The Dalmore Mackenzie is a limited edition of 2400 bottles (+ 600 for travel retail) supporting the Clan Mackenzie Society. The bottle comes with a print of the Benjamin West painting “Fury of the Stag”, signed by John Mackenzie, the head of the Clan.
This famous Highland Clan owned The Dalmore for almost 100 years, and they are still connected through the family icon, the stag head, which The Dalmore uses to adorn their bottles. The partnership (which will not end after this special release) aims to raise funds to refurbish the Clan’s Castle Leod.
Dalmore Mackenzie 1992 (46%, OB 2010, port finish, 3000 btl.)
Nose: fragrant and fruity with redcurrant, cherry and fresh citrus (oranges, grapefruit). A hint of ginger. Underneath is a subtle aroma of mocha glaze and roasted nuts. Nice. Mouth: on the palate it has more body than on the nose, with lots of spices. It’s nuttier (almonds, hazelnut) and even slightly smoky. Nutmeg and ginger again. Still some fruity notes, but dried fruits this time (prunes). A tad winey. Hints of vanilla. Fades on liquorice. Finish: spicy with a return to candied oranges.
Dalmore Mackenzie is a good example of the Dalmore house style, while at the same time being lifted by the Port influence. Smooth and balanced, but a little expensive. Around € 140.
Lord Robertson is a former Nato Secretary General born on Islay. Ten years ago, when he visited the distillery, a cask of Ardbeg was laid down for his charity project Erskine. About two weeks ago it was bottled and made available in the online shop.
It’s a fairly standard 10 years old Ardbeg, but as usual Ardbeg could charge £ 220 and still sell out in five hours, simply because it’s a single cask. At least this time the earnings are donated to charity.
Ardbeg 10 yo 2000 “Lord Robertson” (53%, OB 2010, Committee release, cask #1217, 202 btl.)
Nose: the sweetness of white chocolate, vanilla and marzipan is very nice. It shows sweet peat, but it’s not very smoky. Some apples and cloves. Faint hints of antiseptics and wet wool. Toffee. Water brings out freshly laid tarmac and burnt tyres with a citrus overtone. Mouth: a nice pepper / peat / lime combo. Dark soot and tar but at the same time that sweet barley coating again. Chocolate and sugared almonds. I’m missing a bit of complexity in the middle: there’s black soot and white chocolate but not much in between, if you know what I mean. Finish: long and smoky with a hint of cocoa.
An interesting young Ardbeg with a fairly sweet profile. Nice enough as long as you don’t take into account the price.
Monkey Shoulder is a “triple malt”, a blended malt containing whisky from Glenfiddich, Balvenie and Kininvie (all three part of the same company). Kininvie is the newest distillery – it has been in production for over 10 years but we’ve never seen a single malt bottling.
Monkey Shoulder is said to be around 6 years old. It is released in batches which may differ slightly, but overall the profile should remain quite constant.
Monkey Shoulder (40%, OB 2008)
Nose: Fresh, very fruity, candied and slightly youngish. Notes of apple sweets and honey. Some apricot and banana. There’s a flowery side to it (violets maybe?). Mouth: suddenly it becomes clear that this is not a single malt. The attack is very weak and the first flavours are quite generic (grains and caramel). It misses some punch. Is that vanilla? Or mint maybe, in the end? Finish: rather short, grainy and nutty in the very end.
Monkey Shoulder is very smooth, easy-going but also quite harmless. Probably a great base for a Manhattan, but for € 30 there are better options in the single malt shelf.
Caperdonich from the 1970’s is relatively easy to find – and one the best price / quality whiskies if you ask me – but 1960’s Caperdonich is a bit less common nowadays.
Lonach is a series by Duncan Taylor that blends underproof casks (below 40% alcohol) with higher strength casks to make sure the result can still be called whisky. Although they have a lower strength, most of them are still very full and flavoursome.
Caperdonich 39 yo 1969 (42,2%, Duncan Taylor Lonach 2008)
Nose: instantly more herbal than I expected. The usual tropical fruits are certainly present (mango, pineapple), but they are mixed with sour apples and some mint. Big hints of chamomile. Heather honey. A little grapefruit. Vanilla. Will we ever be disappointed by an old Caperdonich? Mouth: hmmm, it’s very oaky although not too dry. Minty / woody / grassy, some nutmeg but not much more, I’m afraid. The fruit is reduced to a vague sweetness. Finish: not too long, slightly tannic, showing some aniseed.
This is not a bad malt, not at all, but because of the lower strength and the age, the oak is relatively loud. There’s better Caperdonich to be found. Around € 100 at the time but difficult to find now.
