The Glenrothes 1978 was the last release from the 1970’s vintages. In the past we’ve had vintages all years between 1970 and 1979 except for 1976. This 29 years old 1978 was chosen as the Best Speyside whisky in the 2008 World Whisky Awards.
(43%, OB 2008, 5600 btl.)
Nose: stewed fruits and apricot marmalade with dashes of honey. Less tropical than most 1968/69/70 Glenrothes, with much more beehive notes and a rather uncommon heathery note. Also intense spices (cinnamon, mint, aniseed, vanilla). Very light sherry influence (raisins, chocolate). Mouth: not the most powerful attack, but very balanced. We get sweet citrus fruits, plenty of honey again, some vanilla. This evolves into spicy fruit cake with a little ginger and liquorice. Is that a delicate whiff of smoke in the background? Finish: half sweet, half spicy. Quite long.
A sweet and spicy Speysider. When I opened this during a tasting with friends the other day, it was well received. Nonetheless most people prefered the Glenrothes 1970 by Dyncan Taylor. The 1978 is quite expensive: € 300 and more.
After the peated Kornog Taouarc’h Kentan and Kornog Taouarc’h Eilvet , let’s try the non-peated expression from the artisan distillery Glann Ar Mor in Bretagne, France. Contrary to the peated version, which uses malt from Scotland, this version uses French malt.
Taol Esa (which means “the try-out”) was first released in 2008, but I’ve tried the 2009 release. All of the Glann Ar Mor releases are limited and unfortunately hard to find.
Glann Ar Mor ‘Taol Esa’ – 1ãn Gwech (46%, OB 2009, second release December 09)
Nose: malty and very fruity, albeit a candied and slightly artificial kind of fruitiness (due to the young age I guess). Full of tinned pineapple, citrus, fragrant peaches and orange blossom. Guimauves. A lot of vanilla as well and hints of cinnamon and mint. Marzipan to round off, and a faint waxiness. Reminds me of the Our Angel bottling (Irish whiskey) Mouth: quite a sweet start again (banana, peach, apple) although it’s a little more spicy now (soft ginger, more cinnamon). Almonds. A little too grainy for my taste. Growing grassier towards the end. Finish: quite long, less sweet. Waxy and slightly resinous finale.
A curious young whisky which combines profiles of certain Irishwhiskey and some young Clynelish. Promising. Difficult to find.
This Glenglassaugh was distilled on the 5th of June 1967 and bottled on the same day in 1998. It was bottled by Signatory Vintage in the Silent Stills series. These bottles were nicely packaged with part of the barrel wood inside the box, as well as a miniature sampler.
As far as I know, there have been 5 batches of Silent Stills (1997 – 2001) and one batch for the USA. It’s a wonderful overview of distilleries that are sadly gone and the whole range is highly collectable. Note that Glenglassaugh was silent since 1986 but it has been revived in 2008.
This is another dram that I brought home from the great Lindores festival in Oostende. I had to fill samples because I had a cold and couldn’t taste anything at that moment.
Nose: an old, subtle nose. It balances between delicate fruity notes (citrus, gooseberries, tangerine), some hay and a faint minty / medicinal side. Some lemon balm. The fruitiness gets bigger with some hand warmth and mixes with a lovely dustiness – nice! Mouth: drier than expected, very much on grains and wood now, without many additional flavours that stand out. A bit of citrus zest. Faint vanilla. Getting grassier and slightly bitter / herbal over time. A tad waxy as well. Finish: citrus, grassy notes and a salty / coastal edge.
A delicate old Glenglassaugh. It owes the high score mostly to the wonderful nose.
Nose: fruity (peach, oranges) with a minty and leathery character. Hints of pollen and flowers. A little cardamom. Subtle Turkish delight. Not spectacular and maybe a little underpowered, but flawless. Mouth: sweet and fruity again. Grapefruit. Vanilla cake. Nutmeg. Getting drier over time and maybe slightly tannic. Finish: tannic and slightly bitterish. Medium long.
An enjoyable Tomatin with a slightly subdued fruitiness and a bitter tang.
This Ardbeg 1993 seems to be the first Ardbeg bottled by Duncan Taylor (let me know if you know another one).
Ardbeg 15 yo 1993 (58,9%, Duncan Taylor 2009, cask #1724, 292 btl.)
Nose: nice combo of heavy smoke notes and floral elements. Soot and coal with a few farmy notes (stronger when you add water). Heavy peat. Brunt heather. A few marine notes (brine, tarry rope). Rough like most official Ardbegs lately and a little mono-dimensional. Mouth: oily, very very peaty, dry and ashy. Sea brine and lemon. Rather grassy as well. An independent Supernova, so it seems. A little sweeter in the aftertaste, especially when you add water. Finish: long, peaty, fading on salty liquorice.
Intense Ardbeg. Recommended for those who liked the Supernova and are looking for a single cask variation on the theme. Don’t expect major complexity though. Around € 95 at the time. Now sold out.
Nikka Taketsuru is a vatted malt / blended malt whisky (it says “Pure Malt” on the label). It was elected best blended malt in the World Whisky Awards 2010 (for the third time in four years).
Nikka Taketsuru 21 yo (43%, OB)
Nose: rich pastry sweetness with a lot of apple / cinnamon notes. Quite some vanilla and oak (a little bourbonny in that respect and similar to wheat whiskey). White chocolate. Developing on floral notes. Mouth: totally not the expected sweetness, it starts on sour orange peel and quite a few tangy, salty notes. Then some liquorice and ginger mingled with plain wood. Gracious but slightly surprising after the nose. Finish: medium length, again some dry oak with minty notes.
A blended / vatted Nikka with an impressive nose and firm oak – a little too firm for me – on the palate.
To mark the start of a new decade, the House of Walker celebrates the life of its founder with the launch of The John Walker, a special version of the Blue label blend.
It contains malt and grain whiskies from 9 casks, with the intention to recreate the authentic flavours of a 19th Century blend in John Walker’s original style. The whisky has been taken from a range of distilleries, some of which are now closed.
A Baccarat crystal decanter and a 24 carat Gold plated neck underscore the exclusivity. Retail price: £ 2000. Sold by Harrods.