On my latest trip to Macau I also had a quick visit to Hong Kong. The last stop was the Abyss Whisky Bar at Causeway Bay. A small bar with an impressive selection of whiskies, allowing you to try the majority of hot releases from the Asian scene.
Two of the drams they offered me stood out: one is a Clynelish 1993 (a Lucky Choice release) and the other a Mortlach 1991 (shared with Taiwanese and Japanese brands).
Clynelish 31 yo 1993 (47,8%, Lucky Choice & Abyss Whisky Bar 2025, bourbon barrel #11085)
Nose: this is the 1970s style of Clynelish. Truckloads of wax candles with wildflower honey, warming hints of hay, sunflower oil and plenty of fruits. That would be ripe yellow apples, stewed mango, Cantaloupe melon and light papaya. Underneath also natural vanilla, rice pudding and a whiff of sandalwood.
Mouth: quite a avalanche of warm and creamy fruits. Stewed apricot, creamy banana and mango, or maybe mango sticky rice. Some biscuity character with vanilla. Mid-palate there are brighter flashes of passion fruit. Then more beehive notes like honey and beeswax. Some minerality and chalk in the background, as well as refreshing citrus and balanced oak. Some pepper towards the end.
Finish: quite long, slightly leaner, on citrus and mango. Also minerals with a subtle herbal edge.
This was one of the first drams I tried at the WhiskyShine festival in Macau. No need to tell you I headed off with a big smile. It’s impressive how Asian bottlers seem to have access to the absolute gems nowadays. Lovely waxiness, paired to a rich fruitiness. Presented in the old-style cognac bottle with green glass and a waxed stopper, so it’s an all-round work of art really. To be fair, this should have been in my Best whiskies of 2025 overview.
Mortlach 33 yo 1991 (52,8%, Abyss + Aqua Vitae + Shinanoya + Bar Aiba 2024, sherry butt #75428, 213 btl.)
Nose: full of tobacco leaves, along with other lovely notes like polished furniture, cinnamon and walnuts. Then Christmas cake, some figs, raisins and red berries, as well as some strawberry jam and subtle drops of coffee. Very wide, all the way from dark chocolate to floral honey and eucalyptus. The typical Mortlach meatiness is present, but only in a very mild form – I’m not complaining.
Mouth: now prunes take the upper hand, with cinnamon, raisins and more tobacco. Chocolate definitely. Then hints of cedar and eucalyptus, as well as whiffs of black peppercorns and eucalyptus. Maybe light leather. Again there’s a certain robustness, but overall it’s really elegant.
Finish: long, now drier, on black tea, dried herbs, some pepper and echoes of dried fruits.
My kinda Mortlach: only marginally meaty and dominated by old-style sherry instead. A very complete and simply stupendous whisky. Wonderful selection work. Score: 91/100