At the Whisky Fair in Germany, a couple of weeks ago, Maltbarn presented its latest batch of whisky bottlings. A few of them have labels that refer to famous music albums, and these are the ones we’ll be trying first.
There are familiar names, as Maltbarn tends to release similar casks (or parts of casks) several times over the course of a few years. However there’s also Glen Mosset – a name that we’ve only seen with Maltbarn so far, if I’m not mistaken. It appears to be the disguise of Benromach.
Glenlossie 29 yo 1995 (49,2%, Maltbarn 2025, bourbon cask, 156 btl.)
Nose: very aromatic, with plenty of sweet pears, vineyard peaches, quinces, as well as some more tropical notes (bananas). Later it moves towards apricots with waxy undertones (crayons). A little chamomile tea as well. Then also a hint of women’s cream, something blossomy that you get in very old bourbon casks. A great profile.
Mouth: sunflower oil mixed with lemon juice, something gristy and green banana. Sweet at first, but the grassy side of the spirit makes it move towards bittersweet notes. Grapefruit, a chalky touch, some green tea and ginger. A hint of quinine?
Finish: not too long, but crisp, nicely mixing mint, lemon peels and some oaky sweetness.
Pretty much in line with the Glenlossie 1992 they released a couple of years ago. An excellent profile with the seductive side of long ageing but also a punk edge. Exactly.
Aberlour 22 yo 2003 (52,7%, Maltbarn 2025, sherry cask, 193 btl.)
Nose: orchard fruits – apples, peaches, sweet and sour berries. Some walnuts, honey and subtle sweet leafy notes. Just a hint of leather and cedar wood perhaps.
Mouth: same feeling. Balanced sherry notes, like berry sweetness, green walnuts and subtle hints of tobacco. Then some hazelnut, citrus peels, peppery notes, a very light cherry note and a slowly growing drier side (old wood).
Finish: good length, with more nutty and leafy notes and a pleasant hint of apple peelings.
I get the idea: an old style of sherry with a few rustic elements, but also a nice balance. Now it’s all perfectly clean but maybe not as unique as some others. Score: 86/100
Longmorn 16 yo 2008 (53,4%, Maltbarn 2025, sherry cask, 177 btl.)
Nose: pleasant, with apricot sweetness, stewed plums and apples, stem ginger and hints of sultanas. Then there’s a light syrupy (late harvest) note underneath which adds weight. Some round vanilla notes, orange candy and oaky spices too. After a while it becomes markedly nutty.
Mouth: a similar mix of rich fruity notes, both fresh and dried. Apricots in the lead, with raisins and yellow plums. Baking spice follows closely (pepper, ginger, clove) and almost takes the upper hand. Then some poached apple and a bit of cinnamon.
Finish: long, now the nutty side takes overly entirely. Hazelnuts, milk chocolate and a hint of mocha.
At first I thought this bottling would highlight the fruiy side of Longmorn, but the sherry takes over eventually. Good complexity here. Score: 87/100
Glen Mosset 11 yo 2013 (54,6%, Maltbarn 2025, bourbon cask, 154 btl.)
Nose: lightly smoky, with some oak dusting and hay, old apples and oranges, as well as a mossy undertone and ferns. Then oily notes and old metal tools, along with charcoal and chiffon leather. Lime peelings and soft herbs too. Good.
Mouth: mild citrus fruits (mostly grapefruit), but this is more about paraffin, ashes and some chalk. Then more herbal notes, a subtle coastal edge (brine) and mineral smoke. Leafy notes, a sour touch and hints of parsnips. Right when it fades a honeyed / fruity flash appears.
Finish: medium to long, slightly muddy, back to minerals and herbal extract, with subtle ashy hints.
In line with the official releases, so that’s good news already. Lovely mineral sharpness, herbal notes and very subtle smoke. May I suggest this as an alternative to Springbank? Score: 89/100