Another whisky matured in Port wood. This Ben Nevis 2002 was taken from warehouse n°2, where it matured (full-time) in a cask that previously held white port, which is quite rare for whisky.
Ben Nevis 10 yo 2002 (56,4%, OB 2013, Port pipe #334, 710 btl.)
Nose: pretty young spirit, with sweet apple juice, pine needles, and a bubblegum type of aroma. Some wet cardboard and hay. Lots of waxy notes, in between lipstick and lamp oil. In the background there’s a kind of sweet fruit syrup, orange squash, currants and marzipan. Some vanilla. Mouth: very fruity, honeyed start. Sweet whitecurrant jam, orange candy, maybe even pomegrenate? Underneath is some clear wood with plenty of spices (clove, ginger, pepper). Hints of tobacco and a slight floral bitterness. Finish: long, bittersweet. Cane sugar, honey and rose pepper.
Ben Nevis can be whacky – this one is. It’s an interesting experiment, not really comparable to other drams I can think of, but not something I would buy a full bottle of, especially at this price. From around € 160 in the UK up to € 230 from LMdW.
This Tomintoul 12 Year Old ‘Portwood finish’ is more or less the standard 10 Year Old which spent an extra 20 months on Port barrels. It says limited edition on the label but it has been around for almost five years, if I’m not mistaken.
Notice the new bottle design?
Tomintoul 12 yo ‘Portwood finish’
(46%, OB 2014)
Nose: starts a little restrained on sugared breakfast cereals, before showing strawberries and cream. Plum compote. Red berries and milk chocolate. Hints of toast. Not bad actually, sweet, fruity, fragrant and quite easy-going. Mouth: rather soft. Quite fat and creamy. Strawberry jam and pomegranate syrup. Sweetened cranberry juice. Cinnamon and raisins. Also a few peppery notes and muscovado sugar. Finish: a little short, but still rather fruity. In the very end also a drier, nutty note.
In general I’m not a big fan of these strawberry notes, they can be a little ‘synthetic’, but this is actually one of the nicer examples of Port finishing. Around € 40.
Nose: typical Clynelish waxiness and oiliness, paraffin, lemons and apple skin. Some oranges as well. Vanilla. Plenty of brine and quite some pepper as well. Hints of buttercups. Mouth: a slightly bittersweet profile, with sweet apples, lemonade and jellybeans. Then more crystallized grapefruit and orange zest. Underneath there’s always a slight peppery heat and an oaky kick. A little icing sugar. Some slightly fragrant notes as well, a kind of lemon soap but without the nasty soapiness (does that make sense?). Finish: long, bittersweet, with citrus zest and indeed hints of spiced chocolate.
A good Clynelish 1997 – we’ve had plenty of them and this one stood out a little. Lots of vanilla, spices and interesting variations on citrus. Around € 90.
Glengoyne 21 Year Old used to be the oldest expression in the core range of Glengoyne, until the 25 Year Old came along. It is matured in first-fill European oak sherry casks. With the recent rebranding of the bottles, it seems the price has gone up a bit, but it’s still pretty good value.
Glengoyne 21 yo ‘sherry matured’
(43%, OB 2013)
Nose: very lively and attractive. Richly sherried. Sour oranges. Red fruits (raspberries and redcurrants, candied apples) and cinnamon. A little leather and nuts. Vanilla cake and light cocoa. Touches of menthol as well. Balance is key. Mouth: starts fresh and slightly sour, with very nice sherry notes but also a certain lightness that works well. Raspberries again. Apples, oranges. It then grows creamier (butterscotch, biscuits). Finally a wave of toasted oak and spices (especially cloves) which brings a slightly tangy dryness to it. Finish: medium length, with cinnamon and green tea. Maybe a tad too dry now.
For such a large-scale release, Glengoyne 21 is very aromatic. Excellent balance and full of character. This could have been a cracker with a slightly higher ABV (like the 25) and a tamed oakiness towards the end. Around € 100 but prices seem to vary a lot.
