The Limburg festival is coming up. Since some people are asking me about it: yes, I will be there on Saturday. Don’t hestitate to come over and say hello.
Maltbarn will present a series of new releases in Limburg, six if I’m not mistaken. We’ve had a sneak peak so here are our first thoughts on the Ben Nevis 1996, Benriach 1995, Balmenach 2002 and Tullibardine 1993. Most of these are names and vintages that we’ve seen before, perhaps split casks.
Ben Nevis 29 yo 1996 (47,6%, Maltbarn 2026, bourbon cask, 152 btl.)
Nose: bingo. A very waxy profile, quite sophisticated. Ripe pears, some quinces and hay. But really it is mostly about vegetal oils, some rubbed lemon skins and green leaves, along with subtle drops of menthol and whiffs of wool. High complexity.
Mouth: not bursting with fruits – mostly about the sweetish oiliness again. Beeswax, paraffin and pollen, mixed with chalk. Mid-palate some ripe mango and peach comes out, with candied lemon peels. Some greengages, a subtle savoury hint and mint.
Finish: quite long, mineral and waxy, with a subtle rooty edge.
Other casks may be fruitier, sure. However in terms of waxiness and sheer elegance this is a great bottling. Be sure to check this out at the Malbarn stand.
Tullibardine 32 yo 1993 (47,1%, Maltbarn 2026, bourbon + Madeira casks, 158 btl.)
Nose: well-dosed winey notes, along with a clear nuttiness (peanuts, walnuts), some fudge and vague hints of wild strawberry. Then subtle bready notes and an earthy touch, as well as a dusty ‘old’ woodiness, cardboard and some parsley. A bit uncommon but it works.
Mouth: a bit more classical now, perhaps closer to Oloroso too. More walnuts and peanuts, a good dose of dried herbs and a bit of leather, but also dried fruits (orange peels, dark berries). A slightly mustardy sharpness.
Finish: medium long, with a subtle vinosity, lingering dried fruits and walnuts.
A rich Tullibardine with a nice un-modern character. The Madeira is a good match and add some interesting touches, even though there’s also a winey edge. Score: 88/100
Benriach 31 yo 1995 (49,6%, Maltbarn 2026, sherry cask, 130 btl.)
Nose: ripe apples, greengages and gooseberries, with some rougher chalky notes and lemon peels. Hints of light beer and wool, as well as a grassiness that makes it seemingly younger than it is. It wouldn’t surprise me if this were a Fino cask.
Mouth: still chalky, now also peppery with some green tea. Then yellow fruits, green apples and melons. Orange peels and a touch of leather. Later back to sour mineral notes, a little porridge, lemon pith and grassy elements.
Finish: medium long, with leafy notes and vegetal oils, as well as some nice bready hints.
I’m not sure what to think of Benriach. It’s clear that the recent production doesn’t reach the fruitiness nor the richness of the 1970s or 1980s distillate. Overall it’s a greener, more mineral and more malty style. Now bad at all, just a little less seductive. Score: 87/100
Balmenach 24 yo 2002 (52,4%, Maltbarn 2026, sherry cask, 164 btl.)
Nose: a light sherry style again, with herbal notes that become quite fragrant. Rosemary, lemon peels, hints of prickly pears. Sunflower oil and bready notes. Then a hint of toffee sweetness in the background, but also a faint chalky note, keeping a nice balance.
Mouth: a very malty malt. Bready notes and muesli at first. Mid-palate a nice wave of citrus fruits (tangerines, limes) comes out, bright and sweet at first, before moving towards grapefruit, white pepper and a slightly drying herbalness and grassy notes.
Finish: medium, still quite peppery, malty and grassy.
Maybe not totally exciting, but a good and reasonably fresh whisky nonetheless. In line with the previous bottling. Score: 85/100