Two cognac releases that just arrived on my desk…
The numbered Ancestral series from François Voyer holds some of the best cognac I’ve had. It is a range of very old assemblages from the historic reserves of the house. Now there’s a bit of a spin-off called Réserve Ancestrale, exclusively bottled for the 50th anniversary of Kirsch Import.
Cognac Voyer Réserve Ancestrale – Grande Champagne (49%, OB for Kirsch Import 2026, 90 btl.)
Nose: exactly. Lots of apricot jams, stewed pears and subtle figs. Dried mango and quince paste. Then waxed aromas, a few orange rinds and floral notes (vetiver?). Hints of mint leaves, light cedar wood. Very vibrant and expressive.
Mouth: start slightly resinous and mentholated. Mid-palate a tropical fruit wave appears, with mango, orange, pineapple and pink grapefruit. Bergamot, as well as more floral hints (jasmine). Drops of peach juice and soft hints of vanilla. Then a little pepper comes out, with more cedar.
Finish: long, staying fruity and floral, full of brightness and elegance.
A deep fruitiness, boosted by floral notes and a little spice. Always elegant and vibrant too. Very close to Ancestral n°9, I’d say, at a fraction of the price. Let’s hope we’ll see more of these releases in the future. Seen at DeinWhisky, and probably other shops soon.
Next up: the first cognac from The Rare Cask Company (the independent bottlers who also brought us Sherishòr. The range is called The Limited Cognac Collection. The ABV on the sample label was hardly readable – perhaps I should have tried them the other way round.
Cognac Mauxion 19.38 – Grande Champagne (43%, The Rare Cask Club 2026, 120 btl.)
Nose: starts with some coppery / metallic notes and perhaps a little verbena. Lighter than the Voyer, and less tropical. There are peaches, tangerines and grapes, as well as light plum jam and hints of candied oranges. Then a touch of marzipan and cinnamon. Very elegant, although a subtle caramelized note seems to cap the brightness a little.
Mouth: very round, indeed a tad flatter, which isn’t surprising given the age. Tangerines are back, along with apricots, red berries and plums. Some honeyed oriental pastry, with drops of Grand Marnier. Then light toffee, with cinnamon and candied ginger.
Finish: quite long and round, with a bittersweet fruitiness, hints of plum wine, just a little oak and a drop of peppermint oil.
Despite the high age there’s no sign over over-aging. A great first bottling. Overall everything is really balanced, just a little more smooth and soft-voiced. Score: 90/100