Nose: this one tends to stay more on the grassy / mineral side. Some chalky notes and oak dust. Dried Mediterranean herbs. Grated coconut, grapefruit and green banana. Hints of paraffin and butter. Not as (tropically) fruity as some others. Mouth: bags of lemon and grapefruit, as well as some creamy banana. Lots of green tea. Fennel and aniseed. Hints of mint and grasses. Ginger. Finish: medium long, citrusy with a light bitterness of grapefruit zest.
Littlemills from this era are rarely a deception, but some versions are more tropically fruity than others. This is one of the grassier, more typically Lowlands versions if you like. Around € 160.
When you see a vintage like 1997, do you also think it’s a rather young whisky while it’s actually 17 years old already? It happens to me often…
In any case this is one of the younger vintage Tomatins I’ve had, a Tomatin 1997 bottled by Whisky-Fässle.
Tomatin 17 yo 1997
(48,3%, Whisky-Fässle 2014, hogshead)
Nose: a slightly green and gristy kind of Tomatin, close to the raw ingredients. Malty notes, sweet notes of apple, peach, melon and caramelized pumpkin. Not a young kind of sweetness though, and it’s balanced by soft earthy touches, a bit of liquorice and delicate smoke. A kind of dustiness / oiliness which works well too. Mouth: again an oily, old-style profile. A malty core, enriched with fruits… in a garage. Apple peelings, unripe pineapples, hints of candy sugar. Lemon zest, white pepper, liquorice again. Fruit pits. Delicate herbal touches. Finish: medium long, still fruity but the zesty and spicy notes become prominent.
A really pleasant, un-modern Tomatin, which is a nice surprise. Around € 85, still available from Whisky-Fässle.
In a couple of weeks, the brand-new Malt Whisky Yearbook 2015 will be available in most book stores and whisky shops. This yearly overview of the whisky industry is an essential read for dedicated whisky lovers.
Obviously it is still the most accurate list of new releases that appeared over the last year, an overview of distillery profiles and at least 200 pages of data and statistics. I’d say this is the reference part.
Like other years, there’s also a reading part with in-depth articles by renowned writers like Charlie McLean, Gavin D Smith, Ian Buxton, Dom Roskrow and Neil Ridley.
Here are the themes that are discussed this year:
The microcosmic view on maturation, investigating the physical, biological and chemical laws of ageing whisky, warehouse characteristics, etc.
Pimp my whisky, an article about serving trends (highballs, specific waters and other things that may be a little shocking to purists)
Proud to be Irish, a look into the Irish whiskey market and why it is the fastest growing category in the world.
The last decade in Scotch, an interesting view on a decade of roaring sales, premiumisation, super-distilleries, micro-distilleries, small batches and NAS expressions.
Whisky’s next decade, the crystal ball… with special attention to the growing wealth and the growing lack of aged whisky.
The tyranny of twelve, a comparison of views on age statements since the 1930s.
What’s another year, another article about age statements and NAS.
Malt Whisky Yearbook 2015 – 10th anniversary
This is the tenth release of the Malt Whisky Yearbook, so looking back on the last decade and looking forward to the next is an obvious choice. On top of this, it’s not a big surprise that age statements and the NAS trend are featured in several articles. The book provide a good insight into the problems of today’s whisky industry.
I will keep repeating this: if you’re interested in whisky, whatever your level of knowledge, this should be considered your yearly bible. It’s more up-to-date than any other book and it is fed by articles from the best writers. It’s an interesting era for whisky, and it shows.
The Malt Whisky Yearbook 2015 is sold through whisky shops all over Europe, distillery visitor centres or you can buy it online for £ 14.
The idea is beautiful and simple, yet no other distillery seems to have done it before: Tomatin prepared a batch of whisky distilled on the same day (January 15th 2002), initially matured for nine years in traditional ex-bourbon casks, and transferred in June 2011 to different kinds of first-fill sherry casks for another three years.
Four different kinds of sherry, hence the name of the range: Tomatin Cuatro. Two biologically aged sherries (Manzanilla and Fino) and two oxidatively aged sherries (Oloroso and the sweet Pedro Ximénez) were used. This is a wonderful occasion to witness the unique characteristics of each cask and see the effect on the identical base whisky. Educational whisky!
