Gordon & MacPhail is launching the Connoisseurs Choice Heritage Collection, a new way of celebrating George Urquhart. He launched the Connoisseurs Choice range in 1968, providing enthusiasts the opportunity to try whisky from distilleries that were rarely available as single malts. For this occasion G&M is reviving the old map label which adorned the series between 1988 and 1996. For more information on the evolution of the series, check this WhiskyAuctioneer article.
It’s remarkable that most of the whiskies on offer today were already bottled as far back as 2021. I assume they are leftovers of previous bottlings, or simply casks with a very small yield that didn’t have a clear destination at that time. Only 100 sets will be available, brought together in a nice wooden case. You can now register your interest to buy volume 1 – other volumes will follow later.
Dallas Dhu 50 yo 1971 (43,7%, Gordon & MacPhail ‘Connoisseurs Choice Heritage Collection’ 2021, refill American hogshead)
Nose: the kind of complexity that only comes with age. Waxed paper, subtle mossy notes, but also nice hints of apricot jam, subtle yellow plums and honey. Whiffs of marzipan and walnuts. In the background also a little celeriac and dried cardamom. Just a hint of dusty book cover, which is perfect here.
Mouth: very oily, with an almost buttery texture. There’s a warmth that keeps the middle between pepper and menthol, along with some nutmeg. Then a few drops of herbal tea, some hay, but also brighter notes of orange and apple. Nice leafy tobacco and dried sage towards the end.
Finish: right, not very long and the wood comes forward, but there’s still honey and a warming spicy note and it’s never dry.
Despite the modest ABV, this doesn’t feel tired or weak. On the contrary, it’s a lovely old profile. Something happens at such high age – a lovely start of this series.
Benromach 48 yo 1976 (43,8%, Gordon & MacPhail ‘Connoisseurs Choice Heritage Collection’ 2025, first-fill sherry hogshead)
Nose: soft apple and peach, even a touch of banana. Bright and slightly tart bourbon cask fruits, especially if you give it time to unfold. Sourish Haribo, so to speak. Light wax as well. Then some robust malt, leafy notes, nutmeg and sappy wood as well. Whiffs of orange blossom honey and old leather too.
Mouth: hints of cedar at its base, with cigar leaves and a wonderful cinnamon warmth. On top of this we get more ripe fruits, like tangerines and yellow apples. Perhaps a spoon of apricot jam and mead as well. Subtle resinous touches, walnuts and ginger.
Finish: medium long, nicely minty, with cinnamon and malt.
Perhaps a little less beyond than the Dallas Dhu and more in a ‘modern’ old style, if that makes sense. If you know the Benromach 1970s casks released around 2016-2017, this will be familiar. Score: 91/100
Glenlochy 43 yo 1979 (53,6%, Gordon & MacPhail ‘Connoisseurs Choice Heritage Collection’ 2023, refill American hogshead)
Nose: the higher ABV adds some oak polish and mint, along with an almost balsamic edge. Balsa wood and hints of allspice. Then hints of rancio and old books, but also subtle vanilla and moderate fruity notes, think melons, guava and pears. Orange oil and pollen after a while.
Mouth: a spicy onset, with white pepper and ginger, as well as some sandalwood. Mid-palate it becomes slightly sweeter, with hints of dark berries, maybe candied pineapple and barley sugar. Then back to mint chocolate, cinnamon and nutmeg, with a little more woodiness in general.
Finish: long, slightly more savoury, with light cask char and herbal notes.
This packs a lot more punch and some Highlands robustness but also fruits. Intense and perhaps a little more complex than the others, but it doesn’t have the immediate seductive charm either. Glad to finally try a second Glenlochy, fourteen years after the first one. Score: 91/100