Single malt whisky - tasting notes

Let’s pair yesterday’s GlenDronach 1994 cask #3397 to a very similar cask, also bottled in Batch 10 of the single casks: GlenDronach 1994 cask #326.

It’s surprising that this cask only yielded 452 bottles, while #3397, also a PX puncheon, filled two months earlier, had an output of 644 bottles. Anyway puncheons can have different dimensions and GlenDronach isn’t always telling us the complete history of a cask. Maybe it’s a re-racked cask, as the cask numbers aren’t chronological either.

 

GlenDronach 1994 - pedro ximenez - cask #326GlenDronach 19 yo 1994
(53,5%, OB 2014, Pedro Ximénez puncheon #326, 452 btl.)

Nose: this one is slightly earthier and drier than cask #3397. It’s less straightforward and some of the brighter sour notes have been capped. More sandalwood this time. More leather, liquorice and tobacco as well. Feels slightly more classic in a way. Mouth: again a fairly dry attack, quite peppery. The obvious dried fruits are here, but it’s not as sweet as you may think from a cask that held PX. Blood oranges and heavy syrup. Then back to tobacco leaves, leather, espresso and very dark chocolate. Just a hint of sour rhubarb and lots of earthy notes underneath. Finish: long, earthy, almost smoky. Still notes of espresso and chocolate.

Better than the other 1994 cask, although I’m still missing a bit of bright fruitiness to get a real cracker. Good stuff nonetheless. Around € 140.

Score: 87/100


The latest batch of GlenDronach single casks, Batch 10 already, only includes 1990’s casks and one bottling from 2002. The wonderful 1970’s and sometimes very good 1980’s are gone?

We’ll focus on 1993 and 1994, vintages that have already proven their qualities. First up: GlenDronach 1994 – Pedro Ximénez puncheon #3397. I’ll compare it to the other 1994 P.X. cask tomorrow.

 

GlenDronach 1994 - pedro ximenez - cask #3397GlenDronach 19 yo 1994
(53,8%, OB 2014, Pedro Ximénez puncheon #3397, 644 btl.)

Nose: the very aromatic kind of sherry. Lots of dried fruits including raisins and figs, plenty of cinnamon. A few rummy notes, some vanilla (American oak?). Hints of polished oriental wood, before it becomes frankly oriental with herbs and spices like cardamom, but also hints of rosewater and patchouli. After a while, a slightly dirty edge comes out. Mouth: sweet dates and figs. Milk chocolate and nutty notes. A faint sulphury note in the background, not so great but not extremely distracting either. Fading towards herbal notes and a gingery heat. Finish: quite long, herbal and spicy. Some late orange zest and honey.

Not my favourite cask, I would say. It goes in different directions and they’re not equally nice. Some parts are really good though. Around € 140.

Score: 83/100


The Devil’s Casks is a series of small batch releases from Bowmore, matured exclusively in first fill sherry casks, quite unusual for Bowmore.

The first edition was already highly sought after in 2013 and now there is Bowmore Devil’s Cask II.

 

Bowmore Devil's Cask IIBowmore 10 yo ‘Devil’s Cask II’
(56,3%, OB 2014, first fill sherry)

Nose: deep, juicy sherry mixed with sweet peat. Blackcurrants, dates and dark chocolate. Strawberry candy. Flints. Some liquorice and walnuts. Hints of tar and coal smoke, as well as a faint hint of plum-lacquered ribs. The balance is just right. Mouth: pretty big smoke fills the palate, joined by a rich sweetness. Barbecued pineapple, red berries, chocolate cake with cherries. Really thick and tarry, with traces of earthy notes and peppercorn. A salty edge as well. Finish: really long, little fruity notes now, just sweet liquorice and smoke.

Bowmore is on a roll – almost all of their new products are good to very good. The Devil’s Cask is the total opposite of Bowmore Tempest, but both are very good at what they do. Around € 80.

Score: 88/100


This 16 years old Ben Nevis is the third release in the Rare Casks series from Abbey Whisky.

 

Ben Nevis 16yo 1997 - Abbey WhiskyBen Nevis 16yo 1997
(55%, Abbey Whisky ‘The Rare Casks’ 2013, sherry hogshead, 96 btl.)

Nose: deep, fruity sherry. Recurrant, blackberry jam, plum compote. Rum & raisins. Some oak varnish and leather. Chocolate chips. Nutmeg and cinnamon. After a while also a faint hint of matchsticks. Mouth: intense sherry again, with an oaky blast, dark fruit tea and liquorice. Balsamic syrup. Chocolate. Brighter notes of oranges and cinnamon buns as well. Enough jammy fruits to balance the darker, bitter side. Finish: long, bittersweet with spicy notes and forest fruits.

This is a true sherry bomb, a Karuizawa version of Ben Nevis. Quite massive. It could have been from a dozen other distilleries, but it’s a big dram nonetheless. Around € 80.

Score: 86/100


Kininvie whiskyIt’s not too long since we’ve tried Kininvie 1990 Batch 001, and here is Batch 2 already. It’s the first to be officially available in the UK and Europe. Kininvie 1990 Batch 002 comes from 20% sherry casks and 80% bourbon hogsheads.

Remember Kininvie lacked mash tuns back then, it received its mash from Balvenie so it was a set of stills rather than a proper distillery. Now it has been expanded so it can operate on its own.

Since a few weeks there’s also a Kininvie 17 Year Old, available in travel retail, also released in batches, with the same cask distribution and the same bottling strength.

