With its latest series The Zodiac, The Whisky Exchange is reaching for the stars. The range comprises four single cask whiskies representing Pisces, Aries, Taurus and Gemini. Two more collectible batches will follow, creating a full set of twelve bottlings.
I think it’s an interesting premise to match whisky to zodiac signs, even though I’m not a fan of astrology at all. Let’s just assess the whisky for what it is. There are two unpeated whiskies with a firm sherry influence, and two peated drams from milder casks.
Glenglassaugh 10 yo 2015 (55,4%, The Whisky Exchange ‘The Zodiac’ 2025, second-fill Oloroso hogshead #68, 241 btl.)
Nose: lots of moist raisins and baked apples with cinnamon dusting. Juicy and quite fruity. There’s also a hint of fresh oak shavings and cognac – a grape / peach combination with floral overtones. Then caramelized almond, a little strawberry candy and newish leather.
Mouth: quite sweet with a lot of toffee, rum soaked raisins and more of that strawberry candy feeling. Fresh oak again, including a little vanilla. Then some latte, cake and drops of orange liqueur. The apple / cinnamon combo is back as well. It gets nuttier and spicier in the end.
Finish: medium length, with some peppery heat, cinnamon and moderate wood char.
TWE claims it has a maritime edge, but I’m sure better choices could have been made to express Pisces that way. That said, if you’re in for a daily drinker with sherry sweetness, this deserves your attention. Available from The Whisky Exchange.
Dailuaine 5 yo 2020 (61%, The Whisky Exchange ‘The Zodiac’ 2025, first-fill Pedro Ximénez butt #312947, 489 btl.)
Nose: Werther’s Original and strawberry candy again, followed by lots of green apples and a lactic note (buttermilk). Quite a funky combination, still having a sense of new-make spirit. Then over to whipped vanilla butter and some lemon candy.
Mouth: red berries, raisins and fruitcake, along with black peppercorns and hints of cinnamon. Then apple compote, apple peelings and apple sauce. Hints of clove and a subtle wine-y note, as well as some oak char underneath.
Finish: not very long, with more apples, berries and slightly burnt caramel.
Can we double-check as I’m sure it said W.I.P. on the cask. Anyway I would have given this a bit more time to settle down. Really uncommon, and I’m afraid it doesn’t exactly work for me. Available from The Whisky Exchange. Score: 79/100
Ardmore 16 yo 2009 (55,4%, The Whisky Exchange ‘The Zodiac’ 2025, barrel #708023, 244 btl.)
Nose: typical hints of soot, freshly cut grass and ferns, burnt herbs and ashes. Also lime, green apple and green peppercorn, fresh barley and a hint of leather. Add some gentle brine and you get a fresh, inviting nose.
Mouth: oily, with a nice mix of smoke, brine and subtle lemon candy and barley sweetness. Then a faint rubbery note, along with grassy notes, a little kirschwasser and lemon oil. More green apple, light heather and hints of charcoal while it fades out.
Finish: rather long, with peat smoke, some chocolate notes and herbal elements.
TWE has a long track record of good Ardmore 2009 releases (see this or this among others). Today’s bottling is perfectly in line, offering a lot of drinking pleasure. Available from The Whisky Exchange. Score: 87/100
Bunnahabhain Staoisha 12 yo 2013 (55,4%, The Whisky Exchange ‘The Zodiac’ 2025, Oloroso hogshead #128, 335 btl.)
Nose: a step up in terms of peatiness. Hints of bacon on the barbecue, charcoal and chimney smoke, along with maritime hints of dried seaweed and oysters. Mulching leaves and roasted hazelnuts. Then a whiff of mackerel, moss and smoked almond.
Mouth: a rather sweet and fruity onset (green apple and lemon), quickly overtaken by more barbecue ashes, some tarry notes, black peppercorns and liquorice. Then brine, some gin botanicals and ginger, while there’s a mild biscuity sweetness in the background.
Finish: quite long, on peppermint, tarry smoke and a nice hint of salty lime.
Here the sherry is not prominent, so the result is a clean, balanced and lovable drop with a great intensity. Available from The Whisky Exchange. Score: 87/100