A couple of weeks ago The Nectar started the distribution of several interesting cognac brands in Belgium, in a collaboration with Malternative Belgium. This means houses like François Voyer will reach a wider audience.
Voyer is deeply rooted in the Premier Cru de Cognac, the Grande Champagne. The family’s production can be traced back until 1811, originally in Fins Bois but now primarily in Grande Champagne. Today, the house is owned by cellar master Pierre Vaudon who is working his own 28 ha of vines and works with many vinegrowers in Grande Champagne. This means all major expressions are from this first cru. François Voyer uses Ugni Blanc grapes which are initally aged in Limousin casks after distillation before being aged further in older casks until the desired flavour profile is reached.
I will try virtually the entire range, starting with the VSOP and Napoleon, moving to XO and Extra, ending with the Hors d’Âge. In a next session I will tackle the 1993 vintage and a couple of specialties like the Personelle n°7 and Ancestral n°8. All of these expressions are available from The Nectar (B2B) or from B2C retailers like Broekmans and Malternative Belgium.
The VSOP contains spirits between 7 and 14 years of age, but there’s also some 1993 in the blend.
Cognac François Voyer VSOP – Grande Champagne (40%, OB +/- 2022)
Nose: fresh and citrusy, with plenty of lemons and orange flowers. Also whitecurrants and hints of pineapple. Unripe apricot appears later, alongside linden tea, vanilla cake and light butter pastry in the background.
Mouth: soft and smooth, with light vanilla sweetness, oranges (or maybe mandarin) and lime candy. Later some berry sweetness and almond comes out. Chamomile tea with dollops of honey and light oaky notes.
Finish: not too long, but clean, keeping the middle between fruity notes and caramelly sweetness.
Perhaps a little too focused on vanilla-laden wood flavours, but otherwise it’s hard to fault this VSOP. For the price it really offers a lot. Around € 55.
One step up is Napoléon, a blend of eaux-de-vies between 12 and 20 years of age.
Cognac François Voyer Napoléon – Grande Champagne (40%, OB +/- 2023)
Nose: more polished wood here, with a faint coppery note and blossomy notes of jasmine and rose petals. Peaches, hints of mango and orange come out, along with a hint of cherry. There’s a spicy edge which makes it more enticing than the VSOP.
Mouth: initially a darker profile than the VSOP, with blackcurrants, raspberry and melon, as well as light cinnamon and vanilla. Then hints of dried wildflowers. Ripe plums, hints of brown sugar (almost a Coca Cola note) and some clove as well.
Finish: still a bit short, but smooth and gentle, on sugared tea and mild spice.
This has more depth and richness than the VSOP. It avoids the simple easiness of the vanilla and replaces it with warmer, riper fruits and darker notes. For those of us who have a sweet tooth. Around € 70. Score: 84/100
Then we get to Voyer XO. There is an XO Grande Champagne 1er Cru, which we’re having today of around 15-25 years old. Then there’s also an XO Gold, which is a slightly older composition.
Cognac François Voyer XO – Grande Champagne (40%, OB +/- 2023)
Nose: quinces and peaches up front. Then baked apple, candied orange peels, golden raisins and the floral notes that are becoming a trademark element. Tropical fruits are starting to appear. Just whiffs of cocoa-dipped hazelnuts in the background.
Mouth: a nice oily texture and an enticing fruit salad, showing oranges and quinces but also apricots, subtle mango and papaya. Too bad the low ABV is holding it back a little. Light vanilla and subtle rancio elements come out as well.
Finish: medium length, on candied citrus peels, almonds and plums.
We’ve moved to the next level here, any spirity character is gone. The fruitiness is suddenly more exuberant as well, although 40% doesn’t allow this cognac to fully burst open. Maybe the Extra will change that. High value for money though: around € 90 in a standard bottle with cardboard box, but as often with cognac, there is also a decanter version for around € 130. Score: 86/100
François Voyer Extra adds 2% ABV but it is also made up of spirits between 32 and 40 years of age.
Cognac François Voyer Extra – Grande Champagne (42%, OB +/- 2023)
Nose: quite fragrant and forthcoming indeed, with just 2% extra. Nectarines, honey, raisins and orange peels. Pineapple too. A hint of cinnamon and dusty wood appears, with walnuts, cigar boxes and hints of clove.
Mouth: orchard fruits like plums, pears and apricots, mixed with vanilla. Some minty notes too. Then mid-palate it develops nectarines, pink grapefruits and tropical accents of mango and guava but also cinnamon, tobacco, a subtle musky note and hints of gingerbread. Nice rancio too.
Finish: medium length, with bright plummy notes, suble leathery notes and a hint of ginseng.
This shows a tropical fruitiness similar to the XO blend, but with some nice added punch. A great style: complex, delicate and balanced. Be sure to give it enough time in the glass and it will fold open nicely. Around € 200 (straight bottle) or € 260 in a carafe. Score: 88/100
The last one (for this session at least) is the Hors d’Age, a composition of spirits of 40 to 60 years old.
Cognac François Voyer Hors d’Âge – Grande Champagne (43%, OB +/- 2023)
Nose: brilliant fruit salad now. Mangoes, peaches, papayas, tangerines, bananas and rambutans. Then lovely beeswax, hints of peonies and fine minty notes. Meadow honey. A little verbena tea and ylang-ylang too. Light cinnamon and pepper in the background. Lovely.
Mouth: still quite exuberant with plenty of fruits, with peaches, bergamots, quinces and passion fruit syrup. Mid-palate it gets slightly drier, with hints of sandalwood and tobacco leaves. Cinnamon and herbal tea, as well as light vegetal hints, mint and touches of anise.
Finish: long, with the same fruity core, alongside sweetmint, leather and chestnut honey.
Very classy with loads of exotic fruits: wonderful. Can they do a version at 48% next time, pretty please? Throughout the range you get a beautiful balance, at any age and once you get to the XO gorgeous fruits and rancio appear, with the Hors d’Âge at the top. For now. Quite expensive: € 650 and more. Score: 91/100