A big load of samples from the Thompson Brothers arrived in Belgium the other day. There’s a lot to choose from, but we went for the Clynelish bottlings first. We’ll start with an old 2001 distillate and then move to younger versions from 2013 and 2014.
I don’t think these are still available, but keep an eye on their online shop for future releases.
Clynelish 24 yo 2001 ‘A Sutherland Dram’ (48,9%, Thompson Brothers 2025, refill hogshead, 135 btl.)
Nose: excellent. Lots of wax candles, beehives and hints of furniture polish. Lemon peels, fresh linen and whiffs of hay. Underneath there’s an almost Riesling-like fruitiness. Aromatic peaches and oranges, as well as light blossomy notes. Then subtle green hints (pine needles, green tea) and a light hint of crushed sea shells.
Mouth: now tart grapefruit and orange, seductive lime and peach, as well as a good dose of tropical fruits like pineapple and guava. The waxiness is lovely, even though the texture isn’t particularly thick. Then sharper pepper and eucalyptus comes out, with floral honey and a hint of candied ginger. Still these chalky notes and a maritime touch.
Finish: long and straight, mixing minerals and lingering fruits.
Only the second time we’re trying a 2001 vintage. This one meets our expectations for a very good Clynelish with a proper waxiness and a perfect balance between fruits and austerity.
Clynelish 11 yo 2014 (48,1%, Thompson Brothers, refill hogshead, 223 btl.)
Nose: a younger and slightly more lactic profile, quickly moving towards grassy hints with plenty of lemons (fresh and candied), unripe pineapples and touches of green banana. Then freshly waxed jacket with hints of fresh oak in the distance.
Mouth: lemon sweetness, now with a firm chalkiness (rather than waxiness). Then a mix of green apple with menthol and white pepper, along with banana bread and some clotted cream. A salty touch and vanilla ice cream as well.
Finish: medium length, on lemon sweetness, honey and mild oak spice.
Also a vintage that we hadn’t tried. Much more simple, but again a very enjoyable and focused mix of lemon, chalk and subtle sweetness. Score: 86/100
Clynelish 12 yo 2013 ‘Hogmanay bottling’ (49,1%, Thompson Brothers 2026, dechar American + French hogsheads, 613 btl.)
Nose: quite aromatic, with hints of cedar, dark ale and some earthy baking spice (light clove), along with sweet toffee. Given the aromatic woodiness, there’s little waxiness to be found, just a slightly more generic oily character.
Mouth: sweet and spicy. The wood is taking the podium now, with toasted notes that remind us of American whiskey at times. Then maple notes, blackberries and caramelized nuts underscore this idea. Some pepper, toffee and subtle leafy hints as well.
Finish: quite long, on liquorice, oak spice and more of that caramelized sweetness.
Not a particularly good Clynelish, in my opinion, but a good whisky on its own. Pretty much the opposite of the previous one, but the quality is on the same level. Score: 86/100
Clynelish 12 yo 2013 (50,5%, Thompson Brothers for Dornoch Castle 25th Anniversary 2025, rejuvenated Hungarian oak barrique #314380, 344 btl.)
Nose: plenty of coppery hints here, along with sour plums, marmalade. Then candied ginger, walnuts coated with dark honey, dried chamomile and salted caramel. Dried herbs and leaves, muesli and subtle blackcurrants as well. Rather complex.
Mouth: toasted wood brings bitterness, or at least bittersweet notes. More dried herbs, liquorice and drops of herbal bitters in an Old Fashioned. Then a hint of tropical fruit syrup, more blackberries and dark honey again. The oiliness is still here.
Finish: medium to long, on forest fruit candy, with minty oak and caramelized notes.
This Hungarian oak comes close to European sherry oak at times, without the sherry. Again not my favourite treatment of Clynelish (my favourite treatment is no treatment) but I like it much better than I expected. Good spirit shines in any type of cask? Discuss. Score: 88/100