Here is the latest release from The Whisky Mercenary, a Ledaig 2005. His most heavily peated selection so far.
Ledaig 8 yo 2005
(51,3%, The Whisky Mercenary 2014)
Nose: big, sooty peat. Wet wool. Smoked sardines. A little tar and hints of petrol. A fierce peaty side, but it’s a sweet, buttery kind of peat, which makes it more rounded than some other Ledaigs. A hint of vanilla and pear, even white cherries and prune eau-de-vie. Mouth: creamy mouthfeel, very sweet and very peaty. Pears and melons. Sugared lemon juice and sweetened Lapsang tea. Soot and ashes, but the sweetness is bigger. Candied ginger and sweet liquorice candy. Finish: long, smoky, half sweet, half briny.
A nice Ledaig, surprisingly sweet and drinkable, even though it doesn’t compromise the intense peatiness. Around € 70, available in several Belgian / Dutch stores.
Old Pulteney 35 Year Old is a brand-new addition to the core range. It sits in between the 30 Year Old and the wonderful 40 Year Old. The spirit has been matured in ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks selected by distillery manager Malcolm Waring.
Old Pulteney presents itself as the ‘genuine maritime malt’ so it comes as no surprise that the 35 yo is housed in a wooden box with a porthole.
Old Pulteney 35 yo
(42,5%, OB 2014, 2700 btl.)
Nose: a gentle starter, pleasantly old-style, taking off on oily notes and waxed papers. A bit of mint and exotic spices. The it moves towards fruity notes (tangerines, whitecurrants, hints of pineapple). Also echoes of vanilla cake and floral honey, with some leathery undertones. Soft and subtle, you shouldn’t rush this one. Mouth: quite fruity, mainly on oranges (fresh and marmalade) and raisins. Even more leathery notes now. Hints of old wood, mint and eucalyptus. After a while almonds and walnuts, dipped in chocolate. Nutmeg and a subtle coastal edge. Finish: quite long, rather on the dry side now, with oak spices and a few tannins, although the juicy raisins are still present as well.
An excellent dram again. I prefer the even more exotic fruitiness of the 40yo but this is playing in the same league. Around € 650 – a lot of money but some other distilleries ask more for their 30yo.
Fettercairn Fior is the entry-level expression of this distillery. Fior is Gaelic for true or pure.
It’s made up mostly of 14-15 year old spirit, most of which is sherried, with about 15% of heavily peated five year old whisky from first-fill bourbon barrels.
Fettercairn Fior (42%, OB 2014)
Nose: very rich, with a wide range of aromas. Sweet oranges, some dried fruits from the sherry, as well as some milk chocolate. Toffee. Hints of sourish red berries (akin towards balsamic) and walnut skin. A veil of smoky notes, but the ‘heavily peated’ whisky seems absent on the nose. Mouth: starts on cocoa and espresso notes, with clearly defined peat now. Some all-spice as well (pepper / ginger mainly), lemon zest and soft mineral notes. Liquorice. Much courser than on the nose, and I have trouble with some fragrant touches and echoes of wet paper. Finish: medium long, dry, spicy and slightly bitter.
Based on the nose, I had high hopes, but there are a few less convincing elements on the palate. Not a bad entry-level malt though. Worth a try. Around € 40.
Nose: fresh, plenty of gooseberries, vanilla cake and apple. Also a nice lime / mango combination. Beehive notes (beeswax, honey) and subtle oak and leather. After a while more floral notes come out, as well as mint. Mouth: fairly soft attack, revolves more around spices, mainly ginger and aniseed, with a little vanilla and the fruity notes at medium intensity now. Some grassy notes. A slight metallic edge. Plenty of waxy notes again. Finish: not too long, with some coconut oil and ginger.
On the nose, this Glen Elgin is an impressive example of bourbon maturation. Fresh, fruity and aromatic. On the palate, as expected, the oak spices come out more. A nice dram. Around € 150.
Highland Journey is a brand-new blended malt from Hunter Laing & Co. It’s inspired by a train journey in the 1950’s, when Stewart Laing’s father took him to the Highlands to visit distilleries, igniting his passion for whisky.
