We have two more whiskies from the Connoisseurs Choice Heritage Collection, the latest (stunning) range from Gordon & MacPhail. The series comes with a revived old map label and consists of old single malts from very, very rare distilleries. Check out our review of the first three whiskies. Today we look at the Rosebank 1991 and Port Ellen 1980.
You can now register your interest to buy volume 1 – other volumes will follow later.
Rosebank 34 yo 1991 (53,1%, Gordon & MacPhail ‘Connoisseurs Choice Heritage Collection’ 2025, first-fill bourbon barrel)
Nose: much fruitier than I anticipated. Yellow fruit gums, peach candy, along with good vanilla and hints of coconut cream. Some mashed banana and passion fruit syrup. Then some chalky notes and gorse, vibrant mint and verbena, as well as some lime zest and the lightest perfumed marshmallow note. Works brilliantly.
Mouth: lemons and limes, with faint hints of pineapple underneath. Still a minty freshness, along with cedar wood and spiced bread. White pepper and cardamom. A little honey too, before it turns back towards zesty citrus and fresh herbs.
Finish: medium length, with warming fruits, just a hint of oak, lemon and grassy zests.
Classic Rosebank but slightly richer than the typical green-citric style (which I find a welcome deviation). I love the layered composition and the seductive profile.
Port Ellen 45 yo 1980 (57,6%, Gordon & MacPhail ‘Connoisseurs Choice Heritage Collection’ 2025, refill American oak hogshead)
Nose: it’s a sharper side of Port Ellen, with plenty of mineral notes, graphite and cement, a little petrol and garden herbs, as well as some toasted oak. Subtle baked fruits and waxy apple peelings in the distance. Then also vegetal oil, a very light balsamic edge and a muddy kind of smoke.
Mouth: plenty of power. Brine, grapefruits and lemons, along with seaweed and peppercorns. There’s also this vibrant mix of citrus and herbs, plain salt, a few green olives and a moderate phenolic note. Then some green leafy notes and faint hints of antiseptics.
Finish: long, with a very complete mix of herbs, subtle smoke and coastal power.
The 1980 vintage is fairly rare. I’d never have guessed it was so old either, since there’s so much coastal intensity. This seems to take away a bit of complexity and some waxy roundness that I adore to find in Port Ellen. Still a treat to try Port Ellen at this age. Score: 91/100