Being a sherry aficionado as well, I asked Tomatin for more details about the sherry, most importantly: are these American oak sherry casks, were all casks / wines supplied by the same bodega, and which bodega would that be? It could have had an extra educational value, but unfortunately this was considered commercially sensitive information…
A limited amount of 1500 bottles is available from each expression. They’re sold for around € 55 each. Too bad there’s no tasting box with 10-20 cl. versions, this would have been a real no-brainer.
Tomatin Cuatro 12 yo – Manzanilla (46%, OB 2014, 1500 btl.)
Nose: initially this came accross a little unfresh and porridgy, but it settled down nicely. A rather neutral Tomatin nose, with cereals, soft spices and waxy overtones. Yellow plums, pear and white grapes. Mouth: rather sweet (grapes, oranges, apples), hints of lemon cake, with a firm oaky spiciness (white pepper). Soft salty notes. Very smooth and enjoyable, the most natural of all? Finish: medium long, sweet (pastry-like) and peppery.
Tomatin Cuatro 12 yo – Fino (46%, OB 2014, 1500 btl.)
Nose: really similar, the same base notes of sugared cereals, but more biscuity notes (vanilla). This one seems a little dustier and sharper at the same time. Zesty lemon, a little almond paste and walnut. More wood in general. Mouth: less sweet and less fruity. More lemon, slightly more tannins as well. The white pepper has become a chilli. If I had to choose, I would say this is the more coastal overall. Finish: medium long, less smooth than the Manzanilla, with a slight graininess and more spices.
It may seem surprising that I think the Fino is more coastal than the Manzanilla (although Manzanilla wine is produced closer to the Ocean). However a young Manzanilla can be close to a white wine sometimes, which may impart a certain roundness, and the savouriness of a Fino can also be perceived as slightly salty.
In the end it’s obvious that both whiskies are very close together – I don’t think you could guess the sherry type when tasting them blind. Also the influence of the sherry is relatively subtle here: you’re still close to a regular bourbon-matured whisky.
Now on to the oxidative sherries:
Tomatin Cuatro 12 yo – Oloroso (46%, OB 2014)
Nose: a spicy profile rather than the dried fruits galore you may expect from Oloroso. Hints of Christmas cake and red plums. Bramble. Also a slight waxiness that reminds us of the Manzanilla version, mixed with rubbery notes. Mouth: really sweet, almond paste and plenty of Christmas cake now. Caramel and milk chocolate coated nuts. Growing more and more candied. Still hints of rubber. Finish: long, sweet, candied notes but also heavy spices from the wood.
Tomatin Cuatro 12 yo – Pedro Ximénez (46%, OB 2014)
Nose: a slightly more candied, more syrupy sherry influence. Molasses, red candy, blood orange, as well as a sweet liquorice theme. Plum pie. Big hints of cloves and herbal bitters. There’s a kind of vermouth or Manhattan-like element in this whisky, I like that. Mouth: still quite candied, although it’s on par with the Oloroso. Some fruit cake and chocolate but also spices like ginger, clove and pepper. A little fruit tea. Toffee and caramel underneath. Finish: long, heavy sweetness, dark chocolate and a slight oaky bitterness.
No surprises from these two whiskies: if you know these sherries, I’m sure you can deduct a lot of characteristics. Keep in mind though that most Olorosos are dry wines and PX is hugely sweet. This difference doesn’t really show in the whiskies (unless they’ve used sweet Oloroso – it does exist).
In general, a very interesting experiment, but I would have hoped for an even bigger difference between the four. Personally I was already convinced that the actual type of sherry is only of minor importance to the end result (oak type, biological / oxidative, treatment length… are more important) and the Tomatin Cuatro series underlines this.
Sure, there are differences between the four casks (especially between the first two and the last two), but there are also lots of similarities, which is surprising if you consider how far apart the actual wines are. I guess this comes down to the same wood and a relatively limited finishing period.
We hope the same experiment can be done with full-time maturation in the future, or maybe Tomatin kept back a couple of casks and they can release the same whisky with a lengthier finish? Anyway keep ‘em coming, these kinds of ideas!