Highland Journey includes only malt whiskies from Highland distilleries such as Blair Athol, Clynelish and Teaninich, matured in both bourbon and sherry casks.
Nose: starts a bit mashy / porridgy before sweeter notes appear. Toffee, light caramel and youngish Williams pear eau-de-vie. Apple pie and subtle grains. A bit of almond milk and hay. Mouth: creamy vanilla and apples alongside the malty, grainy notes. Light plums, some fudge and subtle spices. Subtle waxy notes. Not very sherried and none of the components stand out too much, we’re closer to a blend now. Finish: medium long, malty, a little mocha.
It may lack a bit of character to appeal to experienced malt drinkers, but nonetheless it’s a nice step up for blend drinkers. Around € 45. Arriving in stores as we speak.
This is the oldest GlenDronach in their 10th Batch of single cask releases. No 1970’s bottlings (not sure whether we can still expect some?), no 1980’s either (they were hardly available anyway). Let’s not moan about better times, we’ll just try GlenDronach 1990 cask #2970 - a P.X. puncheon.
GlenDronach 24 yo 1990
(51,3%, OB 2014, Pedro Ximénez puncheon #2970, 630 btl.)
Nose: a nice, deep fruitiness, reminding me of the best 1970’s casks. Poached pears, raspberry gums, quinces, alongside the obvious figs and raisins. Very jammy. There’s also a roasted / earthy note in the background, think coffee beans and wet leaves. Nice top notes of polished oak and leather. Mouth: sweet, but there’s more emphasis on the darker notes now – the fruits are on a second level. Walnuts, dark chocolate, toasted hazelnut. Hints of pipe tobacco. Burnt brown sugar. Sweet and sour. Some slightly bitter, herbal notes, cardamom and eucalyptus. Towards the end black cherries and forest fruits come out. Finish: long, still some toasted notes and Mon Cheri.
One of the better releases in this 10th Batch. I already liked sister cask #2966 and this one is just as complex. Around € 200.
Liquid Art is the Belgian label that released the Glen Elgin 1995 ‘Stag Beetle’. Now there’s a second bottling, a Bunnahabhain 1987 ‘The Osprey’. One more label will follow designed by local artist Raymond Minnen, then they introduce a new artist.
(51,3%, Liquid Art 2014, 115 btl.)
Nose: quite lovely. It’s fresh and tense, oily, with some brine and waxed papers. Also crushed mint leaves and a little linseed oil. Faint earthy notes. Fino cask? The best part however – and this grows over time – is the underlying fruitiness, a bright one, showing sourish apples and grapefruits but also more tropical-style fruits like melons and apricots. Just great. Mouth: rich and oily, again a perfect balance of coastalness and fruitiness. Salty notes, subtle pepper, then ripe apples, different berries, blackcurrant leaves and a bit of vanilla custard. Nectarine too. Impressive. Finish: medium long, sweet and fruity, with hints of mocha and very little oak.
A wonderful Bunna 1987, from the same family as the Bunna 1987 Mollusc & Medusa, I’d say. These guys know their whisky. Around € 150. Only around 25 bottles left, I’ve heard.
Have you noticed the diminishing amount of independent Laphroaig and the sudden rise of Ardmore? With the current high demand for whisky in general and the relatively limited supply of Islay whisky, heavily peated Ardmore is being pushed as the alternative for Laphroaig – both distilleries are owned by Beam / Suntory.
Nose: ashy and peaty, Islay-style indeed. Older Ardmore can have a tropical side to it – this one doesn’t, but it does show a fruity sweetness of peaches and pears. Some hay and walnut skin. Buttered toast. Not very complex but really enjoyable. Mouth: sharper now, with a sour / bitter attack and then heavy ashes. Rather dry and peppery. Burnt grass, soot, liquorice, grapefruit skin. A vague sweetness in the background, but otherwise it’s pretty assertive, not to say a little hardcore. Finish: long, dry, with an agave touch and hints of tar.
A straightforward, austere Ardmore that isn’t quite up there with Laphroaig, although the effort is worthwhile. Around € 85.