Renegade Rum is owned by Murray McDavid and part of the Bruichladdich group. They apply the same ACE concept (additional Cask Evolution) to their rums as to some whiskies. They ship the rum to Islay, finish it in wine casks and bottle it at Bruichladdich.
This 10 years old Brazilian rum was distilled at the colossal and modern Epris distillery near São Paolo, where they also distill for Bacardi.
Congratulations to Bruichladdich for the bottle design (again) and the nice metal name tag, although I must add that it’s almost impossible to pour a glass from this type of bottle without spilling (maybe this will be easier once the level starts to lower).
Nose: a mixture of dried fruits (plums) and fresher fruits (apricot, berries). Quite spicy. Some toffee. Hints of musty oak. Mouth: smooth, lots of berries again. Red wine gums. Caramel and brown sugar. Soft vanilla and spices. Finish: not too long. A very light hint of mint.
I don’t think this Brazilian rum was of special quality before being ACE’d by Renegade. The wine helped to add complexity in a nice way, but the end result is still not really exceptional (in the eyes of a rum novice). Around € 45.
The Balvenie Cuban Selection was a limited edition for the French market. It’s one of their rum finishes, in line with the former RumWood and GoldenCask releases.
Balvenie 14 yo ‘Cuban Selection’
(43%, OB 2009)
Nose: indeed, the rum notes are easily noticeable. Some sweet pear candy. Some nectarines and oranges. Trademark honey and hints of vanilla cake. Some peanut butter. Apples and cinnamon. Very round and feminine. Mouth: quite sweet again, with the honey coated fruits on the foreground and a few nutty notes in the back. Vanilla and cinnamon again. Butter toffee. Relatively soft and candied. Finish: medium length, warm and sweet.
An easy malt with a nice balance. Obviously finished, which adds a candied character and makes it perfect as an introduction to whisky, I would say. Around € 50.
Sherried Caol Ila can be great. Last year’s Feis Ile bottling – the first official single cask ever – was excellent. This new version is slightly younger but shares the same European oak maturation.
Caol Ila 10 yo 1999 (61,9%, OB 2010, Feis Ile, sherry cask #305646)
Nose: freshly toasted bread with salted butter. Roasted malt and peat smoke. Nutmeg. More maritime than last year: seaweed, tarry ropes, fishnets. Some iodine and bandages. Quite dry – the sherry is very shy until you add water, then it becomes much more fruity with cooked fruits (tangerine, pineapple). I find this one more typical (also less surprising) than its older brother, but it really unfolds with water. Mouth: in line with the nose, with added citrus sweetness. Strong peat with a thin chocolate coating. Growing saltier towards the end, on olive juice and cocoa. Finish: salty / sweet. Long and ashy.
This Caol Ila seems more powerful than the 2009 Feis Ile edition. Sharper and less sweet. Very good but I prefer last year’s cask. Original price: around € 90.
This 20 years old Littlemill 1990 is a sister cask of the earlier Littlemill 1990 cask #915. It was bottled by Malts of Scotland in the Clubs series to celebrate the 5th Anniversary of the Belgian Fulldram whisky club. On the back label, they explain that they’ve evolved from peat heads to advocates of fruity whisky.
Littlemill 20 yo 1990 (53,9%, Malts of Scotland ‘Clubs’ 2010 for Fulldram, cask #736, 183 btl.)
Nose: a little closed and grassy at first, but it grows fruitier by the minute. Honeydew melon, kiwi, green banana, lemon balm. Lots of pink grapefruit. Lovely hints of frangipane as well. Almond paste. Succade. A bit of freshly sawn wood and a few estery notes (bubblegum / nail polish remover) now and then. Really great. Compared to cask #915 a tad more fruit and slightly higher complexity. Mouth: very punchy and beautifully fruity, but soon evolving on bitter grapefruit again (still too overpowering for me, just like in the sister cask). Lemon zest, gooseberries, some vanilla. Pungeant ginger and nutmeg. A faint waxiness as well. Hints of cinnamon. Woody notes in the aftertaste. With water: almonds. Finish: rather long with spices from the oak and bittersweet citrus.
Another Littlemill with a great nose. It deserves a few points more than its sister cask because of the bigger fruit and the slightly higher complexity. It gets even better with a few drops of water. Congratulations to the Fulldram members for picking this cask – one of the best Lowland whiskies I’ve had.
Most bottles were bought by club members but a handful are still available from QV.ID (a club member’s shop). Priced € 86.