 

Kininvie 23yo 1990 Batch 2Kininvie 23 yo 1990 (42,6%, OB 2014, hogsheads & sherry butts, 9686 btl, Batch 002, 35 cl.)

Nose: warm vanilla and almond cream. Sweet stone fruits, apples, peaches, orange juice and a hint of kiwi. Floral honey, golden syrup and a balanced dose of sweet oak and gentle spices. This profile is elegant and very similar to Batch 001, only a tad less spirity this time. Very good. Mouth: really sweet again, candied and creamy. Oranges and peaches. The oak begins to rise, alongside spices like ginger and nutmeg, as well as grapefruit zest. Becomes quite grainy and slightly harsh in the end (a blend-like touch that I also found in the first batch). Finish: medium long, with malty notes, apples and oak spices.

Batch 002 is better than Batch 001 and we can get it at a normal price, contrary to the previous batch which had to come from parallel import. In the end I still have some trouble with the grainy notes though. Around € 125.

Score: 84/100


Did you know Blair Athol was named Aldour first? I didn’t. The only official release is the 12yo Flora & Fauna. Luckily independent bottlers have a couple of casks lying around. Today: Blair Athol 1993 bottled by The First Editions.

 

 

Blair Athol 1993 - First EditionsBlair Athol 20 yo 1993 (57,8%, The First Editions 2013, sherry butt, 512 btl.)

Nose: nice start, fruity sherry (cherry, plums), rum & raisins and milk chocolate. Caramel. Becomes drier after a while, moving towards herbs and grasses, Seville oranges, some yeasty sharpness as well as a little wood glue. Mouth: great cherry notes (the kind of candy you used to hang around your ears as a kid). Some Heering. Plum jam and raisins. Hints of honey and tangerines. Quite sweet, although there is a herbal bitterness behind it. Finish: medium, more citrusy.

It’s funny how this one has such fruity notes despite (or alongside) the woody notes. Difficult to score, but I think it’s pleasantly unboring. Between € 100 and € 120, depending on the country apparently.

Score: 85/100


Where do they find all these Littlemill casks when we hadn’t seen a single bottle for years? Moreover, it seems they keep getting better. Today: Littlemill 1990 bottled by Whisky-Fässle.

 

 

Littlemill 1990 Whisky-FässleLittlemill 23 yo 1990
(51,2%, Whisky-Fässle 2014, hogshead)

Nose: after the initial grassy and surprisingly minty wave has passed, this one shows a very candied profile. Banana jellies, pink grapefruits, papaya. Less of the acidic notes (passion fruits) this time. Instead lots of milky vanilla, with some marzipan as well. Also lovely waxy notes, paraffin, almost the old Ben Nevis-style lipstick notes. After a while the mint / eucalyptus oil returns. What a great nose. Mouth: utterly fruity, very tropical, with lots of warming and exotic fruits. Papaya, guava, banana, pineapple and coconut. Mid-palate it gets a little greener, with some tobacco leaves, green tea and oak. Again really waxy. I can’t stop thinking of the unique Ben Nevis style, only much fruitier. Finish: long, with fruit tea and salty oak.

This pretty much blew me away, just like the sherry casks that were bottled in 2012. It’s such a wonderful whisky and this particular example is more complex and more unique than the already great bourbon casks of the last few months. Around € 135. Sold out.

Score: 92/100


Glen Flagler is one of the rarest names in the modern Scotch whisky history. It’s actually not a distillery but the name for a set of stills within the Moffat distillery complex, traditionally a grain whisky production site built by Inver House.

The oldest pair of stills produced grain whisky (Garnheath) and two pairs of pot stills produced malt whisky (under the names Glen Flagler, Killyloch and Islebrae, in order of peatiness). One pair of malt stills only worked from 1965 until 1970, the ones used for Glen Flagler kept running until 1985.

Since only a handful of expressions exist, Glen Flagler is a collectors whisky rather than a drinkers whisky.

Some bottles of Glen Flagler are ‘pure malts’, vatted or blended malts. This one says ‘all-malt Scotch’ which, frankly, could mean the same. Some would say we’re not necessarily trying a single malt. On the other hand, it probably indicates malt whisky made in different still sets within the same distillery. Sounds like a single malt to me.

There’s a similar label that says ‘5 years old’. The one we’re trying doesn’t have an age statement but it’s probably of a similar age. Also, this is the older version (pre-1979) with red print (instead of white) at the bottom.

 

 

Glen Flagler 'all malt' 1970'sGlen Flagler ‘all-malt’ (70° proof, OB pre-1979, black & red shield, 1 2/3 fl.oz.)

Nose: starts a little harsh with hints of hair spray, but it settles nicely. Lots of malty notes. Quite grassy and lemony, in the Lowlands tradition, but it also includes nice barley sugars and vanilla. Hints of pear eau-de-vie. Banana. Not too bad actually. Mouth: light and gentle, with a lot of citrus again, both zesty and candied notes. Grassy notes, hints of dried herbs. Hints of vanilla and toasted wood, but overall fairly thin. Light mocha. Finish: medium long, slightly grainy, not very interesting.

When compared to other similarly aged malts from the same era (say Glen Grant 5yo), it’s really not bad. Usually around € 200 in auctions, although some stores value it at € 600.

Score: 77/100


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Coming up

  • Cardhu 18 Year Old
  • Old Pulteney 1990 (lightly peated)
  • Blair Athol 1991 (Wemyss Malts)
  • Benromach Traditional

1635 notes by Ruben

WhiskyNotes - Ruben LuytenThis blog is my personal collection of impressions, written while searching for the ultimate single malt whisky.