There’s not a lot of Cragganmore on the market, especially if you look at independent bottlers. However within a couple of weeks I was presented with two similar casks from 1989. The first was bottled by Kanpaikai and The Antelope in Asia, the other a bit closer by Decadent Drinks.
Cragganmore 35 yo 1989 (50,3%, Kanpaikai & The Antelope 2025, refill hogshead)
Nose: ripe orchard fruits. Apricot nectar, dried pear slices, marmalade and stewed yellow apples. Apple peelings and subtle honeydew melon. Then hints of Japanese fluffy pancakes (my daughters will be delighted that they finally appear in tasting notes) and beeswax, along with warming oak, rich honey and a little potpourri. Malty cereals and almond paste in the background.
Mouth: a tad sharper than I expected. Polished notes, some resinous hints and then a firm hit of citrus green tea. A bit of white pepper. Then the sweetness comes back, with a slightly buttery texture. Yellow fruits (fresh plums, ripe pears) and plenty of oranges. Then some brown sugar before it gets more spicy and herbal.
Finish: the herbal notes, white pepper and spearmint fade slowly, along with some drying malty notes. Long.
I tried this at Whisky Shine in Macau and I recently tried it again in more controlled circumstances. A great unctuous profile, rather old-school for its modest fruitiness and controlled oak. There may be a few bottles left in Japan or Macau.
Cragganmore 36 yo 1989 (51,8%, Decadent Drinks ‘Whiskyland’ 2025, refill hogshead, 158 btl.)
Nose: very, very similar. Perhaps a little more waxy still. It’s really centered around beehive notes, including honeycomb, mead, pollens and dried wildflowers. Polished oak again, along with drops of peanut oil and hay. This all takes away some of the fruitier notes, although there’s definitely melon, apple and marmalade left.
Mouth: same feeling: more mineral and more waxy, with slightly less fruity richness. Very oily, with mild peppery notes, light vanilla and a hint of clove. Then green tea and dried flowers again. Light hints of dried pear and yuzu, along with citrus zest. Faint leather in the end.
Finish: long, with more zesty hints, a few bitter herbs and waxy oak.
The previous Cragganmore from the WhiskySponge series was more unusual, this is a lot more classical. The great waxiness is the main asset here. I loved the extra fruity edge of the Kanpaikai release, but in reality they’re very close. Available from Decadent Drinks or partners like Royal Mile Whiskies. Score: 90/100