which may not entirely blow away whisky drinkers.
In between we had the two highlights: a Très Vieux Réserve (over 50 years old) bottled exclusively for the event, and the Lot 62 “Le Rossignol” which truly marks the collaboration between Malternative Belgium and Delamain. Not only is this the first independent bottling of Delamain, it is also their first Petite Champagne and the first to exceed 50% alcohol.
Cognac Delamain ‘TV RES’ – Grande Champagne (42,9%, Malternative Belgium ‘Gastronomic Waves’ 2025, 42 btl.)
Nose: stewed fruits, like apricots and quinces, as well as tangerines and whiffs of mango jam. Then hints of pollen and gorse flowers, as well as some honeyed notes. Subtle mint and citrus green tea. Light oily touches, as well as some leather. Really good, although you have to work on it a little due to the modest ABV.
Mouth: the taste is more expressive, with plenty of fruity notes again. More tangerines, mango and plummy notes, combined with a mentholy freshness and delicate rancio. Orange peels and honey. A mild oaky and spicy note towards the end, as well as some pink grapefruit.
Finish: medium to long, on fruit tea, tangerines and mint, always elegant.
This one comes with a bespoke ceramic support by Studio Pieter Stockmans. Great aromas and flavours here, a wonderfully bright profile revolving around tangerines, mint and subtle rancio. A fitting selection for the occasion. That said, the ABV (cask strength, mind you) makes it a little soft-voiced, even a little shy on the nose. Once you’ve tried the Lot 62 there’s so much more intensity there! This bottle was sold out quickly after the event.
Cognac Delamain ‘Lot 62’ – Petite Champagne (54,4%, Malternative Belgium 2025, 198 btl.)
Nose: ah, so expressive! A lot of polished furniture, beeswax and fresh leather. Tobacco leaves and ethereal oils in the distance. Then hints of dried apricots, pineapples, mandarins, some juicy cherries and waxed orange peel. Orange blossoms too. Soft cardamom and thyme underneath, along with a subtle chalky touch.
Mouth: a firm onset, with a striking width. Really punchy. Some tangerine, lychee and apricot, as well as candied figs, bergamot notes and jasmine. Lovely juiciness. There’s a drying wave of chalky notes and mentholy pine, but always in an elegant way. Then some fine spice and leather towards the end.
Finish: really long, still minty with candied fruits, tobacco leaves and a light hint of caramelized nuts.
An outsider of course, kind of an ‘excess stock’ among the bigger Grande Champagne. Charles explained he sometimes needs to buy multiple casks in order to acquire one he really wants, and sometimes the things that don’t necessarily fit the business plan turn out to be jewels. It is slightly more marked by the cask than the Gastronomic Waves release, but I think it really stands out. Still available from Malternative Belgium. Score: 92/100
In conclusion, the entire event was a perfect fit. Great food, excellent pairings, a passionate audience and above all some exquisite cognac. Let’s hope it was the first evening in a long series.