We’ve tried a large range of bottlings from Hogshead Imports in the past two years or so. Some have been really good, but other were sometimes marred by weird cask choices. Today we’re trying a couple of older releases, mostly from refill casks.
Aultmore 15 yo 2009 (48%, Hogshead Imports 2024, refill hogshead, 412 btl.)
Nose: walking into a bodega. A nice dustiness, rather exotic toasted woods and mulching leaves. However there’s also a jammy sweetness underneath, with cooked strawberries and plums, as well as some Spanish pan de higo.
Mouth: a good mix of darkness and sweetness again. A lot of figs and dates, along with tobacco leaves, cinnamon pastry and some coffee candy. Still this oriental style of woodiness, nice. There’s also a distinct oily / industrial note which works really well. Drops of old Marsala. Then hints of cocoa and baking spice, like pepper and ginger.
Finish: medium length, getting drier now, with more obvious wood.
Maybe not the most typical Aultmore profile, but the sherry casks added heaps of character to this whisky. I like it a lot.
Aultmore 14 yo 2009 (57,7%, Hogshead Imports 2024, refill hogshead, 86 btl.)
Nose: the same kind of darkness, now revolving around mocha, chocolate brownies, figs and cigar boxes. The leafy notes are more pronounced as well, with less of the fruitier elements. Mostly dates.
Mouth: the strength gives it a brandy-like profile now, like a Brandy de Jerez matured in PX casks. Black pepper, nutmeg and ginger, along with a herbal and mentholated side. Tobacco, obviously. The 48% version seemed a little cleaner, whereas this is slightly flattened – could be a Pedro Ximénez cask?
Finish: longer, with the same drying effect, Mediterranean herbs and lingering chocolate.
The same cask, bottled slightly earlier at higher strength? I don’t think so, the difference seems to be significant. Certainly the same style though, but the lower strength makes it more balanced. Score: 86/100
The Speyside 9 yo 2014 (56,9%, Hogshead Imports 2024, first-fill Vin Santo octave, 72 btl.)
Nose: quite dark again, with a deeper vinous side now. A lot of raisins and prunes, but also actual red grapes. Some charred oak, bread crust and hints of marmalade. Then some treacle toffee, with a hint of red wine tannins – let’s see whether the palate confirms this.
Mouth: yes, much in the style of a Super Tuscan. Raisins, plums and fresh grapes, with pepper, some barks and earthy notes (wet soil). Quite a lot of oak, with caramelized notes, gingerbread and orange peels. Then back to treacle toffee.
Finish: long, on dried fruits, baking spice and a hint of chocolate.
We had other Hogshead bottlings from Vin Santo casks. This one is much better, less savoury and more balanced. There’s always this feeling of mulled wine though. Score: 83/100
Glentauchers 11 yo 2013 (57,2%, Hogshead Imports for Chichibu Matsuri 2024, refill barrel, 262 btl.)
Nose: nice orchard fruits. Pears, rhubarb, some green plums and a refreshing minty edge. Maybe some green banana. Then some blossomy notes, light green tea and whiffs of chalk. In short: the green side of the spectrum.
Mouth: bright fruits, really young in a way but very attractive. Apple candy, more bananas and lemon sweets. Utterly fruity, only showing a light hint of white pepper. Then a little vanilla cream and powder sugar.
Finish: medium length, very rounded still, with lots of orchard fruits and a subtle peppery note.
A refill barrel, such a clever cask choice! This highlights the estery spirit of Glentauchers, with such easy-going fruits. Keep a bottle for summertime. Score: 87/100
Islay Single Malt 13 yo 2010 (55,8%, Hogshead Imports 2024, refill barrel, 304 btl.)
Nose: earthy and lightly meaty at first (Cecina de León). It keeps the middle between the old Ardbeg profile and modern production. Then more coastal notes, like tarry fisherman’s rope, coal smoke, smoked mackerel and dried seaweed. Also subtle herbs, iodine and a brighter hint of lemongrass.
Mouth: really oily, on slightly vegetal peat, bacon and tarry hints, but also a little vanilla and almost a buttery texture. Brine, savoury leaves, more smoked fish and hints of charred citrus.
Finish: long, sweeter again, with vanilla, barbecue ashes, lacquered bacon and black pepper.
A very convincing bottling again. Score: 89/100