Old Orkney, Old Islay, Benrinnes, Mortlach (Decadent Drinks)

Old Orkney, Old Islay, Benrinnes, Mortlach (Decadent Drinks)

Here’s our timely review of some of Decadent Drinks‘ releases. We start with an Old Orkney and Old Islay, from the new Island series. Then there are two Decadent Drams: a deeply sherried Benrinnes 1997 and a bourbon-influenced Mortlach 2005.

 

Old Orkney 8 yo 2016 (47%, Decadent Drinks 2026, bourbon + sherry casks)

Nose: quite a vegetal start, with musty leaves. Bay leaves and subtle mint. Later it opens up towards dried apricot and raisins, along with some vanilla and yellow apple. Some sea spray, heathery notes and lemon peels. Just a mild sooty note and black pepper in the background.

Mouth: richer fruity sweetness, with more dried fruits, hints of charred pineapple and stewed apples. Now more coal smoke as well, as well as burnt herbs and a salty hint. Then honey and earthy touches. Still a lot of leafy notes too.

Finish: quite long and quite savoury again, with black peppercorns, salty peat and heather.

An easy-going Orkney that offers more complexity than the price would suggest. I’m not the biggest fan of the savoury side but it’s very characterful, no doubt. Available from Decadent Drinks or partners like The Whisky Exchange.

 

 

Old Islay – Bunnahabhain 21 yo 2004 (55%, Decadent Drinks 2026, first-fill Oloroso + PX butts and hogshead, 296 btl.)

Old Islay - Bunnahabhain 21 Years - Decadent Drinks

Nose: a nice balance between dry and sweet sherry notes. Red berries, plums and strawberry jam. Then cedarwood, cinnamon and nutmeg. Some salted walnuts, just a little varnish and leathery notes.

Mouth: spicier now. Nutmeg and black pepper, along with a woody warmth and peanuts. Then more leather, a little hazelnut and salted caramel. Brown sugar too. Not exactly fruity, but there’s a nice acidity which lifts the entire profile. Coastal salt too.

Finish: long and drying, slightly rustic even, with chocolate and herbs.

A tad more modern than we’d expect from this bottler. That also includes a good dose of active wood. All good, mind you, the sherry influence is clean and intense. Available from Decadent Drinks and Master of Malt, for instance. Score: 88/100

 

 

Mortlach 20 yo 2005 (50,1%, Decadent Drinks ‘Decadent Drams’ 2026, first-fill bourbon barrel, 179 btl.)

Mortlach 20 Years - Decadent Drams

Nose: full-on waxiness. Candles, sunflower oil, fresh putty. A little hay and dried wildflowers. Then also yellow apples, light melon and lemon oil, along with subtle vanilla. Light peppery notes underneath, as well as a hint of sourdough bread.

Mouth: very textured and waxy again. More lemon oil, vegetal oils, hints of lemon curd mild chalky notes. Then melons and light hints of bitter orange and lemon peels, on a background of bread dough and gorse. It becomes more herbal and mineral towards the end.

Finish: medium to long, with bittersweet green fruits, malty notes and fine herbs.

We had a similar one about a year ago, and this is on the same height. Really waxy, balancing sweetness and austerity – this is the kind of Mortlach I like. Check Decadent Drinks or The Whisky Exchange. Score: 89/100

 

 

Benrinnes 28 yo 1997 (55%, Decadent Drinks 2026, first-fill sherry hogshead, 182 btl.)

Benrinnes 28 Years 1997 - Decadent Drams

Nose: unapologetically sherried. Entirely on prunes, dates and raisins, but also blackcurrant jam and stewed raspberry. A lot of cold coffee and cigars, with cinnamon syrup and chocolate. Beautiful hints of oak polish and hints of brassware. Molasses and hints of armagnac as well.

Mouth: powerful, thick and dark sherry. More prunes, dates and blackberries, with flashes of raspberry. Now there’s also a tannic edge to it, along with tobacco leaves and plenty of leathery dryness. Hints of cranberry, more than a bit of rustic armagnac, drying cocoa powder and some bitter leafy notes in the end.

Finish: quite long, on heavily steeped herbal tea, some coffee, green walnuts, tobacco and armagnac.

A true sherry bomb, full of intensity. This is totally the style of Signatory Vintage (where DD got the cask from). It’s incredibly dense, up to the point where I started to struggle on the palate. Available from Decadent Drinks or Master of Malt, among others. Score: 89/100

  
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