Not long ago we reviewed a series of new bottlings from Milroy’s of Soho. The next batch is already here. This time it consists of four Vintage Reserve releases, including one Vintage Reserve Black, the most premium whiskies if you like.
Springbank 27 yo 1997 (50,3%, Milroy’s Vintage Reserve Black 2025, first-fill Port barrique #931)
Nose: lovely. The Port is not very Port-like, it could have been sherry. There’s nice tobacco and leather, along with blackberry jam, figs and stewed red apples. Then also slightly tropical notes, like roasted pineapple and banana, in the background. Obviously also the typical markers of old metal tools, candle wax, herbal tea and burnt firwood.
Mouth: more tobacco and herbs, as well as asubtle walnut bitterness. Then back to blackberries, sour cherries and raisins, some oriental spice and a hint of motor oil. Some black peppercorns and sandalwood, with glazed chestnuts and hints of liquorice. Some cocoa as well, although the whole gets thinner towards the end.
Finish: long, with a lightly tannic edge (wine cask after all), peppery oak, earthy smoke and hints of salted caramel.
This cracker reminded me of these sherry bottlings from Decadent Drinks. Great whisky, expressing its coastal provenance but also showing a nice fruitiness. Recommended, even for people who don’t generally like Port influence. Available from Milroy’s of Soho. Update: sold out after this review.
Tormore 31 yo 1992 (40,1%, Milroy’s of Soho Vintage Reserve 2024, hogshead #101180)
Nose: another ace. Sunflower oil, chamomile, dried hay. Then apple blossom, lemon balm, green melon and hints of chalk. Floral honey, library dust and whiffs of tomato stems. Some spearmint and chiffon leather, as well as soft touches of shoe polish. Really old-style
Mouth: more green fruits with tropical echoes. White grapes, gooseberries, pink grapefruit and guava. Pineapple comes later. Then it moves towards citrus zest, paraffin and hints of nutmeg and green tea. A subtle saltiness in the background. Hints of dried flowers too.
Finish: reasonably long given the low ABV. Back to chamomile and vegetal oils, along with some lime and leafy notes.
A fairly light and delicate whisky, but offering a lot of nice aromas and flavours. Fairly unmodern. A number of 1992s have hit the market in the past year or so, and they have all been pretty great. Available from Milroy’s. Score: 90/100
Allt-á-Bhainne 16 yo 2008 (64%, Milroy’s of Soho Vintage Reserve 2025, third-fill sherry butt #80900249)
Nose: straight into raisins and milk chocolate, along with a nice series of baking spice. Nutmeg, cinnamon and ginger. Rum and raisin ice cream, hints of chocolate cake and caramelized pecans. Then cherry liqueur and hints of glazed chestnut.
Mouth: a slightly armagnac-like arrival, all on prunes, raisins, ginger cake and cinnamon. Then some herbal extracts appear, along with gingerbread and sour berries, mixed with a sour woodiness and pink pepper. Some cold coffee in the end.
Finish: long, with plenty of tobacco and earthy wood spice. Even a little salty bouillon.
Third-fill, really? That must have been some sherry cask. A true sherry bomb that needs a few drops of water to really shine, but a very intense dram that’s perfect for the winter. Available from Milroy’s. Score: 87/100
Craigellachie 16 yo 2008 (66,7%, Milroy’s of Soho Vintage Reserve 2024, second-fill sherry butt #80900934)
Nose: equally sherried, but this time in a very meaty way, with a sulphuric edge. Roast chicken and rubber. Also burnt hints of crème brûlée and toasted nuts, along with cold espresso, liquorice, black peppercorns and cured meat. Just a hint of raspberry and polished wood underneath.
Mouth: still plenty of umami character. Charred meat, rather a lot of oaky punch and simply alcohol too. Then heavy treacle, bitter chocolate, cinnamon and nutmeg. Tobacco leaves aplenty.
Finish: long, with the same dark, leathery and savoury character.
Not my style: a meaty spirit, an overdose of sherry, an insane ABV and a lack of fruits. Fascinating but not something I would buy as a daily dram. I’d go for the cleaner Allt-á-Bhainne. Available from Milroy’s. Score: 82/100